1933 can't start after recent restart

Trying to loosen Timing Nut. Motor no longer turning but remember the front motor mounts are off and as I attempt to loosen, the engine is noticeably moving in the direction of the force exerted. Nut has not yet cracked loose. Note I have been spraying each day for 3 days PB penetrating oil on nut. I just sprayed some more will try around lunch time. My some has air impact wrench...maybe can crack nut loose...Can it damage?

Each time I attempt to counter clockwise turn the Nut the motor noticable moves with the wrench. Maybe I can wedge a block of wood between the motor and frame?
No hurry.. I will wait...consider what to do next
 
You might wish to consider cutting a piece of 2" x 4" lumber and wedging it between the exhaust manifold and the inside of the chassis frame rail on the right side. Heat will not harm anything as long as it is used in moderation (don't boil the oil) and an impact wrench should be helpful.
 
Thanks Frank,
Just remember, in retrospect that those events that produced the greatest challenges also reaped the greatest victories.
We have all been through this and your perseverance and tenacity is inspiring to all of us busted knuckled wrenchers.
Don't rush the PB process.
 
I remember using a long pipe slipped over the breaker bar when I removed mine. It worked...but boy it was on there tight. Hang in there Frank...I'm rootin' for ya!
 
Order a new nut and Use a big chisel ,the shock will get it off You may be able to tidy the old nut up with a file after its off. The chances of you needing to change it again in the futcher will be slim .
 
I'd try using a mallet to shock the breaker bar. Use caution. An air impact gun would be good (I guess) if you can get a straight shot at it. A piece of stock welded to the special socket so you could whack it with a hammer would also probably be good. Hopefully (as Ted says) this will be a once in a lifetime job.

Mart.
 
I think your drive train is absorbing the energy,
I would put a piece of pipe through the pulley and the other end on frame.Then even block the pan.Then get a piece of pipe and lenghten to braker bar and pull down from pass side,even get hammer and hit end of braker bar.
 
Pat/Ohio said:
I remember using a long pipe slipped over the breaker bar when I removed mine. It worked...but boy it was on there tight. Hang in there Frank...I'm rootin' for ya!
Click to expand...

The long pipe on the breaker bar is a great idea! Thanks

Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.
Archimedes
 
He's alluding to a cheaper quality bar not being able to take the extra leverage of putting a length of tube on it.

(Non USA origin is weaker than good ole USA origin)

I don't necessarily agree or disagree, just 'splaining what was meant.

Mart.
 
Mart said:
He's alluding to a cheaper quality bar not being able to take the extra leverage of putting a length of tube on it.

(Non USA origin is weaker than good ole USA origin)

I don't necessarily agree or disagree, just 'splaining what was meant.

Mart.
Click to expand...
thanks
Harbor freight...must be low quality
all there tools say Pittsburgh but Must be Pittsburgh China, rather than
Pittsburgh, PA.
 
Guys, (I'm not a 4 banger type) this ain't a left hand thread, is it?

Just checking.

Mart.
 
Bought a 6 ft steel pipe to augment the breaker bar. New problem....
wrench keeps slipping off the nut. That thing is really on there. Two man job unless I glue the wrench on the nut with JB weld.
I can dissolve the epoxy after removed. But, Rather not glue in case the bond fails then I will have adhesive residue that will interfere with proper wrench fit.
I will have my son help me this weekend.
 
Trying to do things the money way isn't working for you.
They didn't have these tools in the day.
I would get a round heavy duty punch or chisel and a big hammer.
They sell new hex nuts so beat the snot out of it.
 
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