29 Fordor Gas Tank Removal

BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
How does this method actually work? Can someone explain the process?


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Brent, the reason it worked for me is my tank has patches soldered on the bottom from a prior cleaning probably 50 years ago. I removed the patches, cleaned as best as possible with a pressure washer,put in about a half gallon of crushed stone from the driveway and spun with the patches tacked back on. Being able to access through the holes to remove the stones is the only way because of the baffles.Came out pretty clean, just some surface rust, it was real bad before. Now I have to solder it back up.
 
Thanks for all the help, got the tank out this weekend, it was a definitely an experience. Now to the process of getting it cleaned up.
 
Should be 10 gal tank. The 4 door used the same tank in 28 and 29 as the rest of Ford production. It was just hidden under the cowl.
 
I just saw an reply to a question in the current Restorer mag. In the first line of the reply the statement was, that you needed to find a gas tank from a 4 door or cabriolet as these were the only one to fit. The only difference between a regular gas tank and 4 door/cabriolet is a few more holes where the cowl top fits over the gas tank.
 
My 60 A has the wood dash. dated 2-6-29 My dash wood was covered with thin black material - same as covering on lower front seat frame. Not a long or short grain top pattern.
 
I need to remove the gas tank on my 1928 Tudor for repairs. What is the procedure?

Remove gas line and drain tank
Remove bolts & nuts on the cowl in the engine compartment
Remove steering column
Remove dash and wiring
Remove bolts securing the tank on the inside
Remove gas cap

What about shifter? Is there enough room to get the tank past the shifter?
Do seats or one seat need to come out?

So the tank will drop down (might have to tap gas fill)?
 
Bill, your tank comes out the top. This thread discusses removal of '28-'29 Briggs and Murray body tanks, which mount under the top sheet metal that is visible from the outside.

Your tank IS the top sheet metal, and sits on top of the side panels. When you have all the bolts out, the front of the tank needs to come up and forward as the rear of the tank clears the dash rail and pillars. When the rear of the tank is clear, lift it off.

The steering column can stay in place.

Joe
 
The wood piece you describe is also on my 28 Briggs and is a problem when trying to install the 31 style steering support.
My original support is starting to leak.
Any suggestions ?
 
Njglide said:
The wood piece you describe is also on my 28 Briggs and is a problem when trying to install the 31 style steering support.
My original support is starting to leak.
Any suggestions ?
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There is only one logical answer...Remove the tank and get it fixed before there is more problems!

Pluck
 
Just removed, restored, and re-installed the gas tank to my June '29 Briggs 60-C Fordor recently. My car does not have a wood rail. The tank attaches structurally at the firewall (cowl and short firewall filler piece), two concealed screws above the dash panel (the row of holes on the aft side of the tank do not get used), and the two side rails that mount between the inside of the firewall and the door posts.

Here's a tip when you are reinstalling the tank: The anti-squeak that goes between the metal interfaces mentioned above can be purchased from the parts suppliers, but it is too thick and you have to figure out a way to attach it. Instead, find a hockey pro shop (nearest ice arena) and buy cloth hockey tape. It comes in black, white, or possibly other colors and worked perfectly on my tank reinstall. It also looked very similar to the remnants I removed from the original parts, for whatever that's worth.
 
Our Oct '29 Briggs TS (155B) Fordor did not have the wood mentioned. It does have close to sixty 1/4-20 fasteners. Dash rail remained intact. Steering column was unbolted from tank and frame but not removed from car. Tank came down and out with much effort working alone (crazy me). Was able to install anti-squeak at firewall sections using a dry-wall knife. Tank received a new coat of paint. This was two years ago and all remains good...no more junk in fuel bowl or carb. Good luck!
 
Here are some photos of my 60-C gas tank installation that may help. The hockey tape mentioned previously in the post, which is used by ice hockey players to secure pads, can be seen (white) in a couple of the photos. It can be trimmed and peeled away before and/or after installation. It really worked well.

Also, when the tank is back in, tape some poly film sheet (Home Depot) to the bottom of the opening before installing the short firewall filler piece as shown in the photos. Then, put the filler piece in with the top aligned with the gas tank firewall flange (I used spring clamps to hold it in place). Then gently tap the bottom from the inside with a rubber/plastic hammer until it is aligned. The plastic can be pulled out afterward, with a screwdriver to gently pry the tight spots if necessary.

I installed the side rail supports last, which I don't have photos for.

I was expecting the worst when the day came to install my tank, but it took less than an hour and was surprisingly easy.
 

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I am trying to remove my Briggs Fordor tank right now. I followed all the instructions in the Restorer article but the tank will not drop down when I tap on the gas tank filler tube. There was no mention of removing the dash rail. I do have the fabric covered piece under my dash. Do i need to remove that and or the dash rail too? Do I need to pry the on the tank where the anti-squeek is anstalled between the cowl and the tank? Your suggestions would be appreciated. Supergnat
 
Double Checking:
1. Are side supports under tank removed from inside of car?
2. Are two screws above gas gauge removed?
3. Is extra firewall filler piece removed?
4. Are all screws between cowl & tank firewall flange removed?
5. Is gas cap removed or loosened so tank isn't resting on cap?

If yes to above, maybe the felt anti-squeak pad between the tank & cowl is sticking. Try wiggling, twisting, & working the tank to break it loose. Be sure to support the tank well so it doesn't come crashing down.
 
Thanks Russ, Everything you listed is completyed except for the two screws above the gas gauge. I do not see any screws. Above the gas gauge. Are they behind the fabric piece?
 
They are shown in the photo in my post above. I am installing one of the two screws and one is shown in place. I'm not sure if there was originally anything covering these since my car was restored by the previous owner. The screws aren't visible unless you crouch down and look up from underneath.
 
OH, I see what you are talking about. They are not visible on my car. There is an entire row of screws under the dash rail that I cannot see And which I don't think were mentioned in the procedure. Now I need to figure out how to remove the fabric covering to gain ther access I need. Thanks so much for the advice. I'll let you know how I make out.
Thanks again
 
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