1933 can't start after recent restart
- Thread starter FrankWest
- Start date
FrankWest
Well-known member
I want to thank everyone on here for there help. I could not have done it without your experienced know how. One last question.... I here a lot about suppliers of cheap timing gears....No Good.
Where are the best places to buy quality timing gears...
I don't want to replace the crank shaft gear...
If it is possible I would just like to replace the timing gear with the best quality available. Any suggestion would be very much appreciated.
.
Where are the best places to buy quality timing gears...
I don't want to replace the crank shaft gear...
If it is possible I would just like to replace the timing gear with the best quality available. Any suggestion would be very much appreciated.
.
midgetracer
Well-known member
The best gear available is a bronze gear that Dan McEachern (510-532-8228) makes and sells. His web site is dmgears@yahoo.com. I've used his gear in a B motor with an OHV conversion and it is run hard with no problems. It may be worth a call to him, but the laminated one that Snyders sells should last another 80 years in your car.
FrankWest
Well-known member
Is there any reason why not to use an aluminum gear over laminated?
Noise, performance, unknown?
FrankWest
Well-known member
Good news as I hand turned the cam without the timing gear I watched the points and saw the closing and opening in the proper way...The gap is perfect...did not have to adjust///point close and touch and then open..
The engine sounded great before the timing wheel gave out....Looks like the problem was only the broken timing wheel.
The engine sounded great before the timing wheel gave out....Looks like the problem was only the broken timing wheel.
FrankWest
Well-known member
Getting ready to put the timing gear cover back on. The only gasket I could find is a cardboard one. It that the material that is used in this application? Should this be coated with something or just apply a slight amount of contact cement to hold in place and tighten?
FrankWest
Well-known member
I think it is paper as you said, I bought from Mac's.
Is this the typical gasket sealer material that permetex sells?
FrankWest
Well-known member
It started right up.
Finally completed the work.
New Bronze timing gear does not yet make any extra noise.
Thanks for all your help.
Now, I will start looking at the brakes.
They, work, but want to check them out well before running the car on the road.
Not sure how to start checking them.... any suggestions?
Finally completed the work.
New Bronze timing gear does not yet make any extra noise.
Thanks for all your help.
Now, I will start looking at the brakes.
They, work, but want to check them out well before running the car on the road.
Not sure how to start checking them.... any suggestions?
Mart
Well-known member
Well done Frank.
Can't advise too much on the brakes, I've only ever had hydraulics.
But common sense prevails. Check all the linkages and pivots. Check that everything that should move does freely without excessive free play.
People with more mech brake experience will chime in, I'm sure.
Mart.
Can't advise too much on the brakes, I've only ever had hydraulics.
But common sense prevails. Check all the linkages and pivots. Check that everything that should move does freely without excessive free play.
People with more mech brake experience will chime in, I'm sure.
Mart.
1931 flamingo
Well-known member
FRANK: CONGRATULATIONS ! ! ! ! ! ! !
Paul in CT
Paul in CT
DavidG
Well-known member
Frank,
You've got to start acquiring some printed reference material. As you already know that while this forum is very helpful, that help is by the spoonful. The reprinted '32 service bulletins will inform you well about your brakes and how to adjust them (the '32 and '33-'34 brake system are virtually identical in all respects and in terms of what you you need to know about your brakes they are completely identical).
You've got to start acquiring some printed reference material. As you already know that while this forum is very helpful, that help is by the spoonful. The reprinted '32 service bulletins will inform you well about your brakes and how to adjust them (the '32 and '33-'34 brake system are virtually identical in all respects and in terms of what you you need to know about your brakes they are completely identical).
Attachments
FrankWest
Well-known member
I have the service manuals, and several reprinted books also I have the original owners manuals for 4 cylinder and 1933, 1934 too.
My breaks function but. Luckily I live on a cul-de-sac so once I get plate on the car I can begin driving slowly around to check the functions better. The appearance on the brake housing plate cover is rust covered.
My breaks function but. Luckily I live on a cul-de-sac so once I get plate on the car I can begin driving slowly around to check the functions better. The appearance on the brake housing plate cover is rust covered.
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Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
This has probably already been covered but buy a good rear hub puller (or arrange to borrow one). The reproduction KR Wilson puller advertised in the V8 times comes to mind. Get a puller that pulls from the snout of the hub. If the hubs are properly installed (tight) and you try to use a cheap puller you desk damaging expensive parts.
Charlie Stephens
Charlie Stephens
DavidG
Well-known member
I second Charlie's advice, but do not start checking your brake system at the rear wheels. Start at the front where the hub and drum assemblies are easy to remove and replace. Pull them off one at a time and study what you see against what is shown in the illustration above and that in your service bulletins. Disconnect the brake rod where it attaches to the operating arm behind the brake backing plates and move it back and forth so that you see how the brakes operate and how the various parts relate to one another.
After you are confident that you understand how the brakes function, check the linings for both wear and contamination from grease or oil. Check also to see if the wearing surface on the inside of the brake drums is scored or pitted. If the linings are contaminated or worn down so that the rivet heads are no longer completely below the outer surface they need to be replaced. If they drums are scored or pitted, they should be turned down to a smooth surface (this has to be be done by someone who knows what they are doing as there is limit as to how far the drums can be turned down before they need to be replaced.) Check everything else exposed and attached to the brake backing plate for excessive wear as mechanical brakes can be good brakes, but only if all of the components are free of excessive wear. Now do the same thing for the other front wheel and only then tackle the rear wheels as removing the hubs can be a challenge as Charlie is suggesting.
Once you have checked out all four wheels, check for wear in the clevis pins (one on each end of each brake rod) and in the holes in which each clevis pin is inserted. Check for play in the brake cross shaft assembly on the center cross member (where all four brake rods attach). Wear in the cross shaft bushings is a common occurrence and its presence means that you will never get all four brakes working with the same effort until that wear is eliminated by replacing those bushings (there are better substitutes available today for the bushing material that Ford used originally).
Check for wear on all of clevis pins and their holes in the various arms on the cross shaft and on the rods to the brake pedal and hand brake. Replace any and all that are worn excessively. If the holes in the arms are worn excessively, they can be welded up and re-drilled to their original diameter or if only slightly worn drilled oversize to be used with new over-sized clevis pins (personally, I recommend the former and not the latter cure for wear).
That's enough of a to-do list to start with.
After you are confident that you understand how the brakes function, check the linings for both wear and contamination from grease or oil. Check also to see if the wearing surface on the inside of the brake drums is scored or pitted. If the linings are contaminated or worn down so that the rivet heads are no longer completely below the outer surface they need to be replaced. If they drums are scored or pitted, they should be turned down to a smooth surface (this has to be be done by someone who knows what they are doing as there is limit as to how far the drums can be turned down before they need to be replaced.) Check everything else exposed and attached to the brake backing plate for excessive wear as mechanical brakes can be good brakes, but only if all of the components are free of excessive wear. Now do the same thing for the other front wheel and only then tackle the rear wheels as removing the hubs can be a challenge as Charlie is suggesting.
Once you have checked out all four wheels, check for wear in the clevis pins (one on each end of each brake rod) and in the holes in which each clevis pin is inserted. Check for play in the brake cross shaft assembly on the center cross member (where all four brake rods attach). Wear in the cross shaft bushings is a common occurrence and its presence means that you will never get all four brakes working with the same effort until that wear is eliminated by replacing those bushings (there are better substitutes available today for the bushing material that Ford used originally).
Check for wear on all of clevis pins and their holes in the various arms on the cross shaft and on the rods to the brake pedal and hand brake. Replace any and all that are worn excessively. If the holes in the arms are worn excessively, they can be welded up and re-drilled to their original diameter or if only slightly worn drilled oversize to be used with new over-sized clevis pins (personally, I recommend the former and not the latter cure for wear).
That's enough of a to-do list to start with.