40 Ford Juice brake performance

[frnkeore]

I haven't done a brake job, on Lockheed brakes, since I was a mechanic in the late '60's but, I was right about the anchor adjustment.

That needs to be done first, before you do the regular brake adjustment, other wise the bottom of the shoe, won't make full (or any) contact with the drum.

This is from my '46 Motors Manual:

 

[randy993]

I'm not sure if the pedal is adjusted correctly or not. It has about 2" of travel before engaging, then holds solid. I did a seach and couldn't find a procedure for adjusting the pedal.

 

[randy993]

I went through the brake adjusting procedure last week and everything kind of went back to where i started when it was all said and done. Shoes and drums looked fine, no abnormal wear. Keep in mind that my truck was restored and then stored for 30 years. It was stored in a climate controlled garage and I was amazed at how good it survived. I flushed the brake system out good before driving it any. It looks as though all of the brake components and MC was replaced when it was restored, 30 years ago.

 

[Mart]

It might improve with driving, as things bed in. Drive, adjust, drive, adjust. Make 'em work.

I used emery cloth inside the drum to (sort of) arc the shoes to the drum when I did the brakes on my 41 pickup. They work pretty well.

I have never tried to lock my brakes up, but I do drive in traffic often and they are good enough to give me a feeling of confidence when using them.

Mart.

 

[randy993]

I agree Mart. I've only driven it a little around town and never will be hitting the interstate in it. I've spent the last couple of weeks going over the wiring. I had signal issues. I've considered updating to the Bendix style. I feel safe in it on the roads and the speeds that I drive.
I have a clymer manual that went through the adjustment procedure and then discribing how they should be able to lock up all four wheels.
Just saying. I didn't mean to hijack the thread, but it was relative to my situation. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[40 Deluxe]

The elephant In the room hasn't been addressed. That is, will your 'trick of the
week' Mustang master cylinder stop you if you blow a line? On a OEM setup, the pedal will go almost to the floor if a line blows. This normal. Has your pickup been tested to see if it will stop with a front bleeder screw open? With a rear bleeder screw open? Your pedal geometry and travel must be the same as OEM or you have no brakes if a line blows. You will be no better off than if you had a single master. Many conversions fail this test, thus giving only an illusion of safety.
The Mustang master has a smaller piston than the original, so you're always going to push harder than with the original.

 

[JSeery]

"The Mustang master has a smaller piston than the original, so you're always going to push harder than with the original."

Other way around on that one, the larger the piston diameter the more leg pressure required for the same line pressure.

 

[skidmarks]

You said it's been in storage 30 years. How are.the hoses?

 

[randy993]

All of the hoses look fine. No signs of cracks or dry rot. I'll replace them at some time.

 

[40 Deluxe]

"The Mustang master has a smaller piston than the original, so you're always going to push harder than with the original."

Other way around on that one, the larger the piston diameter the more leg pressure required for the same line pressure.

You are so right. Major brain fade on that one! I need to remember: "Engage brain before activating fingers!"

 

[skidmarks]

I had some hoses that looked good but were collapsed on the inside. But most of the time that makes them work more like a checkvalve and the brakes drag or wont release than restrict the flow and hard to stop

 

[swanwaco32]

I would also check the shoe material for being too hard. FF I think is the best. You should be able to press your thumb nail in the corner of the shoe. I also use white chalk and draw big X,s on the face of the shoes to check the contact surface after driving. You should break in the shoes without hard stops. We use to get a red tag to hang on the mirror for customer warning about hard stops for 500 miles.

 

[glennpm]

Make sure that the "major adjustment" or " new shoe" adjustment" from the Ford bulletins has been done.

 

[randy993]

I didn't think about the age of the shoes. I may replace the shoes and turn the drums and replace the hoses and see what I have then. It sounds like that this stock system should perform descent enough for my driving needs. I can spend the money on rebuilding what I have instead of going with the bendix upgrade.

 

[russcc]

What Skidmaks pointed out is the junk they sell for brake shoes and or shoe linings do not stop. Case in point, Ray Helgers son replaced the brakes shoes on 'a '40 coupe, it would not lock up the brakes, or stop worth a darn. He got some NORS linings from his Dads diminishing stash, put them on. Then he could lock up all 4 wheels, and said it almost put him through the windshield. Buyer beware. The 2nd key point made by Charley NY is the master cylinder is designed to match the wheel cylinders. Use the original '40. Got mine from Advance Auto. Also check with Fred Wilner at SSO.

 

[randy993]

Yeah I was just thinking of where to get a shoe you can depend on. I've purchased several things from Joes Antique Auto and he has been very helpful. I may get the drums turned and check the hardness of the shoes and see what I have then.

 

[JSeery]

Getting the drums turned may not be that easy, not everyone can do them. Also, you will need a hub puller to remove the rear drums.

 

[randy993]

what's special about the drums as far as turning them on a brake lathe?

 

[Mart]

Why turn them? That's just a load of life taken out of the drums. They only have a finite amount of material, personally I would bed the shoes to the drums rather than thin the drums out. It might be interesting to see what the drums are at now. Might be way oversize already.

 

[19Fordy]

I know this has already been covered but, here's another "How To Adjust 40 Brakes".
Notice the 25 to 35 brake pedal requirement in photo #2. Doing this does make a difference. Use a bathroom scale and a piece of 2 x 4 wedged between the pedal and seat.
Of course, you will put another larger and thinner piece of plywood against the seat so as not to cause damage to seat.