2 tooth steering box adjustment
- Thread starter Jonas A
- Start date
Kurt in NJ
Well-known member
Yes, the design is that way because most of the wear is at the center and it allows adjustment for wear without binding off center
Joe K
Well-known member
As you progress outward, the free play increases. You want it just about binding in the center, but not quite. And you want equal free play at either end.
For many this is counterintuitive since "shouldn't the free play be almost zero for the entire span?" Which is true and makes the box more like the 7 tooth in performance/action. But it's not necessary since the camber/caster/toe-in all combine to make the road wheels "self centering." (I.e. you let go of the steering wheel and while in motion the car tends to revert to a "straight ahead.')
There are those who have attempted to "grind" or otherwise modify the worm to reduce the "free play difference" between center and full turn. One description I've seen someone actually used "mechanics bluing" to reveal where the worst interference was and grind the worm REPEATEDLY to achieve that zero-free play/entire span condition. Which is certainly the correct way one would go about this, but...
Not necessary.
Your driving/steering won't be improved AND you reduce the life of the box since in grinding you're removing "wear material" which otherwise could be "compensated out" and extend the life of the parts.
The natural tendency for the two tooth in use is to wear to that "7 tooth condition." A condition that isn't even necessary.
Joe K
For many this is counterintuitive since "shouldn't the free play be almost zero for the entire span?" Which is true and makes the box more like the 7 tooth in performance/action. But it's not necessary since the camber/caster/toe-in all combine to make the road wheels "self centering." (I.e. you let go of the steering wheel and while in motion the car tends to revert to a "straight ahead.')
There are those who have attempted to "grind" or otherwise modify the worm to reduce the "free play difference" between center and full turn. One description I've seen someone actually used "mechanics bluing" to reveal where the worst interference was and grind the worm REPEATEDLY to achieve that zero-free play/entire span condition. Which is certainly the correct way one would go about this, but...
Not necessary.
Your driving/steering won't be improved AND you reduce the life of the box since in grinding you're removing "wear material" which otherwise could be "compensated out" and extend the life of the parts.
The natural tendency for the two tooth in use is to wear to that "7 tooth condition." A condition that isn't even necessary.
Joe K
That's called the "centering" adjustment and is done with the eccentric screw that is located between the two lower sector housing bolts. You first do all three normal adjustments (main shaft end play, sector shaft end play, worm gear) then do the centering adjustment. If you change the centering adjustment, you'll likely find that the worm gear binds at the center of travel, so you need to go back and do that again. Keep doing the worm gear adjustment and the centering adjustment until you get it right. Les Andrew's red book has a good description of how to do it. If you have to turn the adjusting screw more than a quarter turn there's something wrong.
And BTW, when properly centered the line between "no play" at the center (worm gear adjust) and binding is very, very thin. You may need to do it several times and really sneak up on it to get it right. But once you do it is oh so sweet. I do my adjustments with the steering box resting on the vise and the steering column on a block of wood that's tall enough to let the steering wheel swing free above the workbench.
JayJay
stickshift
Senior Member
I found this helpful.
http://modelabasics.com/twoTooth.htm
http://modelabasics.com/twoTooth.htm
Brentwood Bob
Well-known member
Service bulletins have the procedure.