38 transmission question

[Fredb_]

Transmission is out, probably good thing as the u-joints look a bit loose. I'm sure Mac's book will enlighten me, but to remove the front cover it looks like the clutch fork needs to be rotated down or taken off altogether. Neither of the pins that retain the clutch fork or arm on outside want to budge. Anybody have a tip for me at this point?

 

[David J]

As simple as this .

to remove the front cover it looks like the clutch fork needs to be rotated down .

 

[Mac VP]

He can't rotate the shaft on this style due to the clutch arm. Get a dremel bit (looks like a 1/8" drill bit with fluted sides) and grind the head off the pin in the clutch release fork. Then drive it down and out with a long 5/16" drift punch and your BFH. You should see your book any day.

No need to remove the clutch arm from the shaft unless you see heavy wear on the shaft where the bushings sit.

 

[David J]

I sometimes get my foot in my mouth thinking that something they had right on 33-34 cars was not screwed up on newer stuff [ besides styling of course ] and here is another example . If this newer style requires un-riveting the fork to work on the ****** that is screwing something up they had right before in my book . The pic is a 33 ****** and as you can see it is NO-PROBLEM working on the front of the ****** . I really need to mind my own business on these newer cars as I have never owned a flathead car newer than 1936 and I haven't had one of those since 1977 . I lose interest quickly if the front doors aren't on backwards and sorry bout the erroneous info on your newer ****** . Again I made the mistake of thinking something they had right stayed that way . Obviously not in this case .

He can't rotate the shaft on this style due to the clutch arm. Get a dremel bit (looks like a 1/8" drill bit with fluted sides) and grind the head off the pin in the clutch release fork. Then drive it down and out with a long 5/16" drift punch and your BFH. You should see your book any day.

No need to remove the clutch arm from the shaft unless you see heavy wear on the shaft where the bushings sit.

 

[Fredb_]

Yes, I like that design a bit better. Mine is pinned on, but can't get to the bottom side to drive it out. The pin does move a little, so I should have no trouble getting it out once the head is removed. I just hate ruining a good part if it ain't necessary. Thanks.

 

[columbiA]

If. I were you,I would use the complete gear- set from a 39-48 Ford along with a 39 car or. 39-52 pickup or commercial shift tower.They have much better synchronizers.

 

[Fredb_]

columbiA, sounds good, but how difficult is that to come by? Or should I say what might I expect to pay for that setup?

 

[ford38v8]

He can't rotate the shaft on this style due to the clutch arm. Get a dremel bit (looks like a 1/8" drill bit with fluted sides) and grind the head off the pin in the clutch release fork. Then drive it down and out with a long 5/16" drift punch and your BFH. You should see your book any day.

No need to remove the clutch arm from the shaft unless you see heavy wear on the shaft where the bushings sit.

I see no sense in rebuilding something only partway. New bushings are cheap, labor is love, but why do it twice on the same car?

About the pin... I replaced mine with a bolt & locknut, figuring that I'll need to open it up again someday. I guess old Henry must have had confidence that it would last 70 years, or he might have used a cotter pin through the pin!

 

[Fredb_]

I'm kinda leaning towards keeping stock and replacing all bearings, bushings, and seals. If a gear needs replacing that too. Newer technology might be nice, but if that was my goal I think I'd start with the brakes. All suggestions definitely give me food for thought. Thanks.

 

[Fredb_]

That was a bit of work grinding that head off, but that did it. Need the Mac manual now before I drop all the parts out and loose ball bearings and springs. So, these U-joints have bushings instead of needle bearings?

 

[Mart]

Yes, the early ford uj's have bushings not needle rollers. Your joint doesn't look too good from the photo, that brown may indicate fretting. The joint should have very little play in the bushes, but be able to slide freely in them. The bushes should be a snug fit in the UJ forging, the only movement should be between the crosspiece and the bushes.

Mart.

 

[columbiA]

That U-joint is worn out from running dry for a long time. It is beyond rebuilding. Find another one.There are lots of good used ones out there. Pack lots of grease around U-joint & grease it every 1,000 miles &it will last forever.

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

You can rebuild that universal joint if the two castings/forgings are still in good condition. Rebuild kits contain new cross shaft, four bushings and four spring clips. Good used ones are also easy to find. I have a bunch of them, if you need one send a pm.

 

[Fredb_]

I found the broken part in the bottom of the case. I need to look more closely at part to identify, but perhaps someone can tell me exactly what this washer is. Mac's three speed manual took the guesswork out of the disassembly, and will give me what I need to get it back together.

 

[David J]

Looks like 68-7071 . It belongs behind second gear and it's absence would cause your problem . It's absence is allowing your second gear to move back and not engage properly . If that is all that's wrong youzza getting off cheap .

I found the broken part in the bottom of the case. I need to look more closely at part to identify, but perhaps someone can tell me exactly what this washer is. Mac's three speed manual took the guesswork out of the disassembly, and will give me what I need to get it back together.

 

[Fredb_]

Yes David that thrust washer was not on the main shaft as it should be. All gears look good. Will replace some other small parts on reassembly. Thanks for the input.

 

[David J]

If you use the same SAE 140 in your u-joint [ 4 oz ] as your ****** and rear end you should be done wearing out u-joints . Just pour it in through the speedo hole . If you want to get fancy use a mustard or whatever squeeze bottle with a hose on it and squirt it right into the inner bell . This should work on 32's also even with the speedo turtle on the bottom . The inner bell easily holds the 4 oz and with the hose you can squirt it right in . Many different opinions on this but 140 does well in there . On a completely different note the offer on the syncro still stands if you want it .

 

[perrysmith]

Not to be devisive, but that "green oil" was good enough for the final drives on D9 Caterpillar tractors, so I figure it should handle a flathead transmissions. They did not have issues with it.

 

[TerryOH]

I have been warned that this has happened before on other cars. Make sure end plays are correct when assembly. I would take David J up on his offer of a new syncro. hub since they are no longer available. Note there are small dimples on the brass rings faces, these dimples are to hold the brass rings tight in the hub. Sometimes the brass rings will turn in the hub, or even fracture and start to stick out (see Mac VanPelt posting above). Make sure the dimples align with the holes in the outside of the hub, if they do not then the rings are turning in the hub, NOT GOOD. Try to find a NOS washer B-7071 replaced by 68-7071 (to the rear of the 2nd gear) or B-7069 (between the syncro. hub and 2nd gear) which ever washer has broken.

 

[Mart]

That's great. there's nothing worse than not finding what caused the problem. Like you say, it should be a simple exercise now to get her back up and running. If it was running really well before (not jumping out of 2nd, nice and quiet, shifting well etc.) I'd be tempted to just put her back together with the known good parts you have. Replacing bearings with new is ok, but you can have problems with thinner snap rings causing extra endfloat, and sometimes I think the quality just isn't there with some of the new parts.

Mart.