39 steering locked - key won't turn lock - help

L78CHEVELLE

L78CHEVELLE

Senior Member
39 Ford standard, been sitting 52 years, key would turn easily, started car and drove it some, took the key out of the ignition to see if the trunk key worked, now I can not get the steering to turn and unlock the column, any ideas what to do or look for? Can I take the small ignition block off the back of the steering column and move the rod over to unlock the column?
 
If it worked before it should work now.Lube it and wiggle it some.Probably tumblers or keys are worn is reason why it sticks.I don't believe removing the switch will give you access to the pin or let you move the rod as the lock must turn to release.Worse case scenario would be to drill out the pin that secures the lock cyl and remove the lock cyl.
 
Some times the wheel will be turned slightly and it will put a load on the lock assembly. Move the wheel a little in each direction and see if you can take the load off. Worst case jack up the front end and try some more. The works on modern cars as well. Report what happened.

Charlie Stephens
 
If in desperation you do decide to use 'lube', don't use a wet product like any sort of light oil or WD40, use powdered Graphite instead.
It's highly likely that Charlie Stevens answer will work for you.
Let us know if the suggestion worked.
 
Remember the key turns counter-clockwise. (anyway my `35 does) Normally you turn a switch clockwise to turn on and by habit you have a tendency to do this to the key. Move steering wheel back and forth slightly and keep pressure on key while doing it.

Shadetree
 
I tried everything that was suggested. Key would not turn the lock. I prayed about it and said to heck with it. If I have to drill out the stop and remove the ignition switch I will throw everything at it I can think of before I drill it out. I sprayed some Deep Creep into the lock and on off switch until it ran out everywhere into the floor. I tried it and it would not turn. I left to let it set over night. I went back today and it turned on the third try. I'm too much of a coward to try and lock it again and take the key out.
 
I did that on a 46 ford same thing.I put a paper clip on the flat side of key to increase the deep for wear.When I got it unlocked I broke the key off,and said that wouldn,t happen again.LOL
On my 39 When I had the colume apart I removed the locking slot on shaft.It just looks locked ,but will never lock again.LOL
 
I had a door lock cylinder that was doing the same thing your ignition lock cylinder is doing. I turned out to be stuck spring loaded pins inside the cylinder. We took the cylinder out of the door and sprayed it full of PB Blaster. Then we inserted and removed the key many time with an occasional try at turning the key. The cut part of the key would get a black oily firm build up that we kept wiping off. Then we would fill the cylinder with more PB Blaster and kept repeating this cycle until no black oil film would build up on the key and the lock cylinder turned smoothly in both directions. Its been working well since then with no more sticking problems.
 
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Had a Lincoln lock that would not turn or was hard to get it to turn. Made a new key from the door lock code and it worked fine ever since. I guess the original key was worn and did not depress the tumbler(s).
 
The problem may be with the locking pin itself. That's the part that slides up & down inside the drop. The lock cylinder moves the pin in & out (or up & down depending on the year)only. If the pin is cruddy it will stick and cause the lock cylinder to feel like it does not work. If I remember correctly you can partially lube the pin from outside near where the drop bolts to the dash. You can see more of it if you take the two bolts out that hold the column to the bottom of the dash. You may have to loosen the 3 bolts that hold the steering box to the frame. If you take the switch box off the back you may be able to see more of the mechanism. Do what Charlie said again, this time spray the Chevy out of everything while you turn the key and watch the pin go up & down. Then take two aspirin and call me in the morning. Also,I can cut a key by code if you need one.
 
a neighbor had a 46 ford with the same problem, as mentioned above, with the paper clip, only dad used a bobby pin, worked like a charm.
 
The trunk and ignition keys are NOT the same. Ignition and door are the same.Trunk and glove box are same. ken ct. soak the hell out of it.
 
My 39 does the same thing. I have to wiggle the key, move it in or out a little, them all at once it turns. I don't remove the key unless I'm on a out of town tour. Don't take it apart, I think they all do it, Chuck.
 
I had the same problem with my steering shaft lock not turning or unlocking with the key on my 1936 1.5 ton truck. I worked with this lock for a week then i done a search about the lock and found this thread. I used a sewing needle under the flat part of the key and it worked on the first try so i thought I would pass the info along. Thanks for the help.

Mike
 
I just cut several keys for a friend using NOS Hurd blanks. They were "heavier" than the blanks available today. With thinner blanks the cuts in the key will be deeper than an original. Worn locks and or worn original keys will have the same effect. When I cut using the new blanks I adjust the cutter slightly to compensate.
 
If you don't fix it it will come back to haunt you! You drill a small hole in the center of the lock pin about 1/4" deep and then tap the hole for 8-32 or 36 thread place a screw into the new hole and use a nut and collar on the screw to pull the lock pin out. The lock cylinder than then be pulled straight out of the column. Send to Leon Rowell and he can make a new key, fix broken springs or rusted pins inside.
 
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