35 Ford Brake problems

Going by past discussions on this subject some states allow 12"x90 .This is not a 35 but is a shot of a 34 spindle its a common fix to add a piece of metal on ether side of the of the 34 spindle when fitting the later 39 to 48 backing plates, this is because of the larger holes in the later ones .We changed one spindle for the sake of Govt compliance requirements so we followed along with what was done previously .I would suggest your chatter problem is because the holes in the backing plate are not concentric to the hub .Also people think a change to juice brakes will give them instant good brakes ,not so it depends on a few things one being the type of linings .Also a good thing to add is a remote vacuum booster hidden some were specially if the car is to be driven a lot at high speed . Ted
 

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Seems like he doesn't want to take time to take it apart to take a couple of decent pictures. I think the one lousy picture of backing plate shows a '46-'48 spindle, just like the drums. DD
 
Thanks for comments and suggestions. I've been picking folk's brains as I went. Thanks to people taking time to share, I have a much better idea of my problem.
I like to have a rough idea of what's going on BEFORE I dig in.
I've had several other issues to deal with that have prevented me from dropping the drum again. The car is elsewhere and it is frustrating to get it up in the air and then realize you gotta go back and get something simple. Did I mention it is 95 and in a tin building! I slip in early in the morning and chip at it.
Thanks for everyone's patience.
 
Asphalt Outlaw Hero said:
As I understand it, for earlier drums, I'll have to change hubs. I'll need the hubs, then a bearing spacer for the new hub. Regardless, I know I'll need the spacer that goes behind the wheel but IF I can find a decent set of drums, it is simpler than changing out hubs etc.
Hubs are roughly 140 apiece. Drums 125. Pretty soon you're up $600+.Also more to change out and sometimes "fit".
Trying to avoid reinventing the wheel so to speak.
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I am not sure what you mean. All you need is the right hubs (early or late) with the drums to make things work. Once they are bolted together they will interchange as an assembly. Note when I say bolted I mean with studs correctly installed with a 20 ton press. My guess is that with a little looking you should be able to find a good hub/drum assembly (less than 12.040) for about $100 (comments anyone?).

Charlie Stephens
 
Charlie Stephens said:
I am not sure what you mean. All you need is the right hubs (early or late) with the drums to make things work. Once they are bolted together they will interchange as an assembly. Note when I say bolted I mean with studs correctly installed with a 20 ton press. My guess is that with a little looking you should be able to find a good hub/drum assembly (less than 12.040) for about $100 (comments anyone?).

Charlie Stephens
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As I see it then, an option is to install something like some Speedway early Ford hubs along with early style drum ? Or find 46-48 drums, clean up, change bearing and install.

Thanks for hanging in there with me guys.
 
Asphalt Outlaw Hero said:
As I see it then, an option is to install something like some Speedway early Ford hubs along with early style drum ? Or find 46-48 drums, clean up, change bearing and install.

Thanks for hanging in there with me guys.
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You left out finding good pre war hub/drum assemblies. Go slow on changing the bearing, a lot of the old bearings are better than the current imports. Clean and repack. Remember not to spin the dry bearing with an air gun or it will damage it.

Charlie Stephens
 
Charlie Stephens said:
You left out finding good pre-war hub/drum assemblies. Go slow on changing the bearing, a lot of the old bearings are better than the current imports. Clean and repack. Remember not to spin the dry bearing with an air gun or it will damage it.

Charlie Stephens
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I should have taken a picture of the Mexico label on the bearings in there now. Oh well ,Fords are made there now anyway ? Many years ago i was spinning a bearing with an air gun and the shop owner explained what was getting ready to happen........
 
Asphalt Outlaw Hero said:
I should have taken a picture of the Mexico label on the bearings in there now. Oh well ,Fords are made there now anyway ? Many years ago i was spinning a bearing with an air gun and the shop owner explained what was getting ready to happen........
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Point well made. You might want to hold off until you buy your used hub/drum assemblies (if that is the way you go) and see if they come with good bearings and races.

Charlie Stephens
 
Saga is over! I found a set of late model brake drums. One was NOS! Turned them and installed new bearings. Knocked old weights off of drums. Drives OK but I'm now trying to find some one who can dynamically balance wheels.

Thanks for all of the assistance I received.
 
Asphalt Outlaw Hero said:
.......Drives OK but I'm now trying to find some one who can dynamically balance wheels.
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While normally not recommended for passenger car tires (due to the low profile/aspect ratio of most these days) balancing beads such as Dyna Beads could be the easiest way to go for high profile tires such as shown in your pictures. Lots of info on the 'net. They are used lots in truck and motorcycle tires - I think the suggested cut off for aspect ratio is suggested as 65, which from your pictures you don't have to worry about. They work great in my bias 600 - 16's.
 
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