1935 V8 convirteble sedan engine broken

P

Piet

Member
Hey,

Let me first introduce myself.
I am Piet and live in Europe.

My father and I have already imported several Ford A / T / V8 from America for hobby.

Our latest purchase is a 1935 Ford v8 convirteble sedan.

Unfortunately, the seller was not completely honest about the car.
When the car arrived in Europe we picked up the car from the port.

Check everything at home and then start the engine. The engine has crankcase pressure! (oil consumption / blue smoke)

The engine must therefore be taken out of the car and must be overhauled. As you guys have more experience with v8 engines in America than we do in Europe, the question is: how can we get the engine out of the car?
Via the bottom or top?

Thanks for the tips and my apology for my bad english!!

Gr.


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Welcome to FordBarn. Where are you in Europe? The same thing happened to me and I found a rebuilder in the south of France.The shop is now sold and new owners do not plan on any more vintage engine rebuilds.You will have to remove the hood,grille and radiator before pulling the engine.There is a member here that is in Sweden that could do your engine.flatheadmurre is his user ID.https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/member.php?u=63096
 
If it has good oil pressure, i wouldn't be so quick to pull and rebuild. Maybe the car has sat for quite awhile and not been run or driven. Drive it a while and see IF the rings are "stiff" and or other parts don't loosen up!!! How long did you run the car to determine what you perceive to be a "bad" engine?
 
I agree with the above. Beautiful car by the way. I'd take that even if it had no engine.
 
I agree with the rest...if you have good oilpressure there´s good hope for it.
The bottomend of a -35(babbit mains) is the hard part...good oilpressure says it´s ok.
Even if you have to pull the pistons and hone it...it´s not that bad compared to pouring new bearings.
I have most parts for that engine on the shelf if you end up short.
 
thanks for the many responses.
We let the engine run for a few hours. Smoke comes from the oilstick and where you top up the oil comes a lot of blue smoke. I myself also considered whether the rings were stuck.

Engine runs well, so I wanted to replace the piston rings / pistons, but then the engine will have to go out.


my apology for my first post. My English is not so good. But I also did not mean that I immediately overhaul the entire engine.
 
Again, I wouldn't be too quick to tear the engine apart, especially IF its running "good" as you stated. I would try running a can of Marvel Mystery Oil along with the regular oil and drive it awhile, each time making sure its "good" and warm and driven well.....not just started and left to Idle for an hour or so!!!! Then change the oil and put new in and just see what happens.
 
I'm no expert here, but i've heard of folks dropping the pan, pulling the heads & honing the cylinders with the engine still in the car. ??? Others here know more than i do.....what about it fellas?
 
I had a similar experience. I built a new engine to replace the existing one. Before putting the new motor in I drove the car hard for a few months. The more I drove it the better it got. The blowby stopped, and the engine got stronger. I never used the new motor.
 
I agree with post #9 plus pour a couple of oz of Marvel Mystery Oil down the carburator while it is running to the point of almost stoping the engine.
 
I agree with #9 as well.
I had a '39 coupe that sat for 25 years because the engine was locked up because a nut went down the intake.
I pulled the head, did the repairs and put it back together. It ran OK .It smoked for a few hours and eventually it cleared out. When I sold the car it started on the first bump every time with decent compression and oil pressure.
BEAUTIFUL CAR !!
 
Welcome to the Barn! Your English is fine!! One more for some Marvel Mystery Oil or the equivalent down the carb while it’s running at a high idle. Then run it on the road. You should put a load on the motor to loosen the rings. Not just idling. Very pretty car!!!...Good Luck!!..... Mark
 
i would start by checking the oil level. Then change the oil to the proper weight. Run an engine compression check.

in that order.

i've had a couple flatheads smoke for a few miles until the rings loosen up in the ring land. a compression check will tell you whats going on.
 
Change the oil, drive it hard for at least 100 miles to include hard pulls up hills and mountains then check the compression on each cyl. If you have good oil pressure, that is half the battle. If your car has a true 35 engine, it will have poured main bearings in floating inserts on the connecting rods. Could you post some pictures of the engine? I would suggest obtaining some literature on the servicing of your car. There are service bulletins and parts books available as reprints and even if they are in English, the pictures would be a help. It is possible to remove the oil pan and heads while the engine is in the car to put rings in.
 
Compression check is a must. If it has a broken ring, it will have very low compression on the bad cylinder. If the compression readings are just low, better than 45 or 50 PSI, then the rings may seat back in.

Folks used to replace rings or other top end components while the engine was still in the chassis but it may be easier to remove it if your shop is well equipped. The early motors with small bearings are poured babbitt main types. Later in 1935, the LB or large bearing engines were introduced and they have replaceable main bearing shells. All the old engines prior to 1937 had the water pumps in the cylinder heads.

Ford V8s were produced in France and in Cologne, Germany (Koln) but they are a bit harder to find these days I'm sure.
 
Here's what it looks like coming out...

It's quite possible it doesn't have a '35 babbited engine. Where do the upper radiator hoses connect, to the block, front of heads, or center of heads? Are there block-off plates on the front of the block?
 

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