5 main, chev, crankModel A engine

Yep, as Al said..........I wonder if it will sound like a pair of John Deere tractors running together?:confused::D

It will be interesting..........as well as a lot of work. What is the stroke?

I really do not know how it will sound, that will be part of the fun. The new chev V8 trucks run on 4 when they are going easy. I do think it will idle a little strange

Tom It will be 1 inch less. 3 1/4, but I will be able to gain RPMS, with my cylinder head. It will be interesting to see how it does.If it does not work out I will only be out my work and a few dollars for material. But the fun and what I learn will be worth it.
 
George, I don't think you can get a "smooth" firing order using the V8 90 degree crank. Depending on how you set up the valve timing, a 720 degree firing cycle would go 180-90-180-270 or 180-270-180-90. You can't get 180 degrees of crankshaft rotation between each of the 4 cylinders in the firing cycle. Seems to me the engine would run ruff.

Yes the firing will not be smooth. Like Tom said a John Deere, Also Harleys.
I did have a Couple John Deere when I was farming years ago.I also put a Harley 45 engine in my Cushman When I was 16 years old. We will see
 
George very interesting project it doesn't matter that it can't be done only that you do it. All the fun is always what wasn't or could not work , was to make it yours good bad indifferent it's still a cool project . Keep the pictures rolling.
 
I know this is not for ever one, so don't look if you do not want to see a chev crank in a, A engine.

After a couple of years I'm back working on this engine. Today I started to make rods for this engine out of 7075 Alum. I made a wooden one first to make sure my math was right. If there is any interest I can post some pictures of making the rods along the way. This engine will be for my home built over head cylinder head.

Hey George,
Definite YES :) ! Lots of info and pictures on both rods and crankshaft fitment !!

That looks like A block. Any reason for using A , or was that what was available ?
 
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Hey George,
Definite YES :) ! Lots of info and pictures on both rods and crankshaft fitment !!

That looks like A block. Any reason for using A , or was that what was available ?

That is what I had. It seems funny but after restoring 25 Model A's and doing a few engines for friends, I have never work on or seen a B engine.
 
Just as a side note, Buick 231 1975-77 v-6, made an odd fire engine that was somewhat rough at idle but very smooth on the highway. At the same time but for a longer duration, they made the "same" engine an even fire version. REALLY ROUGH was when a tech put on the wrong dist. cap. I drove them both as a dealer mechanic and I preferred the odd one.
 
A friend of mine ran a 5 cyl. hemi V8 at the Lakes to get into a certain cubic inch class. He said it did idle oddly but was smooth under power and higher RPM. Your project is interesting but I think you'll find the torque way down because of the smaller cubic inches.
 
Day one. The picture of putting in wrist pin holes. Also the wooden rod that I made to make sure my math was right. Also to make sure it cleared every thing in side the engine. The alum rods will be a little different in shape.

I'd suggest holding the endmill in a collet, not a drill chuck, and raising the table up more.

Is 7075 a suitable application for engine temps? Are you going to shot peen it? Heat treat it?
 
I'd suggest holding the endmill in a collet, not a drill chuck, and raising the table up more.

Is 7075 a suitable application for engine temps? Are you going to shot peen it? Heat treat it?

Thanks for the advice, but I have been running a Mill for many years. The end mills only job is to open up the hole. By not using a collet I can change tools faster. The finish size will be done with a boring head.
 
That is what I had. It seems funny but after restoring 25 Model A's and doing a few engines for friends, I have never work on or seen a B engine.

Hey George,
Wow, 'never' worked or seen B :eek: ! I'd have lost $ betting against that .
BTW..When you get time to add notes/information (tutorial) on how you add the extra two mains to a stock block:) !
 
Hey George,
Wow, 'never' worked or seen B :eek: ! I'd have lost $ betting against that .
BTW..When you get time to add notes/information (tutorial) on how you add the extra two mains to a stock block:) !

Well I just cut out some pieces of metal and pinned and welded them in. Then made new main caps for a 5 mains. I looked for some pictures of the block when I was doing it. But could not find any.

Got the pictures for today but can not get them to up load.
 
I finished the bore in piston pin end to day. Plus I put the face plate on the lathe with the fixture for boring the big end of the rod. But first have cut the bottom of the rod at the center line of the bore in the big end. Then drill the bolt holes. Will drill the bolt holes first. Then bolt it back together.

The 4 picture is the boring head for the finish bore.
 

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It looks like the center lines of #2 and #3 journals may be offset from the bores? I'm curious how you will handle that. Ron W

It is a V8 crank so two were together on one journal. IT Works out 1and2 go to the front of the journal and 3 and 4 go to the back of the journal. Will have to make some spacers for there.
 
It's a very exciting project! I wish you the best with it. It seems there is no limit to what we will do to use the model A block. Ron W
 
George do you still have the engine with the 455 head ?

No I sold that to a guy on ham a couple of years a go. I also had one with a 1928 chev head on a engine in a 1928 Ford pickup. I sold the truck with that on it.

Just have the over head that I made, which will go on this engine,
 
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