1933 can't start after recent restart

FrankWest

FrankWest

Well-known member
Started my model B yesterday..aftee 20 years
ran great. Ran for one hour yesterday and One hour today. Nice solid sound. Today backed out of my garage and motor stalled.
Can't restart.
Thought out of gas.... Added more gas... gas in fuel pump.
While turning over I notice that the ammeter on tyhe insterment panel in not moving at all but dead stationary?
Could an electrical component have failed?
Did not check to see if i have a spark yet.
 
A wise ole' mechanic always told me...."as long as we are talking, it takes two things for a motor to run, gas and spark!" so you know you have gas.........!!!! I'd check the points and accompanying resistors. Figure out why you have no spark!!!!! (if you in fact are getting gas)
 
By the way, if the 33 you speak of is the picture in your avatar?? We have the same exact car too. What's the #of yours???
 
Frank,

The starter motor electrical circuit is not routed through the ammeter so that telltale is not indicative of an electrical problem per se. Check for spark next.
 
DavidG said:
Frank,

The starter motor electrical circuit is not routed through the ammeter so that telltale is not indicative of an electrical problem per se. Check for spark next.
Click to expand...
the starter is operating normally and the engine is turning.
 
I'd suspect something came loose like an ignition switch terminal nut or coil terminal.

Lonnie
 
Ignition points in long stored vehicle often fail quickly after a restart due to the oxide on the contact faces. If you have power to the coil, but no spark, or weak spark, the distributor needs to be repaired and set up on a machine.
 
"the distributor needs to be repaired and set up on a machine."

If the points ARE fouled, why would the distributor need "repaired?" ... and why set up on a machine? It's a Model B.
 
I think Supereal was referring to a V8.

Just clean the points up and make sure the distributor rotor (or cam) is nice and smooth. It is true that points can wear quickly after long storage due to roughness on the rotor.

Of course it could be something else, but that is an easy thing to try first.

Mart.
 
Mart said:
I think Supereal was referring to a V8.

Just clean the points up and make sure the distributor rotor (or cam) is nice and smooth. It is true that points can wear quickly after long storage due to roughness on the rotor.

Of course it could be something else, but that is an easy thing to try first.

Mart.
Click to expand...
Will do, thanks
It is freezing out here!
 
The machine reference was for the V8. My trifocals weren't working, I guess. Even so, be sure that the body and bushing is OK when replacing the points. The problem could also be due to a weak or open condenser, or a loose distributor mount that allowed it to move.
 
supereal said:
The machine reference was for the V8. My trifocals weren't working, I guess. Even so, be sure that the body and bushing is OK when replacing the points. The problem could also be due to a weak or open condenser, or a loose distributor mount that allowed it to move.
Click to expand...


NO SPARK!

Where can I find a photo of the key electrical components. so that I can check the connections. I have several ford books on the 1933, 1934
It was running beautiful and sounded like a new car and then just went.
I suspect something like the coil? is there a coil?
 
Didn't I post one (an illustration, not a photo of the four-cylinder electrical system) earlier for you?

Coil failures are not unknown, although much rarer with an original 4-cylinder coil than with a V-8 coil of the same era, and you have a coil. The original location was on the upper vertical portion of the firewall, more or less in the center, on the inside of the car. It shows in a photo that was posted along with the above referenced illustration.
 
Frank, trace the HT wire back from the centre of the distributor cap. On the other end of it is the coil.

Tried cleaning the points yet?

Mart.
 
DavidG said:
Didn't I post one (an illustration, not a photo of the four-cylinder electrical system) earlier for you?

Coil failures are not unknown, although much rarer with an original 4-cylinder coil than with a V-8 coil of the same era, and you have a coil. The original location was on the upper vertical portion of the firewall, more or less in the center, on the inside of the car. It shows in a photo that was posted along with the above referenced illustration.
Click to expand...

I found the ignition coil and I will try to trace the wires.
But, my ammeter has stopped moving since the problem. Befire the ammeter was jumping around during starting and when the car was running. Where shoudl I look next if i find no loose wires?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top