38 transmission question

Fredb_

Fredb_

Well-known member
I've making good progress so far on the 38 sedan, but have had a setback. I did not open the transmission while I had the car mostly apart because it shifted through all gears pretty smoothly. As soon as I could actually drive it I took it up the road and shifted through the gears with no trouble. I went ahead and put the floor together and carpeted the floor and firewall. We drove it probably 20-25 miles around town over the past week with no shifting issues, but as I was driving it to the DMV last week to license it I started having trouble getting it to shift into 2nd gear. It would go into 1st and third, but not completely into 2nd. I got it home and did some reading online. I suspect something has gone wacko with the shifting forks, but I am looking for ideas. Sitting in the garage with engine running at idle it will shift into reverse, 1st, and 3rd normally. If I shift into 2nd it feels like it almost is in gear, but as I release the clutch it pops out and grinds against the gears. The other gears work normally and do not pop out or grind when clutch is released. I have also changed the gear oil with the heaviest I could get off the shelf locally. (85w/145w gear). Any help appreciated.
Fred
 
If you have the early style (32-38) type synchronizer, I'd venture a guess that the thin brass ring on the 2nd gear side of the synchro has come loose. If so, trans needs to come out and completely apart to repair. Remove the shift tower with the shifter in neutral. If you can see the brass ring at all, it has come loose.
 
I'm not sure what I'm looking for. Can you tell me if I have the "early" ******? Where do I want to look for the brass ring you're talking about?
 

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I don't know anything about transmissions, but in the photo have I marked the 1st and second gears correctly? Is the brass ring part #7069 or #7071 from the diagram? I don't see it when inspecting the gear cluster, but then I don't really know what to look for either.
 

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You do have a 37, 38 and some 39 type gearbox, and this problem you describe is all to common on these. It seems that if everything is new they dont do it, and they will go for many thousands of miles perfectly, even to the point where they are quite worn. But the moment they are 'disturbed', this problem arises. I have had this a few times, pulled the dang thing apart, and really cant see what the cause is. It will improve with use, if you are prepared to put up with it meanwhile. I think it is a combination of wear in the synchro hub, the taper on 2nd gear, and the 2nd gear bush. there is very little about this in Ford service publications....the only reference they make is to replace the synchro assembly when you replace the gearbox bearings.
 
Fred,
The item beneath the word "***'y" is the syncro hub. The brass rings Mac
referred to are sweated or sweaged into either end of the hub.
If in fact the 2nd gear brass ring is spinning free and the trans has to be
pulled it would make absolute perfect sense to upgrade to the mid '39 up loose
syncro setup. Not a hard job if you have the parts...
Charlie ny
 
Charlie, thanks for the info. I can't see any brass ring in the assembly. I will probably remove ****** to do the repair and would be interested in the upgrade to newer synchro if parts are available and don't require too much gold.
 
I don't see the brass ring hanging out loose in your pics. I wonder if its simply loose on its side of the synchro hub (rather than fixed to the hub as it should be on the 32-38 type synchro). There should be no crunch on an ordinary shift into 2nd gear. I think you should get it apart to check it out. Consider getting a copy of my book for the repair.

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_trans-book.htm
 
Just for S&%*S and giggles what type oil did you put in the transmission ? Could that be a problem? I would try to wash it out and try a recommended oil for a thirties transmission. JMHO. .
 
Something looks unusual to me about the way that gear oil is heavily coated on some parts of the gear teeth but not on others. Exactly what type of gear oil did you use? I know you said 85w/145w in your first post, but I am wondering about other details like manufacturer, recommended use, etc.
 
The problem started before I changed the gear oil. I thought maybe new oil would help. I looked for something more designed for this period car but was not available locally. I used Valvoline High Performance 85W-145W gear oil. I have ordered Mac's manual and am ready to pull engine. Since I am now going to replace some parts in the ****** I will order some oil. Anybody got a link to someone that sells the correct stuff? Thanks for all the help and feedback it makes the project more interesting.
 
This stuff should get it done for you . NAPA $16.99 @ gallon . Also I have a good supply of NOS gennie Ford syncros . If you need one $16 at your door { lower 48 } . If you need one PM me . Don't wanna get the hall monitors undies in a bunch :D .
Fredb_ said:
The problem started before I changed the gear oil. I thought maybe new oil would help. I looked for something more designed for this period car but was not available locally. I used Valvoline High Performance 85W-145W gear oil. I have ordered Mac's manual and am ready to pull engine. Since I am now going to replace some parts in the ****** I will order some oil. Anybody got a link to someone that sells the correct stuff? Thanks for all the help and feedback it makes the project more interesting.
Click to expand...
 

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Just a thought, have you inspected the shift tower for wear in the 1/4 pin which fits to the shifter under the threaded cap. If it is really worn the shift will not be very positive. If this helps it sure beats pulling the engine.
Good luck, Paul
 
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