31 rear roller track

T

TomIII

Junior Member
I'm sure someone always says make it "perfect", but are these really worn enough to justify (rivet) removal, welding, grinding etc. for this amount of wear? (I'm making all clevises etc tight)
 

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There is a lot of wear. The problem you may have is getting the shoes centered when you assemble the backing plates. Centering the shoes is a very critical part of a drake overhaul. If it were me, I would repair the tracks.

My opinion,

Chris W.
 
TomIII said:
I'm sure someone always says make it "perfect", but are these really worn enough to justify (rivet) removal, welding, grinding etc. for this amount of wear? (I'm making all clevises etc tight)
Click to expand...

If you want your brakes to perform as well as possible, yes.
 
The instructions are to weld them up and file them flat. Given that they have to be accurate within a few thousands, that may be problematic. It would require a lot of file to fit. Measure the brake shoe concentricity to see if you got the tracks right.

The Flat Head Ted kit allows the brake shoes to float which takes the roller tracks out of the picture.
 
I have made a set of jigs that hold the backing plates in a milling machine to hold them square and level. After welding, the working surfaces are milled to the correct dimension from the center line of the spindle or axle. In my shop is faster and easier than replacing the plates and reriveting them.
 
nkaminar said:
The instructions are to weld them up and file them flat. Given that they have to be accurate within a few thousands, that may be problematic. It would require a lot of file to fit. Measure the brake shoe concentricity to see if you got the tracks right.

The Flat Head Ted kit allows the brake shoes to float which takes the roller tracks out of the picture.
Click to expand...

Not so much on the rear. FHT still uses the tracks on the rear brakes. They just don't use rollers, but instead use their "centering pins". The tracts are still used and must be at least flat.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/...TERING-PINS-TEDS?fromCategory=SearchByKeyword

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/..._FHT/A-2045-FHT--shoe-centering-pins-1386.pdf
 
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This is an easy fix with a MIG ,Dremel cut off wheel and small sheet of copper or brass . I slide a sheet under the track and MIG the worn area slightly proud of flat . I then use the cut off wheel to dress the track flat .The brass sheet stops you welding the track to the backing plate . If it looks symetrical/flat by eye it will work just fine (trust me !!! ) MIG weld is hard so will last .

John in rainy cool evening Suffolk County England .
 
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