2 bbl carb for 55

rowens55

Senior Member
Does anyone know what, if any, modern 2bbl carb will fit my stock 55 crown vic with manual choke? Thanks
Rowen
 
Hi Rowen,

Because of the odd 3 bolt pattern, more modern 2 barrels will not bolt up. I don't think anyone makes an adaptor to go from the three bolt to a four bolt pattern. I could be wrong.
You could use a 1957 and up 2 barrel intake and use a Autolite or Holley two barrel from a Ford truck (which had manual chokes), or convert an auto choke one to manual.

Sal
 
Thanks sal, I think if I have to get another intake ill go the route we talked about in the PM. Your expertise is always greatly appreciated.
Rowen
 
Keep in mind your stock vacuum-only loadomatic distributor will not work with any carb not designed for a loadomatic. Solution is to upgrade to a '57-up mechanical advance distributor along with the later intake/carb.
 
I think there used to be adapters from the 3 bolt to the 4 bolt Merc., and G.M. 2gc carbs. I think speedway may have them. I know I have seen them somewhere.
 
Last edited:
Ok, after removing the carb we found several numbers and letters.
EBU 9515
Model EC?
10441 N
1 1/16
And one that looks like a G with an L through it 12
Looked it up and found it under the EBU 9515
The photos are identical to what I have
It says its for a 42-53 flathead
A little confused, please help
Thanks, Rowen
 
Rowen,

You're carb probably says ECG on it. If it also says 1 1/16 on it, it has to be for a '55 272. That's the venturi size which was only used in '55 and '56, but in '56 the 2 barrels had auto chokes. Also, the "H" on the side means Holley manufactured it. There was also an "F" for Ford manufactured carbs that looked the same.
In your email you asked for a carb kit number. I have had good luck with Walker kits that you can get at O'Reilly's. Should be able to get it the next day. Part number is 15302B.
If you want to spend a little more you can get a kit that has a leather accelerator pump piston instead of a rubber one. Lasts longer. Daytona Carburetor has those. You cam search for Mike's Carburetor Parts too. He has a lot of stuff.

Sal
 
Keep in mind your stock vacuum-only loadomatic distributor will not work with any carb not designed for a loadomatic. Solution is to upgrade to a '57-up mechanical advance distributor along with the later intake/carb.


That is very true. Because of that, I think it's easiest to just rebuild the original carburetor. Saves the distributor change and other minor things like linkage. Just have to make sure the diaphragm in the distributor is still good. Without that, you have no advance at all.

Sal
 
... Just have to make sure the diaphragm in the distributor is still good. Without that, you have no advance at all.

Sal

If for some reason you can't confirm good Loadomatic vacuum advance with a timing light while the engine is running.
Or need to check vac diaphragm operation separately from mechanical advance on a 57+ dist.

Here's a quick & dirty distributor diaphragm test...
Temporarily connect a long clean flex hose to the vac canister on the dist.
Remove the dist cap. .Suck hard on the other end of the hose.
There should be resistance and the points plate should move.
If there is no resistance to air movement the diaphragm is bad.
If there's air resistance but no movement the plate may be stuck, clean & lightly lube.
If the plate moves, suck harder then put your tongue on the tube end to seal it off. If the plate drifts back to it's resting position the diaphragm has a pinhole leak.
Cough (as needed) from the crappy tasting air.
Rinse your mouth (as desired) with a favorite beverage.
 
You have the Ford EBU carb that is correct for '55 with 272 engines. Some 55's had Holley 2100 carbs and they are nearly identical to the Ford EBU. These carbs are identical to the flathead carbs except for the valve body (2 hole base for flatheads).
These are very easy to rebuild even for an amateur. Get a good rebuild kit from Daytona Parts or other vendor that offers ethanol resistant materials if you decide to rebuild.
If you want to use a later carb, the 1957 and later carb could be used, but you also need intake manifold, all the original gas pedal linkage and bellcrank that mounts on the intake, the Fordomatic kickdown link and distributor that matches with the carb (1957 and later distrib with mechanical advance).
 
You have the Ford EBU carb that is correct for '55 with 272 engines. Some 55's had Holley 2100 carbs and they are nearly identical to the Ford EBU. These carbs are identical to the flathead carbs except for the valve body (2 hole base for flatheads).
These are very easy to rebuild even for an amateur. Get a good rebuild kit from Daytona Parts or other vendor that offers ethanol resistant materials if you decide to rebuild.
If you want to use a later carb, the 1957 and later carb could be used, but you also need intake manifold, all the original gas pedal linkage and bellcrank that mounts on the intake, the Fordomatic kickdown link and distributor that matches with the carb (1957 and later distrib with mechanical advance).



In Rowen's post I think he said he found some literature that said EBU, and not that his carb had EBU on it. EBU is a 1954 239 Y-Block carb and had a 1" venturi and not a 1 1/16" venturi like Rowen's carb. He also said it was marked EC? which I'm fairly sure is ECG (1955).
Also, you mentioned a 2 bolt carb ? That has to be a 1 barrel ?

Sal
 
I have also seen literature that calls for the ECG to be the correct carb for the '55 272 engine and I will not dispute that.
In the early 1970's, I frequented three large junkyards in this area that had lots of '55 and '56 Ford cars. Viaduct Auto parts in Woodriver had three rows of '55's each a city block long. I looked at many of those and most of them had EBU carbs exactly like mine. There was at least one Holley 2100 in the bunch. I did not see any ECG carbs, but there may have been some. I didn't inspect them all. That was where I got my 2nd EBU carb which I used as a spare for a while, but I sold it a couple years ago.
The 1956 carb is also a ECG, but it is completely different, although you wouldn't know just looking at it on the outside. The '56 ECG carb has a larger air throat and different guts in the main body, not to mention the valve body base is shaped noticeably different. The 1955 oil bath air cleaner will not fit on the '56 carb and vice versa due to the larger air throat on the 56. The linkage setup on the '56 is cheaper and simpler and all the '56's had automatic choke.
I assume the factory installed a lot of surplus EBU carbs on '55 272 engines leftover from the '54 model year.
Yes, the EBU does have 1" venturi, as does the one I have.
I also noticed that many of the '55 cars I saw at viaduct auto parts also had the old style starter solenoid with the metal can instead of the phenolic housing.
Maybe there were other things the factory might have installed on '55's leftover from the '54 model year.
 
Yes, based on you're experience it sounds like Ford may have used left over carbs from '54. By today's standards that would be a big no no, since the '54 carb had less airflow for a smaller engine. Also means '55 272's with an EBU carb have slightly less horse power at the horsepower peak. Probably not even noticeable by the seat of the pants.

Sal
 
Sorry for not getting back on this sooner and even now just a few mins.
The story;
Went out for tacos Friday night with the wife, 3 mile round trip.
The way there she suddenly sputtered and died, full tank.
Carb had been leaking from what we thought was the throttle linkage shaft
Turned out not to be the case. More detail later....
rebuilt the carb, thanks Sal, the Warner kit was great!
Hooked it back up, still wouldn't start after a couple feeble attempts.
Rebuilt carb with fresh kit AGAIN!!...more details later..
Finally no leaks AND no start.
Coil, cap, points, condenser, plugs AND wires.
More detail latter.
Runs better than EVER!!!!!
Thanks to all......more detail later...

:0) Rowen
 
Carb had been leaking from what we thought was the throttle linkage shaft

I recently had a similar problem with the leak at that location. If you removed the little steel ball down at the bottom of the accelerator pump bore, cleaned and blew it out and installed a new ball from the kit when you rebuild it, that probably did the trick.
 
Finally no leaks AND no start.
Coil, cap, points, condenser, plugs AND wires.
Runs better than EVER!!!!!

I am betting you could have just gotten away with installing new condenser instead of the whole shebang. Another thing to keep an eye on is condition of points. I like to file the points if they are pitted using one of those very thin cutting disks (broken in half) and held in your hand between the points, then blow off with air, and regap if necessary to proper point gap (around .016").
Still one other thing to look at is the tip of the rotor in the distributor. These become corroded and can cause hard starting. I have gotten to the point where I have been saving old rotors, filing the tip smooth, then electroplate the tip using a piece of copper tubing. It makes the rotor tip like new again.
 
the '54 carb had less airflow for a smaller engine. Also means '55 272's with an EBU carb have slightly less horse power at the horsepower peak. Probably not even noticeable by the seat of the pants. Sal

Sal, the EBU carb air throat is probably not more than 1/8" diameter smaller than the ECG. The EBU has the smaller 1" diameter venturis compared to the 1-1/16" for the ECG. I also checked the jets and they are the correct size for that carb (which means they are correct for a 239 Y-block).
I have been running this EBU on a 292 engine with the original 272 intake manifold for years. I couldn't ask for better acceleration, pickup and overall performance. It has more power than you would ever need, particularly in passing slower cars on the highway. I personally would be scared to death to push it past 90MPH for fear that the wheels would fly off the car as it is, so if the ECG was an improvement, that's great, but I agree, you probably wouldn't notice the difference.
 
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