5 main, chev, crankModel A engine

George Miller said:
Well I'm not sure how much weight you would save, depending on what kind of steel. You would have to make the alum bigger to have the same strength. 7075 is about 70,000 for tensile strength. If I was racing I would want steel like 4340.

Like most metals there are lots of grades and types of steel and alum.
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'if was racing' ?
Hey George,
I was thinking that you were using for 'hill climbing'/ racing, no:) ?
 
You are really doing a fantastic job on the whole project. How many hours do you have in the machining of the rods. They are a thing of beauty from the pictures that you have shown us . How much time do you figure you will have in the whole engine project. I appalaud you on the job you are doing. . And I hope that the running engine will be as fantastic as your work. Congratulation on a superb job.
 
Thanks for the good words. How many hours. I did not keep up with the hours, but I have about 30 hours in the rods. But with a CNC mill it would be much faster. I did it the way we would have done it 40 years ago.

The engine is just some thing I wanted to do. I think it will work well with my home built cylinder head. But it will be different. Like Tom says it will sound like two two cylinder John Deere's running. They were odd fire also.
 
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hardtimes said:
Hey George,
Wow, nice product :) ! Do you know expansion/grow rate of these rods , compared to Ford rods ? What bolts/nuts (chev?) are you using to fasten rod caps ?
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Do you know the grow rate of these rods. No but it will be more than steel or chev rods.

What bolts and nuts. 3/8 chev rod bolts. The ones for the big journal chev.

A little better picture of the rods, maybe.
 

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Lets try again some may be repeat.

Still have a little touch up left to do plus putting in the bearing tab slot.
 

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Looks like the relief for the head of the bolts leaves a small cross section? I hope that won't be too weak? Ron W
 
I have a set of model A REM Al rods and they are heavier than stock model A rods. Bob told me that he used the same blank for his rods and just bored the B's larger. When the A rods didn't sell he just bored them out to B size. I'm thinking of boring my set out to B.
 
Ron W said:
Looks like the relief for the head of the bolts leaves a small cross section? I hope that won't be too weak? Ron W
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You are right Ron you have a good eye. But I only have so much room to get by the camshaft. That is the weak point of the rod. But the real strain is on the down stroke when it fires. I did put a radius in there which will help. It is the same amount as a stock Chev rod so maybe it will be ok.
 
Decide to take a little more weigh off the rods.
 

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Originally Posted by Herb Kephart
George

VERY interested in this--and have a couple questions.
You moved the main bearing stud centers out to an area where the rib in the block is thin--what did you do about this? Also what do you intend to do about the misalignment of the lifter holes with the respective cam lobe?
Also, I wonder why you bored the big end of the rods on your lathe? I always did it in the mill, to insure parallelism of the hole, with the just bored wrist pin hole--neglecting inevitable table rock.
Wondering also if you did the line boring your self? I have line bored the mains on both Ford and Chevy fours on the Bridgeport with a truly Mickey Mouse rig--but the reground crank spins in the inset bearings--so I was happy. The table is longer than your Moog, admit ably. Looked for a photo of this, but I guess that it was on film, and now is lost in a one of many boxes.

Herb Kephart
The miss alignment of lifter bores will be fixed with new lifter boss made in one long bar. Then attached to the block.
Here is a picture of the start of long boss bar.
 

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Hey George,
Hm, I can not see small pic details...even with my CVS glasses. Your pics will not enlarge as per usual. Maybe just me/my beloved puter..ha !
Thanks for sharing your skills/talent/pictures.
 
hardtimes said:
Hey George,
Hm, I can not see small pic details...even with my CVS glasses. Your pics will not enlarge as per usual. Maybe just me/my beloved puter..ha !
Thanks for sharing your skills/talent/pictures.
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Sorry but I'm not a computer guy. I have no clue what to do.
But it is just a flat bar with bores for the lifters
that runs the length of the inside of the engine.
When I get it done I will take some better pictures, maybe.
 
Hardtimes I hope you can see this. It is the lifter boss in the block. also the the 5 mains in the model A block.

Lifter boss is made for hydraulic lifters, because the cam is for hydraulic lifters.
 

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George Miller said:
Hardtimes I hope you can see this. It is the lifter boss in the block. also the the 5 mains in the model A block.

Lifter boss is made for hydraulic lifters, because the cam is for hydraulic lifters.
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Hey George,
Yes, nice pictures, thanks :) ! You are only limited in your creativity, by your imagination it seems ! How are the extra two 'mains' held to block..welding/pinning/JB ..what ? Hydraulic lifters ? How are these lifters oiled/pumped up/plumbed :confused:
 
George I Believe I see the oil pump is mounted at the rear of the block
how is that driven ? and are you going for dry sump ?
as the cam is chain driven how are you driving the distributor or mag
 
hardtimes said:
Hey George,
Yes, nice pictures, thanks :) ! You are only limited in your creativity, by your imagination it seems ! How are the extra two 'mains' held to block..welding/pinning/JB ..what ? Hydraulic lifters ? How are these lifters oiled/pumped up/plumbed :confused:
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The two mains are held in place with nickel rod and dowel pins.
the lifters are oiled through the the boss. It is two pieces pined together. I milled a oil path in them before they were put together.It it has pipe thread that will have a oil line going to the oil pump.
 
colin1928 said:
George I Believe I see the oil pump is mounted at the rear of the block
how is that driven ? and are you going for dry sump ?
as the cam is chain driven how are you driving the distributor or mag
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The pump is driven from the gear on the end of the cam that use to drive the dist. and pump.

The distributor is driven from the front of the cam. It will be mounted to the front timing cover.

I plan on having the oil in the pan.
 
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