6 Volt coil issues

stewgee

stewgee

Member
Hey all. I'm new to the Forums so bear with me. I am having issues with the 6 volt starter coil on my 30 A. I pulled the engine, replaced all seals and gaskets and reinstalled it. It was starting and running fine before but was leaking oil profusely. Hence pulling the engine and resealing. The problem I'm having is I can't get a spark from the coil to the distributor. I replaced the original coil with a new NAPA 6 volt coil and still no spark. Installed a new wiring harness except for the wire from the generator cutout to the firewall junction box and from the starter to the junction box. I replaced these wires with 16 ga wire. I followed the wiring diagram and have unwired and rewired 3 times and still no coil spark. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Do NOT tighten the cable surround from the ignition into the distributor too much. Just a few turns, otherwise if in too far causes it to short out and will not allow for the spark.
 
Post #3...dead on
May also check for a short under you lower plate.
Have also seen where the wires behind the ignition switch have shorted on the gas tank when installed, I put rubber behind my switch to avoid that problem.
 
Thanks guys for all the suggestions of things to check. This is my first A and I'm trying to learn the ins and outs of the old thing. So what we're saying is the ignition, ie the points, condenser etc all have to be set right and functioning properly to get a spark from the coil. I'm used to working on newer (50's-80's) engines and I've always been able to pull the coil wire out of the distributor and get a spark to ground if the coil was good. It's been awhile but I think that I could.
 
On any engine without electronic ignition, if you are checking the spark by cranking over the engine, yes all the components need to be working.
 
One side of the coil should have power all the time, the other will be grounded only when the points are closed AND the ignition switch is in the ON position. First, with ignition switch off, use a voltmeter and check to make sure you have battery voltage on both sides of the coil. Then turn on ignition switch, if it be the popout style or the turn style. Then put a voltmeter on the distributor side of the coil and slowly, using the hand crank, turn the engine over. When the points close you should see the voltage drop to near zero. If not, then you most likely need to clean the points or have an ignition switch issue/armored cable.
 
#3 responder points out that when you install the distributer that the popout cable only gets screwed in far enough to contact the lower plate.
If you have snuged up too far the contact on the lower plate will ground out.
 
Sounds like I've got my work cut out for me this evening. Thanks for all your suggestions and wish me luck getting her started. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
 
I had similar problems with the coil. I agree with the others such as check the wire at the lower distributor plate but maybe also check the insulation on the wire in the conduit from the ignition to the distributor. Mine looked ok until i took it apart and found multiple spots on that wire had little insulation. The issue was, it would ground out on the conduit.
 
Just a quick update on the 6 volt coil issues on my 30 A. Thanks to all of you guys I got her running last night. I disassembled the distributor, checked and reset the points and checked all connections. Sure enough the ignition cable was screwed in too far into the distributor and was shorting out. Looking forward to getting her out of the shop and seeing how she runs down the road. Thanks everyone for the help
Stew
 
Installed a new wiring harness except for the wire from the generator cutout to the firewall junction box and from the starter to the junction box. I replaced these wires with 16 ga wire
Click to expand...

#16 wire is too small for this application, should be #12, the generator can put out up to 20 amps.
 
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