34 Steering

[Steve Staysko]

So I have this gap on the steering arm that I'm pointing at with the screw driver and it bugs me the internal components are NOS the rubber gromet is reproduction so whats your diagnoses Ford Barners?

 

[Steve Staysko]

When I assembled it I put the drag link spring in first, then the seat, then the steering arm and then the plug.

 

[Angledrive]

Steve, Think your missing a piece. Go to Early Ford Store web page for 32-34 drag link and see if you have all the parts.
http://lbcunited.com/earlyford2/index.php/cPath/160_163

 

[Steve Staysko]

I just looked and yes I have all the correct parts and when I test the steering its tight with hardly any play.

 

[Angledrive]

Rubber seal and metal dust shield should cover hole and threads.

 

[David J]

Why is the tin cover offset so far to the left ? If the hole in it is that screwed up just rotate it so the long part is to the right . Gotta remember in use the grease comes out here .

 

[Steve Staysko]

The tin cover is actually equal on both sides and I know the photo shows different but its equal

 

[Steve Staysko]

The cover on the left is what was on the car originally the cover on the right is the reproduction.

 

[Bob C]

Any chance you need to turn the drag link end for end? I know the Model A Changed
to the end you have on the pitman arm to the axle end.

Bob

 

[barnfind08]

Can't tell what your problem is but your reproduction rubber and cover are for big truck.

 

[Flowmeister]

On my 33 pickup, the draglink shield for the pitman arm was larger/longer than all the regular tie rod end ones.

 

[DavidG]

You have a worn opening in the drag link. The threads of the plug should not be exposed.

 

[TerryOH]

Looking at two drag links, on the bench (without the pitman arm) yes the threads of the end cap are exposed. I measured both and there is approximately 0.415 to 0.430 of the drag link for the end cap to screw into. I believe the rubber boot and the metal shield should (all four including the tie rod ends are the same identical part) cover most of the hole. When you move the pitman arm through it's range of motion does the rubber and metal dust shields then move and cover the exposed threads??

 

[DavidG]

I meant with the seal in place as shown in the first photo.

 

[Steve Staysko]

I took a look at my photos when I disassembled the car and the opposite end of the drag link was conected to the steering arm and both ends are different so which way should it be assembled? I also looked at my achieve photos and have seen it install either way.

 

[32phil]

Here's my spin. On my cars I have the ball sitting in the tie rod end far enough so it sits within the narrow portion of the cut out. As long as all the parts are present and in the correct order the ball usually ends up there anyway. If it is too far towards the round end, the ball could "pop' out of the rod end. As far as the threads showing..... I never worried about that ....as long as I felt there was enough tension on the ball (to keep it in the narrow end) and I could put the cotter pin in the slot.
But then again....what do I know....I'm the lock & key guy.....

 

[DavidG]

Steve,

It is not either/or in terms of which end goes where. You have the correct end on the steering arm in your photo. To assemble it otherwise would position the grease fittings incorrectly.

Another thought is that given you're doing a restoration, the grease seal retainers should be either black painted or S-2 black oxide finish, not S-7 cadmium plated (nor zinc plated).