41 Ford engine help

37 Cab said:
A fuel pump that looks new does not make it a good one. Sounds like you have very low fuel pressure. Blockage or leak in line from tank bad pump... Need to check fuel pressure for 2-3 psi.
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I am waiting on a gauge to check the fuel but I tried two things I ran a fuel line from a gas can and placed it higher then the carb. The car idled but would not accelerate or rev up. I also tried accelerating and pouring a little gas from a squirt bottle into the carb and it would not accelerate it just sounds like it is missing.
 
Well.... it sounds like more fuel isn't the issue. Granted you could drown a carb but a drizzle wouldn't do that. You could still have fuel issues down the road, but if the butterflies are working and you bottle feed it, it should rev up. Takes more gas then you would think full throttle btw.

So... Have you done a compression check? Plug wires in the right order? Guess it could be a bad condenser at this point also... are these tests in the garage only?.


Start with the free/cheap checks. Plugwires, compression check, condenser.


Everything needs to work in concert. One thing bad and it makes everything "sound" bad. If everything is on it's so sweet.

I had an issue like this with my 38 after it was rebuild. In the garage it would purr at idle and rev. Once I drove it underload it fell on it's face. Turned out to be sticky valves.



.
 
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You didn't say, but I assume the carburetor is a 94. Did you check the power valve? As the previous owner had fuel issues, he may have disabled the power valve, which would explain the starving during acceleration tries. Obtain a good functioning power valve (economizer valve), and try again. Also check the main jets to be clear, and of a single carb usable size, .050 or .051.
 
This may be basic, but I have to ask : Are you manually opening the throttle when feeding it gas from the bottle? More gas alone won't do it; you need additional air as well.
 
tubman said:
This may be basic, but I have to ask : Are you manually opening the throttle when feeding it gas from the bottle? More gas alone won't do it; you need additional air as well.
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Yes I am manually opening the throttle when feeding the gas and there is no change. It doesn't seem to matter if I add the gas or not It still runs the same.
 
ford38v8 said:
You didn't say, but I assume the carburetor is a 94. Did you check the power valve? As the previous owner had fuel issues, he may have disabled the power valve, which would explain the starving during acceleration tries. Obtain a good functioning power valve (economizer valve), and try again. Also check the main jets to be clear, and of a single carb usable size, .050 or .051.
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It is a 94. The accelerator pump was not working and so I rebuilt the carb tonight and did replace the power valve. I will put it back on the car later today. Fingers crossed.
 
Tinker said:
Well.... it sounds like more fuel isn't the issue. Granted you could drown a carb but a drizzle wouldn't do that. You could still have fuel issues down the road, but if the butterflies are working and you bottle feed it, it should rev up. Takes more gas then you would think full throttle btw.

So... Have you done a compression check? Plug wires in the right order? Guess it could be a bad condenser at this point also... are these tests in the garage only?.


Start with the free/cheap checks. Plugwires, compression check, condenser.



Everything needs to work in concert. One thing bad and it makes everything "sound" bad. If everything is on it's so sweet.

I had an issue like this with my 38 after it was rebuild. In the garage it would purr at idle and rev. Once I drove it underload it fell on it's face. Turned out to be sticky valves.



.
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I will start with the above next suggestions next. Thanks for your help.
 
Make sure you have a good blue spark. I had the same trouble exactly. Had nice yellow spark. Adding gas kept putting out the spark . New condenser and away it went. On another flatty that did the same thing had a muffler plugged with acorns and grain seeds. I cut the muffler off and wow away it went.
 
jhljr44@yahoo.com said:
Make sure you have a good blue spark. I had the same trouble exactly. Had nice yellow spark. Adding gas kept putting out the spark . New condenser and away it went. On another flatty that did the same thing had a muffler plugged with acorns and grain seeds. I cut the muffler off and wow away it went.
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Thank you I will check that.
 
An update!!!


I have found that the fuel pump is no good and was leaking fuel into the oil. I have ordered a new pump that will be here just before Thanksgiving. Thank you for all your input and help.
 
Trailerparkhardware said:
An update!!!


I have found that the fuel pump is no good and was leaking fuel into the oil. I have ordered a new pump that will be here just before Thanksgiving. Thank you for all your input and help.
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That's why I suggest that as one of the first checks, fuel in the oil can thin it to the point that it can damage bearings.
 
not a common problem but possibly plugged exhaust you just never know what could be in there especially if it’s been sitting a while keep us posted
 
Just in case the fuel pump does not correct the problem. Do you have a test meter? If not, go buy one. They are cheap and you simply must have one and learn how to use it.
Readings should be about: Battery 6.3V, ignition switch 6.37V, cold resistor 2.5 OHMS
to resistor 6.15V voltage after resistor 2.9V voltage at coil 2.5V
AMPS to resistor (not running) 4.5A (running) 3.09A
at coil at idle 3.02A / 3.3V
Voltage setting of voltage regulator (B terminal) running engine at 2000RPM should be 7.3-7.5V
Hope the new pump does the trick for you.
Deadhair
 
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JSeery said:
That's why I suggest that as one of the first checks, fuel in the oil can thin it to the point that it can damage bearings.
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Thank you. That is why I checked it. The pump arrived today (early) so tomorrow I will install and see where I am at. Thank you for your help and advise.
 
4t7heaven said:
Just in case the fuel pump does not correct the problem. Do you have a test meter? If not, go buy one. They are cheap and you simply must have one and learn how to use it.
Readings should be about: Battery 6.3V, ignition switch 6.37V, cold resistor 2.5 OHMS
to resistor 6.15V voltage after resistor 2.9V voltage at coil 2.5V
AMPS to resistor (not running) 4.5A (running) 3.09A
at coil at idle 3.02A / 3.3V
Voltage setting of voltage regulator (B terminal) running engine at 2000RPM should be 7.3-7.5V
Hope the new pump does the trick for you.
Deadhair
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Thank you for the great information. I do have a test meter. I will be installing the pump tomorrow and seeing where I am at. Even if it fixes the problem. I will still use the meter to test what you have shared. Thank you again for the help and information.
 
Couple of additional comments on doing electrical test. Only keep the ignition turned on long enough to take a reading if the engine is not running. Also with the engine is not running the readings at the coil is different between when the points are open and when there closed. Current only flows through the ignition circuit when the points are closed.
 
JSeery said:
Couple of additional comments on doing electrical test. Only keep the ignition turned on long enough to take a reading if the engine is not running. Also with the engine is not running the readings at the coil is different between when the points are open and when there closed. Current only flows through the ignition circuit when the points are closed.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the additional information.
 
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