1959 Fuel & Vacuum Pump

[KULTULZ]

Hopefully the accentric is not defective. I don't want to tear into the motor before I even get it to run for the first time since I bought hte car!

Check for tightness and condition -

 

[Stephenorf]

Electric pump.

The Carter P4070 is a popular electric pump/w good reviews, but I don't know where it's made. Some use it as an auxiliary pump; they prime the carb, start the engine, and then switch it off, letting the mechanical pump do the rest.

I saw most places offer an electric fuel pump instead of the mechanical pump for the car I have (like Autozone, Advanced, Oreilley's, etc.). I thought about getting one instead of using the mechanical type. Seems it might be easier all-around. They look really small, so I assume the power demand would not be too much. But I never swapped in an electric pump in place of a mechanical before, so I got a this SA pump from Kanter. I suppose all I need is a blockoff plate and some wiring to go electric. And maybe an adjustible fuel pressure regulator.

 

[Stephenorf]

Check for tightness and condition -

The actuator arm on the pump I removed showed no signs of unusual wear. Smoot as the proverbial baby's bottom! LOL

On another note, the arm was/is dry as can be. No sign of any lubrication on it at all. I was expecting an oil mess. The car has been sitting for years, so I assume all the oil drained back down.

 

[KULTULZ]

Just make sure you lubricate the arm with LUBRIPLATE or chassis grease. Maybe a few drops/squirts of engine oil at the pin bushings.

That area does receive oil if everything is working correctly.

 

[KULTULZ]

... I got a this SA pump from Kanter.

If you can post a photo of the pump when it comes in, it would be most appreciated.

 

[Stephenorf]

Just make sure you lubricate the arm with LUBRIPLATE or chassis grease. Maybe a few drops/squirts of engine oil at the pin bushings.

That area does receive oil if everything is working correctly.

If you can post a photo of the pump when it comes in, it would be most appreciated.

I'll post a pic whenever I get it.

Would a little bearing grease work the same as lubriplate...actually, I have some engine asembly lube in a tube somewhere...I don't have any Lubriplate.

Not sure I spotted any bushings where the actualtor arm is pinned to the the casing. But I can squirt a little il there too.

 

[KULTULZ]

Would a little bearing grease work the same as lubriplate...actually, I have some engine asembly lube in a tube somewhere...

Yes ...

 

[58Yeoman]

I had a Mr. Gasket fuel pressure regulator on my Chevy leak badly. I replaced it with a Holley, and it started leaking just as bad. Both using a stock mechanical pump from the "old days." I'm not running any right now and it seems the Edlebrock is working okay. You definitely don't want a fire under your hood.

 

[Stephenorf]

I had a Mr. Gasket fuel pressure regulator on my Chevy leak badly. I replaced it with a Holley, and it started leaking just as bad. Both using a stock mechanical pump from the "old days." I'm not running any right now and it seems the Edlebrock is working okay. You definitely don't want a fire under your hood.

Your right about that! And I see the PO ran a plastic inline fuel filter on top of the block. Now there's a fire just waiting to happen. There's another inline filter right at the carb. Not sure why they were running two inline filters. I'm going to bypass the plastic one. Ideally I would like a metal fuel line running from the fuel pump to the base of the carb, with a short peice of fuel hose connecting to the filter (that is screwed into the carb).

 

[55blacktie]

Stephenorf, do you know the psi requirement for your carburetor? You might want to find out, then select a pump of that level.

My Holley 4150 carburetor requires 5-7 psi. My Carter mechanical pump is 7 psi. Considering both are still in boxes, I don't know if the regulator will be necessary; but I'll have it, if I need it.

My research indicates that it's the psi, not gph, of the pump that's important. Unless the pump exceeds the psi requirement of the carburetor, the carburetor will allow only the amount of fuel needed to enter the bowls. Too much pressure can damage the carburetor and flood the bowels.

 

[KULTULZ]

That install is gnarly and downright dangerous. Rubber hose fuel line with a plastic filter stretched over a hot engine?

The KANTER 26455G seems to be an excellent product. They describe taking a good core and bringing it to present day specs (ethanol) with a complete rebuild.

Someone needs to ask them if this is the case.

Many fine antique motor cars suffer from Fuel Pump failure each season. Shelf life is short on the old laminated diaphragms and other pump parts. That's why all of our pumps are rebuilt using long-life materials and parts. Why risk a breakdown or even just poor performance? (Truck, industrial and early car pumps also available; please inquire.)

You will need to fabricate a steel pump to carb line with a metal container inline fuel filter.

As this is a service replacement pump for several years of production, there should be no concern of fuel delivery pressure/volume (IMO). I would ask them if they have output specs as they are rebuilding them.

If the previous owner(s) had two filters on the supply side, either the tank is full of trash and/or they were too lazy to service the one @ the pump which isn't too smart if you think about it.

 

[Stephenorf]

If the previous owner(s) had two filters on the supply side, either the tank is full of trash and/or they were too lazy to service the one @ the pump which isn't too smart if you think about it.

Yes, I agree. The PO supposedly replaced the fuel pump and fuel tank. I actually talked to the PO and confirmed the work that they had dane (in conversation). Its obvious by looking a the fuel pump that it is a brand new unit, but I can't tell about the fuel tank for sure.

 

[Stephenorf]

That install is gnarly and downright dangerous. Rubber hose fuel line with a plastic filter stretched over a hot engine?

I completely agree.

The KANTER 26455G seems to be an excellent product. They describe taking a good core and bringing it to present day specs (ethanol) with a complete rebuild.

Someone needs to ask them if this is the case.


You will need to fabricate a steel pump to carb line with a metal container inline fuel filter.

Yes, I have a line bender, and I will need to "borrow" a flairing tool from my local auto parts store. This should be a quick and easy job compared to most of the work I need to do to bring this car up to minimal standards for safe operation.

BTW...The metal container inline fuelf filter already exists at the carb.

As this is a service replacement pump for several years of production, there should be no concern of fuel delivery pressure/volume (IMO). I would ask them if they have output specs as they are rebuilding them.

I'll have to call Kanter on Monday to see if they have the rebuild specs, and the operational specs for the SA fuel pump I bought. I'm hoping that maybe some of this information is included with the fuel pump when they ship it (like a spec sheet inthe box).

 

[KULTULZ]

I'll have to call Kanter on Monday to see if they have the rebuild specs, and the operational specs for the SA fuel pump I bought. I'm hoping that maybe some of this information is included with the fuel pump when they ship it (like a spec sheet in the box).

If you don't mind. If they do it as advertised (my understanding of the advertisement), it is a class act. No reason to buy off-shore crap.

 

[Stephenorf]

If you don't mind. If they do it as advertised (my understanding of the advertisement), it is a class act. No reason to buy off-shore crap.

I agree, and the premium they charge is probably worth it in the long run. Also, the fuel pump comes with a lifetime warranty through Kanter.

 

[Stephenorf]

If you can post a photo of the pump when it comes in, it would be most appreciated.

This just in...Does this looks like an OEM rebuilt unit?

 

[Alaska Jim]

That pump looks like the one I recently bought off ebay that is /was for a 256 C.I. y-block. It was a new in the box unit. the # 4875 written on your pump is most likely the manufacturer part # and should be stamped on the pump some where. sometimes it is on the mount flange edge near the bolt holes.

 

[KULTULZ]

This just in...Does this looks like an OEM rebuilt unit?

Talk about the LUCK of THE IRISH!

It appears to be genuine.

At the top of the fuel bowl, does there appear to be a brass screen?

 

[Stephenorf]

That pump looks like the one I recently bought off ebay that is /was for a 256 C.I. y-block. It was a new in the box unit. the # 4875 written on your pump is most likely the manufacturer part # and should be stamped on the pump some where. sometimes it is on the mount flange edge near the bolt holes.

Yes, you can see it if you look closely in the 1st pic. It has "4875" stamped into the edge of the upper mounting flange.

 

[Stephenorf]

Talk about the LUCK of THE IRISH!

It appears to be genuine.

At the top of the fuel bowl, does there appear to be a brass screen?

That's great, I was hopiing it would ne!

Well, I can't tell if it is brass or not, it looks sorta like brass if you hold it just right in the sun. But there is definitely a screen between to glass bowl and the pump.

And technically it would be the luck of the .... Swedish!