29 Fordor Gas Tank Removal

[supergnat]

I have attached a photo of what I have. It isn't very goob but it should give you an idea about what I have. I think I may need to slice the fabric to get access to the screws. Prying just breaks the board the fabric is attached to. Mine is and Oct 1928 Fordor Leatherback.
Supergnat

 

[Russ]

Since it is a 60-A, I'm thinking that you'll find the two screws shown in my photo under the fabric. Let us know.

 

[supergnat]

I was able to peel back the fabric without damaging it using a small trim prybar. I could then see the screws still holding the tank. On my car there were none above the gas gauge but the holes for screws did exist. I did have two screws on the left side of the tank near the door and two more on the right side of the tank near the other door. When I loosened those screws I could see the tank move when I pushed down on the stearing wheel. I will now need to remove the two frame screws holding the steering column to the frame. I already remocev the two screws and clamp anchoring the steering column to the tank. I am out of time for today so I will continue probably tomorrow and report back. The photos show fabric peeled back and the bolts visible on both sides. This car still has its' original interior and top. The body color was changed, top painted black, and I believe the dashboard area and the fabric on the dash was also painted black.

 

[supergnat]

Hi again,
I have made progress. I was able to reveal the hidden screws by prying back the original dashboard material, causing minimal damage, using a small trim pry bar. This revealed two ¼ 20 bolts on each side of the dash (none in the fuel gauge area) holding the tank in place. Once removed I was able to wiggle the tank. I then removed the bolts securing the steering column to the frame (which I missed before) giving the tank room to drop down once freed from the cowl. After a couple of taps on a block of wood over the filler neck the tank broke free from the cowl and dropped below the cowl. I found I had to raise the tank filler neck up through hole in the cowl in order to be able to spin the tank so it could be removed. SUCCESS, HOORAY!!! I have attached photos so you can see what I have.
New problem is that the new tank does not have the holes needed to anchor the tank to the cowl. My remedy is to temporarily install the tank and use the cowl holes as a guide to add holes to the tank. I will either drill the new holes or use a Whitney punch to punch them out. Is this a viable solution? Will a Whitney punch be able to punch through the two layers of welded steel? If not, do I need a special drill to drill through the steel and welded seam? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Once I add the holes I will remove the tank to apply the anti-squeak.
Thanks,
Supergnat

 

[jm29henry]

Mine has wood and the fabric covering came with my interior kit from jc Taylor

 

[Russ]

Glad you had success. Interesting that the two mounting holes under the dash are slightly different between the 60-A and 60-C.

Any reason you're not going to restore the original tank. It's a shame to separate the original tank, which I presume has a firewall date stamped on it, with such an original car. My original tank was a mess (rust inside and the steering column bracket cut off), but I had a lot of success re-welding on a donor bracket and having the tank chemically stripped and re-tinned. I just reinstalled it about a month ago and it looks brand new.

Barring the above, you should have an easy time drilling another tank to match the cowl screw holes. Just mount it in place and use the cowl as a drill guide.

 

[supergnat]

Thanks for the response Russ. My original tank is full of rust. It has a pencil filter installed and I could not drive more than two blocks before it would stall due to a clogged fuel line and of filter. I would just like to be able to drive the car. I was considering the evaporust cleaning process but didn't know what to use to seal the tank from continued rusting considering the ethanol gas that we must now use. If an ethanol proof sealer appears on the market I would consider restoring my original tank. The cowl to tank securing screws are 10-32's so I will use a #7 cobalt drill to drill the holes in the replacement tank. Thanks again for all your help. I really appreciate it.
Supergnat

 

[chuckstinn]

My Sep 25 1928 Briggs 60A has the wood piece behind the dash.

 

[Rui Roda]

Dear all,
First a warm greeting to the members of this Forum, as it's the first time I enter to ask for advice.
I have a 29 Fordor Briggs (RHD), that I bought when I lived in Argentina and that I brought with me when I returned to Portugal.
The tank was repaired in Argentina, but we made de mistake to reattach the column to the tank and some years latter it restarted to leak. Unfortunatly, I haven't seen the removal of the tank.
Now, I think I've followed the instructions of this thread. I removed all the bolts, but the tank stubbornly continues stucked.
Question A: Is it necessary to remove the section of the firewall I numbered 2 in the attached picture?
Question B: The Gas Filler is not in the center of the hole, can it be a problem? Attached a picture.
Best Regards
Rui

 

[Rui Roda]

Dear all,
Where is a will there is a way...
I re-read the thread and noticed that "Brent IM 10-UH-C" said to remove the filler panel between the lower firewall and tank firewall.
Now the tank is out and I intend to remove the original steering column clamp and install a home made support, inspired in the 30's, but adapted to the bolts under the windshield/behind the dash rail.
It seems me that the leaking comes mainly from the rust and not so much froms cracks.
My idea is to ask to repair at a radiator shop, but also use single-component resin for tank glazing that I bought before from a french site to anothere car; it's German made (Wagner).
Here are the pictures.

 

[ekon80]

Thanks to all for this information. This article very helpful. Regards