1933 can't start after recent restart

You would need 6 volts going to the starter switch, and continuity for the ammeter lead, generator cutout, and ignition switch, to start the engine and charge the battery. The ammeter, generator cutout, and ignition switch leads should all be connected, (common), at one end of the fuse block. That will be the "hot" side.
Forget the blowing fuse for now. That only controls the lighting system as previously mentioned. Just get the engine running, then plan on a complete wire harness replacement. It will eliminate future headaches. With wiring that old, it just isn't worth the time to try to splice and repair all of the worn and broken conductors.
Does that help?
 
quickchange34 said:
Do you know how to use a volt ohms meter and a test light. They will really help.
Click to expand...
yes
I have a cheap volt meter
I mainly us it for contuinity check but have also measured the voltage at 6.2 volts from my battery so I can use that.
a test light may be better because otherwise I have to hold the flashlight in my teeth.

continuity i understand open give infinite resistance.
Taking the measure readings gets confusing as to where I place the probes.
I guess from - wire to positive or the frame.
 
To test the continuity of a conductor, you are just making sure that the conductor, (wire), has a continuous path from end to end. Just place one probe of the ohms meter to one end of the conductor, and the other probe to the opposite end of the conductor. Look at the ohms meter to determine if you have a short. Which you should. It's best to have alligator clips on the meter probe tips for this.
If you do not see a short when doing this, you have an open condition in that conductor. (Broken wire)
 
CC33 said:
You would need 6 volts going to the starter switch, and continuity for the ammeter lead, generator cutout, and ignition switch, to start the engine and charge the battery. The ammeter, generator cutout, and ignition switch leads should all be connected, (common), at one end of the fuse block. That will be the "hot" side.
Forget the blowing fuse for now. That only controls the lighting system as previously mentioned. Just get the engine running, then plan on a complete wire harness replacement. It will eliminate future headaches. With wiring that old, it just isn't worth the time to try to splice and repair all of the worn and broken conductors.
Does that help?
Click to expand...

Sounds great, thanks a lot. I plan to replace. 80 year old wiring in the walls of a home are bad enough I can just imagine 80 year old wiring exposed to the weather It was amazing that this car worked at all. The motor really sounded smooth and quiet
 
When you replace the wiring don't try and do it yourself using bulk wire from the local auto parts store. Buy a harness from one of the suppliers, it will be cheaper and better in the long run. See the archives for who is best and/or post the question.

Charlie Stephens
 
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Frank, Where are you located? There are so many V8ers out there very willing and capable of helping you get your beautiful car running, they can do it all or give you personal one-on-one instruction if you like. You just have to get that thing running, you owe it to yourself and to your Ford!

Tell us where you are? What city? We can help in person, but it's so hard by this long distance method!
 
If it is wired right, there is a problem in the lighting circuits causing the fuse to blow, and you are right, the fuse blowing would not stop the ignition from working.

Coincidentally, Frank, your coil is visible in the top of that pic. You were asking about that before. It may be worth looking at both the HT and low tension wires to and from that coil.

(I wrote this as a reply to the last post on page 2, missed the posts above.)

Frank, it's worth getting a "headlight" type flashlight that sits on a strap round your forehead. Very helpful when working in these out of the way areas.

Mart.
 
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I had a similar experence with a 32 ""B"" Wagon after a tour of over 1000 miles. The owner wanted the car moved to a different location before snow came. Started on a cold N.E morning som was letting it warm before moving it. As we wee taalging it just quit ! It turned out to be the condenser. justmy experience. Kerk
 
Mart said:
If it is wired right, there is a problem in the lighting circuits causing the fuse to blow, and you are right, the fuse blowing would not stop the ignition from working.

Coincidentally, Frank, your coil is visible in the top of that pic. You were asking about that before. It may be worth looking at both the HT and low tension wires to and from that coil.

(I wrote this as a reply to the last post on page 2, missed the posts above.)

Frank, it's worth getting a "headlight" type flashlight that sits on a strap round your forehead. Very helpful when working in these out of the way areas.

Mart.
Click to expand...

I appreciated your good advice before and replaced the HT wire because it as badly crystallized and insulation was off inseveral places and it broke as I twisted it. It thought that may be it.
But had to replace it anyway. Replaced the coil and condenser too.
 
ford38v8 said:
Frank, Where are you located? There are so many V8ers out there very willing and capable of helping you get your beautiful car running, they can do it all or give you personal one-on-one instruction if you like. You just have to get that thing running, you owe it to yourself and to your Ford!

Tell us where you are? What city? We can help in person, but it's so hard by this long distance method!
Click to expand...

I plan to keep working on it.
I love this car!
It is 99%original and I want to keep it that way.
produced in July of 1933 it has special significance for me.
Thanks for all your help.
I will call in the experts if everything I try does not work.
I actually have a spare rebuild model B motor and trans too. I bought them
because I plan to drive this car until I die.
 
CC33 said:
You would need 6 volts going to the starter switch, and continuity for the ammeter lead, generator cutout, and ignition switch, to start the engine and charge the battery. The ammeter, generator cutout, and ignition switch leads should all be connected, (common), at one end of the fuse block. That will be the "hot" side.
Forget the blowing fuse for now. That only controls the lighting system as previously mentioned. Just get the engine running, then plan on a complete wire harness replacement. It will eliminate future headaches. With wiring that old, it just isn't worth the time to try to splice and repair all of the worn and broken conductors.
Does that help?
Click to expand...


with ignition switch on
Have 6 volts at switch
6 volts at each coil terminal of brand new ignition coil
6 volts at generator cutoff
Test spark with spark/ coil polarity tester....NOthing lit up.
NO spark through Band new HT wire!!!!!
Looks like nothing is going thru my HT wire????
Could this new coil be bad?????
 
FrankWest said:
with ignition switch on
Have 6 volts at switch
6 volts at each coil terminal of brand new ignition coil
6 volts at generator cutoff
Test spark with spark/ coil polarity tester....NOthing lit up.
NO spark through Band new HT wire!!!!!
Looks like nothing is going thru my HT wire????
Could this new coil be bad?????
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, unlike in the old days, a coil (or any part) being new doesn't necessarily mean it is good. Don't replace too many parts at one time or you may end up looking for multiple problems. I once helped a person start a Model A. It turned out his points were adjusted too wide and didn't close. Did you check the voltage on both sides of the points?

Charlie Stephens
 
Charlie Stephens said:
Unfortunately, unlike in the old days, a coil (or any part) being new doesn't necessarily mean it is good. Don't replace too many parts at one time or you may end up looking for multiple problems. I once helped a person start a Model A. It turned out his points were adjusted too wide and didn't close. Did you check the voltage on both sides of the points?

Charlie Stephens
Click to expand...

I will check now....should one point be 0 volts and the other one 6 volts?
 
If your points are about .014-,015 both, remove to condense wire and use the ohms scale. turn over engine and should see make and brake.
With the point wire off coil place meter there on volts. other end on battery neg.
should read about 5 volts if under dash resister is hooked up.
Also check the end of wire connector at coil make sure it not held on by few strands on wire.
 
George/Maine said:
If your points are about .014-,015 both, remove to condense wire and use the ohms scale. turn over engine and should see make and brake.
With the point wire off coil place meter there on volts. other end on battery neg.
should read about 5 volts if under dash resister is hooked up.
Also check the end of wire connector at coil make sure it not held on by few strands on wire.
Click to expand...
I pulled the hT wire out of the distributor and measure 6 volts with the ignition on.
So I guess the problem is with the distributor??
 
If I slowly hand crank the engine to see how close the points gets at the closest point and what should that distance be? 0.15 inch
 
The points should close. If they never close, the car will never run. They should open approx. .015 every time a cylinder fires, and then close again. DD
 
I don't know why you put the meter in the high tension hole better stick our finger in there. LOL

Try this test.
Once you see spark then get the point working.
At the high point of lobe that's were the air gap is .015 get a feeler gauge.

Here is a simple way to check coil and condener.
Put power to coil make sure there are no broken strands end of wire.
Remove points wire at coil
Now put a condenser on coil lug terminal wire end.
Take coil wire out of cap and hold 1/4 to grd.
leave other end in coil.
Get a piece of wire grd one end and touch conderser.
When you make contact and remove should see spark.
Turn key on.
 
(1) with key on.
(2)HT wire removed from dizzy, held 1/4 to ground .
(3) turn the motor till points are closed .
(4) open and close points with a screw driver .
(5) spark should jump off the HT wire .

Ted
 
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