'57 312 Timing

[mytluv]

- The casting number on the intake manifold is: ECZ-9425-B
- And yes, I meant choke tube. I've already purchased the exact kit that you pictured.

Block casting is EDB 6015D?

 

[mytluv]

Are you certain that your timing light is accurate? If yours has the "dial back" knob it could be off a significant amount. Have you verified TDC position using a positive piston stop (like a bolt in #1 spark plug hole)? No guesswork allowed-like eyeballing the rocker arms or looking into the plug hole!
Is the distributor in good shape? (No sloppy points plate, no slop in shaft, no odd wear on points cam, does mechanical advance work (not seized, springs and weights intact))?
Is vacuum advance unit hooked to a ported vacuum source (not manifold vacuum)? Verify that the advance systems are working. With vacuum disconnected, does your timing light show a smooth, gradual increase in timing as RPM goes up? (Take note of the reading at 2,000 RPM.) With vacuum reconnected, timing should be the same at idle but higher at 2,000 RPM. Factory specs show mechanical advance should be 26 deg. at 4,000 RPM. Add the 6 deg. initial for 32 deg. total. With the vacuum connected it should be 45 deg. total.

- Yes, I'm sure the timing light is good. I have confirmed it on another car and it worked correctly.
- As I said in my original post I have verified TDC.
- Have performed a complete inspection of the distributor and confirmed that everything appears to correct. I have not put it on a Sun tester.
- The vacuum advance is connected to the correct port on the carb.
- Yes, the timing increases smoothly as the RPM are increased.
- The timing at ~750 RPM is well over 26 deg. So at 4,00 RPM it will significantly higher then 45 deg.

 

[40cpe]

Mytluv said he advanced the timing to 45 BTDC, not retarded to 45 ATDC.


Sal

My thinking was: it was running poorly BEFORE he advanced it about 45 degrees, so it must have been retarded before being advanced.

 

[dmsfrr]

... I have replaced the crankshaft damper pulley; which was off...
... Block casting is EDB 6015D? ...
... I've already purchased the exact kit that you pictured. ...

What does your crankshaft pulley look like? and the timing marks?
The damper ring on a T-Bird pulley can be loose and slip needing repair or replacement, But... the timing marks cannot change unless the pulley is disassembled by removing the 6 large rivets & reassembling it incorrectly. The timing marks are on the main body of the pulley, not the weight ring.

I'm not sure the EDB series engines were original to '57 T-Birds.
http://ford-y-block.com/Block%20identification.htm
http://www.y-block.info/casting/blocks.html

Did you get the choke tube punch tool also? I've heard it makes the removal & installation much easier.

 

[40 Deluxe]

- The vehicle is a '57 Thunderbird.
- I've only own the car since Nov'18 so I really can't speak to it's history.

If I adjust the timing by ear I can get the engine to run much better. But at that point the timing appears to be at ~45° advanced.

Other then double checking everything nothing new has been done. My next plain is to rebuild the carburetor. On a separate but possible related note the original choke tub in the intake manifold is completely rotted out. I've bypassed it for now with and installed a choke stove. I will be replacing the choke tub when I rebuild the carb.

I'd suggest you just focus on your timing problem first. The carburetor has nothing to do with your timing problem. Don't complicate things! Start with the basics. Have you verified that #1 piston is at top dead center when the timing marks are aligned at "0"? The pulley could be marked wrong, or the timing pointer could be in the wrong position.
To do a quick check of cam timing, put #1 piston on top dead center (as verified by using the positive piston stop method) and check the rocker arms. If they are both loose, you are at top dead center of the compression stroke. If both are tight, you are at top dead center of the exhaust stroke, which is what you want. At this point the exhaust valve is almost closed, and the intake is just starting to open. Rotate the crankshaft back and forth and watch the rockers. Rotate in the normal direction and the intake will continue to open and the exhaust finish closing. Rotate the other way (backwards) and the intake will close and the exhaust will open. Rock the crankshaft back and forth until the rockers are even with each other (you could lay a straightedge across the valve retainers). If the timing marks on the pulley are lined up (or very nearly so) the cam timing is OK.

 

[dmsfrr]

... I've only own the car since Nov'18 so I really can't speak to it's history. ...
... The issue with the timing existed prior to all of the work mentioned in my original post. ...

IF someone unfamiliar with them was working inside the engine before you got it,
and it hasn't run right since then,
and if the problem isn't the external timing marks (or else something relatively simple)

Here's a reason why 40 Deluxe is suggesting double checking the cam/valve & crankshaft timing.

The timing chain alignment procedure is unique to these Y-block engines.
The crank and cam gear marks do not line up with each other during installation.
Looking from the front, both marks are to the right with 12 pins of the chain between them.
(image below)