Harold Degand
Senior Member
Thanks Deuce Lover
1932 clutch issue
- Thread starter Harold Degand
- Start date
deuce lover
Well-known member
You're welcome.I looked to see if I had one in my leftover parts-no luck.
Harold Degand
Senior Member
Just wondering, is the bearing guide long enough ?
No risk of damaging anything ?
No risk of damaging anything ?
deuce lover
Well-known member
Have someone help you and push on the lever while you look inside and see how much it moves. I am trying to understand why you have this issue and maybe its the flywheel - not thick enough? Just a guess. Hopefully another member will chime in. Is your French Flathead the 4.2L and is the flywheel original to the engine? I am not familiar with those,only the 3.9L which is like the 59AB.
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Harold Degand
Senior Member
My engine is a 3.9 L. The flywheel is the same as Ford except they are drilled for 11’’ clutch.
I think the issue is the missing adjusters. So the plate isn’t thick enough.
With the rod in a normal size, I mean not full unscrewed or screwed, my pedal is close to the floor when the bearing contact the plate.
I think the issue is the missing adjusters. So the plate isn’t thick enough.
With the rod in a normal size, I mean not full unscrewed or screwed, my pedal is close to the floor when the bearing contact the plate.
Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
I've never used the clutch arm adjusters to adjust pedal play (on any car) - they come setup from the manufacturer to ensure even engagement with the throw-out bearing. They are not meant to be used to adjust pedal play (to the best of my knowledge).
When you put a new clutch disc in, it is probably thicker than your original one - which causes the fingers to be further down. I'd expect this . . . so the question is whether or not your throw-out bearing is TOO far out on the sleeve.
I agree with Deuce Lover - have somebody depress the pedal until you feel the clutch fingers and see where the throw-out bearing sleeve is located. You should be able to determine whether or not it is still correctly engaged with the sleeve - if so, then maybe change the rod as noted above.
Is the 39 trans using a 32 arm on the cross-shaft or a 39 arm on the cross shaft (they're completely different in length). As long as the throw-out bearing is correctly engaged with the sleeve, I'd have no problem "customizing" the length of the rod to accomplish the desired free-play.
When you put a new clutch disc in, it is probably thicker than your original one - which causes the fingers to be further down. I'd expect this . . . so the question is whether or not your throw-out bearing is TOO far out on the sleeve.
I agree with Deuce Lover - have somebody depress the pedal until you feel the clutch fingers and see where the throw-out bearing sleeve is located. You should be able to determine whether or not it is still correctly engaged with the sleeve - if so, then maybe change the rod as noted above.
Is the 39 trans using a 32 arm on the cross-shaft or a 39 arm on the cross shaft (they're completely different in length). As long as the throw-out bearing is correctly engaged with the sleeve, I'd have no problem "customizing" the length of the rod to accomplish the desired free-play.
Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
By "customizing", I've cut them before (close to the eyelet), added some additional rod material in the middle and TIG welded them back together to achieve whatever length I needed for whatever car I was working on.
Harold Degand
Senior Member
The new disk have the same thickness than the 11’’ from the truck.
I have a late 32 arm release.
I’ll check ASAP when somebody depress clutch.
I can’t be the only one with this problem.
Thank you all for your replies anyway.
I have a late 32 arm release.
I’ll check ASAP when somebody depress clutch.
I can’t be the only one with this problem.
Thank you all for your replies anyway.
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Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
Given your setup, I wonder if the clutch arms are in the right location when you bolt it down to the flywheel? I'd probably take the original pressure plate and disc, install them and use some sort of flat disc on top of the fingers and measure the depth to the flywheel. I'd do the same with the new setup - just so you have a frame of reference as to how far down the levers are as compared to your 11" setup.
For your pedal to be that different with the new clutch sure sounds like a clutch plate issue at this point in the discussion. Also, I'd want to talk to a clutch manufacturer - where you can get somebody who understands exactly what you're talking about. I tend to deal with flywheel/clutch manufacturers and don't just buy these types of components from the "general" parts houses.
My recent flathead flywheel/clutch builds have been done by RAM (high performance and racing stuff), have not used a stock clutch in years on my own builds. I have used Ft. Wayne for multiple street performance and stock type builds with no problems.
For your pedal to be that different with the new clutch sure sounds like a clutch plate issue at this point in the discussion. Also, I'd want to talk to a clutch manufacturer - where you can get somebody who understands exactly what you're talking about. I tend to deal with flywheel/clutch manufacturers and don't just buy these types of components from the "general" parts houses.
My recent flathead flywheel/clutch builds have been done by RAM (high performance and racing stuff), have not used a stock clutch in years on my own builds. I have used Ft. Wayne for multiple street performance and stock type builds with no problems.
Lawson Cox
Well-known member
What's the matter with cutting it off with a hacksaw? Duh.
Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
It is too short . . . by at least an inch or so.
Harold Degand
Senior Member
Here are the pics !
#1 the rod and the clevis assembled.
#2 the clutch pedal on the normal position
#3 the pedal when the bearing contact the pressure plate
#4 the gap when bearing contact the plate
#5 gap when depressing the clutch. Can’t go further, the pedal contact the steering box
#1 the rod and the clevis assembled.
#2 the clutch pedal on the normal position
#3 the pedal when the bearing contact the pressure plate
#4 the gap when bearing contact the plate
#5 gap when depressing the clutch. Can’t go further, the pedal contact the steering box
Attachments
Harold Degand
Senior Member
In post «#8, deuce lover posted 3 pics. In the 2nd one, the bearing isn’t fitted, but it is on 3rd pic. Is it what you ment ?
It is the same on mine.
Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
The hub/bearing looks standard to me . . . it is just WAY forward before it engages with the clutch forks/fingers. I think there is something wrong with the clutch and/or disc combination - that results in the clutch fingers being way closer to the flywheel than the original clutch you had in it.
Just to ask an obvious question - is the clutch disc correctly installed and the springs are NOT hitting the flywheel bolts?
Just to ask an obvious question - is the clutch disc correctly installed and the springs are NOT hitting the flywheel bolts?
Harold Degand
Senior Member
I’m pretty sure the problem come by the missing fingers adjusters.
The disk is in the right position
Attachments
Harold Degand
Senior Member
You’re right. I ment, there's no adjuster on the new plate