5 main, chev, crankModel A engine

colin1928 said:
George I Believe I see the oil pump is mounted at the rear of the block
how is that driven ? and are you going for dry sump ?
as the cam is chain driven how are you driving the distributor or mag
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This is not the right dist. But you can see how it works. The part that turns the dist. is on the front of the pan rail. It bolts to front of the cam.

I will have to use a V8 dist because of the uneven firing order.
 

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Worked a little more on the engine to day. I'm going to use floating wrist pins with chev pistons. So today I put retainer ring groves in the pistons for the wrist pin retainer rings..
 
George Miller said:
Worked a little more on the engine to day. I'm going to use floating wrist pins with chev pistons. So today I put retainer ring groves in the pistons for the wrist pin retainer rings..
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picture of expanding arbor and piston getting the grove.
 

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Today's pictures.
Shortening the wrist pins so they will fit in-between the locks.
I have one picture showing the grooves for the retainer pins, but it is not to clear.

Next is to make spacers to locate the rod in the center of piston.
 

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To day I made some rod spacers for the crankshaft to put the rod in the right location on the crank, because it was made for two rods on each throw.

When I get ever think made and fit, I will have to take it all apart and clean it good.
 

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Trial fit of over head cylinder head on 5 main block.
 

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George Miller said:
I know this is not for ever one, so don't look if you do not want to see a chev crank in a, A engine.

After a couple of years I'm back working on this engine. Today I started to make rods for this engine out of 7075 Alum. I made a wooden one first to make sure my math was right. If there is any interest I can post some pictures of making the rods along the way. This engine will be for my home built over head cylinder head.
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Cool George you just have too much time on your hands!!
 
George Miller said:
Trial fit of over head cylinder head on 5 main block.
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Hey George,
Wow, that is awesome work :) !!
Looks to be coming together just as you described previously.
I can just see some guy, in the future, finding this engine somewhere and opening it up and saying...whattheheck :D ! Now I get the idea of maybe what guys were trying out (experimenting), when I see some of the stuff that I've seen in engines that I've opened. Nothing as creative/rad as you and your innovations though ! Sure hope that you can/will post a video of first start up and run of this engine.
 
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hardtimes said:
Hey George,
Wow, that is awesome work :) !!
Looks to be coming together just as you described previously.
I can just see some guy, in the future, finding this engine somewhere and opening it up and saying...whattheheck :D ! Now I get the idea of maybe what guys were trying out (experimenting), when I see some of the stuff that I've seen in engines that I've opened. Nothing as creative/rad as you and your innovations though ! Sure hope that you can/will post a video of first start up and run of this engine.
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Yes I will post a picture, but no way to get the sound, which will be different.
Maybe in a month or two.
 
Putting in main bearing oil lines.
 

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Hey George, if the hydraulic lifters don't work out you can use solid lifters and adjust
the valves for .006 thousands. We used to do it all the time on chevy V-8's with hydraulic
cams to cheat the rules.
Also how are you going about balancing the crankshaft. It seems like your going to have
to balance it like a V-8 using bobweights in which case your going to have to cut down
the counter weights quite a bit to make up the the loss of weight of the other rod and piston. Maybe the spacer should be made bigger and of steel. My 2 cents.
 
Dodge said:
Hey George, if the hydraulic lifters don't work out you can use solid lifters and adjust
the valves for .006 thousands. We used to do it all the time on chevy V-8's with hydraulic
cams to cheat the rules.
Also how are you going about balancing the crankshaft. It seems like your going to have
to balance it like a V-8 using bobweights in which case your going to have to cut down
the counter weights quite a bit to make up the the loss of weight of the other rod and piston. Maybe the spacer should be made bigger and of steel. My 2 cents.
Click to expand...

Good questions I have been thinking about that, but have not come up with a answer yet.
 
George,
Great! Can't wait to hear about the engine. Are you and Marilyn coming to the Grassy Creek Parade? Hope so.

Thanks, Hugh
 
hardtimes said:
Hey George,
Are these oil lines steel or copper? And, can you show more of how those lines connect (solder/braze) and where routed :confused:
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oil lines are steel. copper would be easer but it work hardens and breaks. IMH opinion it is not good to use inside a engine or for brake lines.

I will try to get some better pictures when they are connected.
But they will run through main bearing support boss in to the lifter boss block, that I made for the lifters. I drilled a hole in the main bearing supports that has a champer . Then I flare the end of the line that fits in the champer. The insert bearning will keep the line down in the champer. just as clear mud right.
 
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