'36 wheel size with drop axle

365Window

New member
Hello Experts (and Whatnot),

I recently acquired a '36 5w coupe which is my first pre-50s classic. Not my favorite body style but the car is a complete steel mid30s coupe regardless and the price was right and I was the first to see it so I grabbed it. It barely ran when I got it but after a carb rebuild and some plugs the 350SBC runs flawlessly.

Anyway, to the point, it has lots of go but not much stop with the drums brakes on it now. I am dropping the front end and adding front disc brakes. The car is a driver and my aim is not to dump a bunch of money into it but just to make it drive rock solid and look cool doing it.

This kit from Speedway has a lot of great customer reviews and fits my budget and needs.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ford-Front-Axle-Steering-and-Brake-Kit-48-Inch-Axle,35260.html

My questions are around front wheel size. I'll be using 48 in 4 in drop axles (2 +/- actual drop), reverse eye spring (1-2 in drop) with 37-41 style aftermarket spindles, 3 3/4 in drop steering arms.

I am pretty firm on 15 in with 4.5in BP. I'll probably just powder coat some smoothies but not sure on the width and backspace should be.

The above setup seems pretty standard so I am betting some of you guys can tell me the issues you have encountered with different wheel sizes, tires, and backspace issues and/or what works best. And REMEMBER, a pictures worth a thousand words...

Here is mine
 

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When you say "not much stop" have you compared it with other cars have have similar brakes (I assume it is the early Ford 1939-48 type brakes). I am not going to insult you by trying to convince you they are as good as disc brakes but maybe you have a problem and if it was fixed you would be happy with your existing brakes (MUCH cheaper). Be sure to post your question also on HAMB (http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/) since fordbarn is mostly stockers and HAMB is into the modified. I think your car looks great, I would leave it alone and drive it.

Charlie Stephens
 
When you say "not much stop" have you compared it with other cars have have similar brakes (I assume it is the early Ford 1939-48 type brakes). I am not going to insult you by trying to convince you they are as good as disc brakes but maybe you have a problem and if it was fixed you would be happy with your existing brakes (MUCH cheaper). Be sure to post your question also on HAMB (http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/) since fordbarn is mostly stockers and HAMB is into the modified. I think your car looks great, I would leave it alone and drive it.

Charlie Stephens


I appreciate your perspective. You sound just like my dad. I definitely considered just rebuilding the current system wherever needed.

I found this car has an adapter on the front hubs transitioning from 5x5.5 to 5x4.5 which it does not have in the rear which is 5x4.5. I want to solve for that too so converting to disc does that for me too. It is cheap, effective, an easy. My mind is made up. Thanks.
 
disc brakes on my daily drivers are a wonderful thing. disc brakes on a car that is seasonal, or sits for long periods is a bad deal. pads form a rust spot, which is hard and eats up pads, and pistons seem more prone to seizing than drum brakes. just my 2 cents worth, and i am not running in the 24hour lemans, nor do drive in rush hour in the city, and i do not tailgate...so, drums are fine with me
 
Drum ... Disc ... Whatever. I have classics with both that all stop fine.

This post is about what wheel size after I install disc brakes and a 48 inch drop axle, drop arms, rev eye springs and spindles.

I need data on wheel size and not opinions on brakes.

Thanks.
 
I'm running a 48", 4" drop axle and the stock spring with four leaves removed. I have 16" X 6" bias ply original style tires on 35 wire wheels. No problem at all! I can send you pics if it helps.
 
Drum ... Disc ... Whatever. I have classics with both that all stop fine.
This post is about what wheel size after I install disc brakes and a 48 inch drop axle, drop arms, rev eye springs and spindles.
I need data on wheel size and not opinions on brakes.
Thanks.

You might find the H.A.M.B to be more informative.
 
I'm running a 48", 4" drop axle and the stock spring with four leaves removed. I have 16" X 6" bias ply original style tires on 35 wire wheels. No problem at all! I can send you pics if it helps.

Thanks for the useful info. Do your 16 x 6 have a neutral offset (0)?
 
Our current CEO (Ryan) of the barn has relaxed the forum rules enough that we can ask for input on some modern improvements to our early Fords but only to a point. Your car is already modified to more of a street rod category so it is a bit outside of the forums purpose.

The old mechanical brake systems could use improvements and so could the later Lockheed hydraulic brakes but they do function OK if maintained in good condition. The Lincoln brakes of the late 30s & 40s were a Bendix design and will stop an old Ford pretty well. Reproductions of the Lincoln brakes are available from MT products and other sources. If you want to go all the way to disk brakes then that is starting to get outside this forums purpose and more toward a forum that is into street rods.

As far as wheel size, the car will work with the more traditional 16 inch sizes but the wider 15 inch sizes might run into problems with tire width on a full fendered car. Narrower sizes are available in the 15 inch but I personally think the old style 16s look better but then again, I'm more traditional and prefer flathead V8 engines over the monkey motors.
 
Question...why go with a 48" axle...if you go with a 46" axle, your tires would have more tire turning clearance without any offset issues on the rims, wouldn't they?
 
This car I built has a 1-1/2 over stock dropped axle. Durant mono leaf reverse eye spring and F100 brakes. Sits right and stops great. Has 37-41 spindles with stock steering arms that did not need dropped. Chassis engineering tube shocks and a custom made Panhard bar. F100 brakes are bendix type with 5 on 5-1/2" bolt pattern.
 

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Question...why go with a 48" axle...if you go with a 46" axle, your tires would have more tire turning clearance without any offset issues on the rims, wouldn't they?

Nope.......just the opposite. The closer-together the kingpins (46"), the closer that puts the tires to rubbing on the wishbones when making turns. DD
 
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This car I built has a 1-1/2 over stock dropped axle. Durant mono leaf reverse eye spring and F100 brakes. Sits right and stops great. Has 37-41 spindles with stock steering arms that did not need dropped. Chassis engineering tube shocks and a custom made Panhard bar. F100 brakes are bendix type with 5 on 5-1/2" bolt pattern.

Looks like picture may have been ttaken on a rainy day at Latimore Vally, PA ;)
 

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Question...why go with a 48" axle...if you go with a 46" axle, your tires would have more tire turning clearance without any offset issues on the rims, wouldn't they?

I don't think you can get a 46" axle with the same perch pin measurement as a 36 wishbone. Magnum sells a 47" which is what I'm thinking of getting for my 36 coupe.
 
This car I built has a 1-1/2 over stock dropped axle. Durant mono leaf reverse eye spring and F100 brakes. Sits right and stops great. Has 37-41 spindles with stock steering arms that did not need dropped. Chassis engineering tube shocks and a custom made Panhard bar. F100 brakes are bendix type with 5 on 5-1/2" bolt pattern.

What is the center to center KP - KP measurement on your axle?
 
Before you send any money to Speedway you might consider Chassis Engineering instead. Top notch parts for your era car and excellent customer service.
 
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