1933 can't start after recent restart

DavidG said:
Didn't I post one (an illustration, not a photo of the four-cylinder electrical system) earlier for you?

Coil failures are not unknown, although much rarer with an original 4-cylinder coil than with a V-8 coil of the same era, and you have a coil. The original location was on the upper vertical portion of the firewall, more or less in the center, on the inside of the car. It shows in a photo that was posted along with the above referenced illustration.
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If that was you that sent that, I great appreciate it.... there was a photo of the lights fuse and a diagram of the electrical...It was great... I am just trying to find it.
I recently had my computer crash and I am using another computer....
I will check under the fuse question...I think that is where you posted it.
Thanks... It was great...The photo was exactly like my car.
 
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DavidG said:
Didn't I post one (an illustration, not a photo of the four-cylinder electrical system) earlier for you?

Coil failures are not unknown, although much rarer with an original 4-cylinder coil than with a V-8 coil of the same era, and you have a coil. The original location was on the upper vertical portion of the firewall, more or less in the center, on the inside of the car. It shows in a photo that was posted along with the above referenced illustration.
Click to expand...
Here's you post! Thanks for the drawing! I greatly appreciate it!
 

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Still no spark
High tension wire badly crystallized and fractured
Replaced
No spark
New Development
Noticed badly frayed wires connected to battery junction (-) wire under steering
box in engine compartment. One wire comes from inside, Maybe ignition switch?) and another one to lights
May have eventually shorted as car was running?
I need some help in a picture of this connection under steering box.
I need to replace these exposed wires, but need to know what they are?
Any help will be appreciated.
 
The wires under the sterering box are for your lights and horn.

There is a single glass fuse on the backside of the dash, drivers side. Check it. It it is broke the engine will crank but no spark. Your problem is more then likley extremly simple.
If the fuse is good, get a test light and with the ignition "on", touch the point plate inside the distributor. If it lights up that tells you there is power to the distributor (eliminating the electrical on the switch inside the car)
If it does not light up, trace back and see where the test light lights up, and you will find your problem.
 
Chris said:
The wires under the sterering box are for your lights and horn.

There is a single glass fuse on the backside of the dash, drivers side. Check it. It it is broke the engine will crank but no spark. Your problem is more then likley extremly simple.
If the fuse is good, get a test light and with the ignition "on", touch the point plate inside the distributor. If it lights up that tells you there is power to the distributor (eliminating the electrical on the switch inside the car)
If it does not light up, trace back and see where the test light lights up, and you will find your problem.
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Thanks

Is that a 20 AMP fuse?
 
Unless it has been modified, the fuse is for the lighting circuit only. The ignition wiring was not routed through the fuse originally.
 
DavidG said:
Unless it has been modified, the fuse is for the lighting circuit only. The ignition wiring was not routed through the fuse originally.
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This wiring diagram and the fuse function is confusing...are you sure the fuse is only for the lights.
This diagram is from the ford 1933/1934 restoration manual
 

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  • 1933 Ford Electrical.jpg
    1933 Ford Electrical.jpg
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Frank, follow the "Y" wire. The starter switch is fed from the battery, the yellow "Y" wire goes from the starter switch to the ammeter. Then the "YB" wire goes to the ignition switch. The ignition is not fed through the fuse.

All the lights are fed from the "YB" wire from the other side of the fuse.

The diagram is very simple, it should be easy to follow. I find it best to just concentrate on one wire or circuit at a time.

Mart.
 
As stated above, the voltage coming from the battery hits one side of the fuse block. The other side of the fuse block is the light circuit.
 
CC33 said:
As stated above, the voltage coming from the battery hits one side of the fuse block. The other side of the fuse block is the light circuit.
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I have had that fuse blow 3 times since my car quit 2 weeks ago.
Could the generator cutoff be shorted resulting in a blown fuse?
 
Post a picture of your fuse block. Has any of the wiring been changed or moved around since you have been troubleshooting this problem?
 
CC33 said:
Post a picture of your fuse block. Has any of the wiring been changed or moved around since you have been troubleshooting this problem?
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No... and I think the fuse block is original... because I compared it with a photo sent to me ny someone on this forum under " where is the fuse"

THose wires under the steering block were badly frayed with exposed wires and bird caged vould these have shored out to the steering frame that may be positive right because of the positive battery terminal connected to the frame,
 
If you have frayed wires, they are the #1 suspect in determining why you are blowing fuses. Nearly every metal part on your car acts as a ground and any bare wire in the lighting system touching a nearby metal part will blow the fuse. At least you know that the fuse-blowing problem is confined to the lighting electrical circuit and not caused elsewhere in the electrical system.
 
DavidG said:
If you have frayed wires, they are the #1 suspect in determining why you are blowing fuses. Nearly every metal part on your car acts as a ground and any bare wire in the lighting system touching a nearby metal part will blow the fuse. At least you know that the fuse-blowing problem is confined to the lighting electrical circuit and not caused elsewhere in the electrical system.
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But this problem would not kill the spark right?
 
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