56' Power Seat Problem

5

56MAN

New member
My power seat just stopped working. When I try to raise or lower it I just get a clicking noise from the relay for that motor. When I try foreword or backward I get the same clicking noise from the relay for that motor. I removed both motors and bench tested them bypassing the relays and they worked fine. Should I assume that replacing the relays will fix the problem? I will appreciate any input. Thanks!!
 
Bypass the relay(s) - TESTING ONLY

Might also be the switch. Isolate each from the circuit briefly.

Do you have a multi-tester?
 
I did check the switch with a multi-tester and it is in working order. So the switch works, the motors work without the relays.
 
It really sounds like the relay, since you have tested the motors out of the car. I get the same issue, when the battery, is low on my 53' Merc, with factory 4 way seats. The relay will test fine, but they really need allot of power.
 
I have Merc Cruisers same issue with one of my windows, barely will move when idling but works much better on the highway when the generator is producing more volts. I already took the motor apart and cleaned it. I wonder where is a good source for (quality) relays?
 
Put the multi meter on and check the voltage in place under load. Probably need another person to do it. Sometimes things read ok with no load, but have enough internal resistant to not work under full load. I've had several failing batteries that read ok till you hit the starter and headlights. Not that I think that's your problem, but load does sometimes tell a different story.

If you can live with a non stock replacement.

https://www.classictbird.com/Relay-...placement-Order-2-Per-car/productinfo/14512B/
 
Take the cover off of the relay, by bending the tabs back, really carefully. If you break a few, the cover will still stay on. I usually spray a little WD-40 Contact Cleaner on the points, and it seams to do the trick. Considering the option (the cost of a new relay - ouch ouch ouch!). The old parts are really quite hardy, and in most cases with a little cleaning they can be put back into service.
 

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Merc Cruzer said:
Take the cover off of the relay, by bending the tabs back, really carefully. If you break a few, the cover will still stay on. I usually spray a little WD-40 Contact Cleaner on the points, and it seams to do the trick. Considering the option (the cost of a new relay - ouch ouch ouch!). The old parts are really quite hardy, and in most cases with a little cleaning they can be put back into service.
Click to expand...
this is good idea I have done the same on relays if the points are not to badly pitted in that case I clean with a piece of emory cloth (fine)then spray brake cleaner to remove residue
 
searching the part number there is less pricey:D one listed I say that tongue in cheek.at those prices I would look at modifying a horn relay
 
Well I’d go to 12 sys ,just change the bulbs ,all the motors will work fine with 12 V ,lower amperage ,since 6V motors have heavy wiring ,it will work fine I have 52 Fd all elec Mtrs and solenoids work great 15 yrs no problems !
 
Thankyou everybody for the great suggestions! I am new to this Forum as of a few days ago. I am impressed with the response I've received from my question. I will check the voltage under load and take relay cover off and clean contacts. I will report back with my results. Thanks again!!
 
I would think that a person willing to pay that price is involved in a complete restoration and has to have everything correct down to the last detail.

Repairing/restoring these cars depends entirely how one is going to use it.
 
I have an update on my power seats not working. I checked the voltage at each post of the switch under load and got 10 volts. I then took the relays apart and lightly cleaned the contact points, and sprayed them with electrical cleaner. I got the same results. the relays just click. I ordered 2 new relays (which are on back order) and after I get and install them I will post the results. Thanks again to all who have responded with your knowledge!
 
A 56 Ford/Merc should be 12 volts. 10 volts under load might not manage a seat relay, I've never checked. If you've got 12 volts at the switch, and 10 under load, try running a long wire from the battery to the relay and see if it closes and holds. If you're losing 2 volts (12 in 10 out) at the switch under load, you might be even lower at the relay. Old connections, etc. Doesn't take much loss and the relay will click but not hold.
 
Good advice.

It may also be the seat track is in a bind or worn and is loading the motor(s) Maybe have to disassemble and lubricate track(s).

Also a charging system check, battery check (min 12V) and a load draw test on the seat motors while installed in the track.
 
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