'36 wheel size with drop axle

I don't think you can get a 46" axle with the same perch pin measurement as a 36 wishbone. Magnum sells a 47" which is what I'm thinking of getting for my 36 coupe.
why not have your original axle dropped. Does the magnum axle have the correct perch bolt measurement for 33-36 axle?
 
I have a aftermarket dropped axle on my 35 and run 16 in wheels, 6.00/16 tires but kept the stock spring as I wanted to lower it slightly not put it in the weeds. I also have a chassis engineering sway bar which improves the ride.
I also run rear skirts (which I see you currently do) so again did not want too much of a drop in front.
I have F100 front brakes, they stop the car fine, perhaps an easier installation.
I always think 15 inch wheels can look a bit small but I suppose it depends on the profile of tire you use.
Sorry not helping much here, but that is a nice looking coupe and with the skirts sits really nice.
 

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I would use the narrower axle from Chassis Engineering or Magnum. Disc brake kits will move your wheel about 1" to the outside. Use a 15X5 wheel wit a standard back space.
 
I would use the narrower axle from Chassis Engineering or Magnum. Disc brake kits will move your wheel about 1" to the outside. Use a 15X5 wheel wit a standard back space.

I also think the 47" axle will be to your advantage; but with a few other changes.

The Magnum axle with the '37-'40 perch width (38-1/2) along with '37-'40 wishbones and the stock or reversed eye spring is a good combo with the common disc brake kits.

The Chassis engineering axle has narrower perch centers (34") and will require a special spring; not a big deal if you are going with a new reversed eye spring.


The reason for the change to the later wishbone is that the '35-'36 spring hangers sweep outward and get into to really close to the tire on sharp turns.

This can also happen when 48" Magnum or SuperBell axles with the '28-'36 perch width (36-1/4" perch width).

A dropped stock axle usually ends up around 49-1/2" which works well with the stock wishbone and drum brakes; but can get close to the fenders with disc brake conversions.

Remember if you do use the '35-'36 wishbone that it has 2" perch bolt eyes.
Unless special ordered the aftermarket axles are 2-1/4"; easier to get an in stock axle and mill it down to 2" if needed.

The '40 in the picture has a Magnum axle, Posies spring, and an F-100 (5 on 5-1/2" pattern) rotor disc brake conversion (these are slightly wider than regular conversions)

The '35 has a Chassis Eng axle, Posies spring, '40 'bones, and F-1 drum brakes.

Both have stock '50's F-100 wheels, kinda gives you and idea on how things
can fit together; but I would measure your fender to fender inside width and add up the width of the parts you want to use and see if they are all compatible with fit and turning clearance.
 

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A small point that may apply.
If you install Magnum dropped steering arms you may find that
the grease gun tip may not fit over the stock grease fitting. Install longer grease fittings to solve this problem. This is a Magnum 4 in. dropped axle with dropped steering arms on a 40.
Here's some longer fittings.
http://zerksplus.com/1-4-28/?sort=featured&page=2
 

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It does but the axle is 47 1/2" on the KP holes.
Greg Haynes dropped my 36 axle, the KP C/C ended up at 47-1/4. I also reversed the eye on the main leaf and left out 3 leaves, running the original wide 5 wheels with 39 brakes 5.50 Coker nostalgia radials and its tight.
 
This car I built has a 1-1/2 over stock dropped axle.... has 37-41 spindles with stock steering arms that did not need dropped...

Neat car, sits just right. Just wondering how you got this inch-and-a-half drop in the axle without having to heat & bend the steering arms on those spindles?
 
Chassis Engineering front end kit, 4" dropped axle, sway bar, reversed eyes, dropped steering arms, disc brakes with 15" X 6" rims with 4" offset and 195 X 65R X 15 radials
 

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Neat car, sits just right. Just wondering how you got this inch-and-a-half drop in the axle without having to heat & bend the steering arms on those spindles?

Thats all that the stock 37 axle was dropped 1-1/2" over stock. The 37 to 41 axle.look sketchy with a lot.of drop in them. The arms cleared without hitting full turn left to right. But now that i am thinking i might have flipped the tie rod. I will take a picture of it . I do know i didnt bend the stock arms.


The mono leaf has a spacer on top of it. I added a.pan hard bar as a.safety precaution which is recommended with the mono leaf.
 
The arms are not dropped. Its close but clears and doesnt bind up before hitting the kingpin keeper/stops. It has a chassis engineering tube shock kit . The rest of the lowering was with a Durant monoleaf. Just make sure you got a panhard bar if you use one of them
 

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