J Franklin
Well-known member
You need to get the kiddos trained to sleep with you working. You'll gat a lot more done!
1932 BB Dump
- Thread starter Redpond2
- Start date
Redpond2
Member
Would be ideal, working on it!
He's only 9 months old and his crib is directly above all the noise so, for now, his sleep gets priority. Leaves me time to slow down and get much needed research done as well. I have a tendency to put the cart ahead of the horse, so research is crucial for this project!
DavidG
Well-known member
Nathan,
If it were mine, since he will be removing the valves anyway, I'd go all the way and have the block stripped of bolt-on parts and properly cleaned (with something not harmful to babbitt bearings.)
Add a distributor to your wanted list. That's an A and inferior to the B with its centrifugal spark advance rather than the A's manual advance. The fuel pump is installed upside down so I cannot see enough of it to say if it is for sure an original, but from what I can see, it looks to be one. Likely it should be rebuilt, which is an easy DIY project.
If it were mine, since he will be removing the valves anyway, I'd go all the way and have the block stripped of bolt-on parts and properly cleaned (with something not harmful to babbitt bearings.)
Add a distributor to your wanted list. That's an A and inferior to the B with its centrifugal spark advance rather than the A's manual advance. The fuel pump is installed upside down so I cannot see enough of it to say if it is for sure an original, but from what I can see, it looks to be one. Likely it should be rebuilt, which is an easy DIY project.
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sugarmaker
Well-known member
Nate,
This all sounds very familiar! I think the engine was put together with good intenension of it running but the fuel pump was probably not going to work well as David noted being installed upside down.
Somewhat Like my project the 90 year old engine syndrome, has got its grip on you. Your going to be fine. Hope your machinist is not on the same time schdule as mine! I think I was supposed to get a reworked B engine block in April. Begining to wonder what year!
Thanks for the pictures! Good documentation! Your valve area is way cleaner than mine was!
Regards,
Chris
This all sounds very familiar! I think the engine was put together with good intenension of it running but the fuel pump was probably not going to work well as David noted being installed upside down.
Somewhat Like my project the 90 year old engine syndrome, has got its grip on you. Your going to be fine. Hope your machinist is not on the same time schdule as mine! I think I was supposed to get a reworked B engine block in April. Begining to wonder what year!
Thanks for the pictures! Good documentation! Your valve area is way cleaner than mine was!
Regards,
Chris
Clem Clement
Well-known member
Bodascioous sweet truck.
informal thoughts:
Fix the brakes, tires, safety aspects and go truckin. Everyone likes a truckin man.
Ask Dave about havin2 taillights. Model A; did not have but one; Safer.
Think about a high brake light on the tailgate. I have a repainted black light and bracket. Free for postage.(Don't know if is 32)
get a new wiring harness. Tyree Harris does a great job. You will need good wires to reach grounds to the taillights.
check winshield for safety glass.
Pull valve cover and cleanout thoroughly . Look for 4 old passages on main bearings. Clean with pipe cleaners and rattle can cleaners.
use kite string to hold pan gasket in place
Use crow bar of big screwdriver to pop dip tray loose. Clean fins well as they are used a dirt as traps.
For rattle checks, wack the frame edges with a rubber BFT. Looosenesseses will sing off tune.
Use bike innertube to de-rattle tailgate chain. Put a drain hole in the lowest part of the tube.
What is the name of your rig? (Dumpy Woumpy ain't so good)
How many beer keg can you carry. I got 4 in my 29 Model A +hay bails and chicks
informal thoughts:
Fix the brakes, tires, safety aspects and go truckin. Everyone likes a truckin man.
Ask Dave about havin2 taillights. Model A; did not have but one; Safer.
Think about a high brake light on the tailgate. I have a repainted black light and bracket. Free for postage.(Don't know if is 32)
get a new wiring harness. Tyree Harris does a great job. You will need good wires to reach grounds to the taillights.
check winshield for safety glass.
Pull valve cover and cleanout thoroughly . Look for 4 old passages on main bearings. Clean with pipe cleaners and rattle can cleaners.
use kite string to hold pan gasket in place
Use crow bar of big screwdriver to pop dip tray loose. Clean fins well as they are used a dirt as traps.
For rattle checks, wack the frame edges with a rubber BFT. Looosenesseses will sing off tune.
Use bike innertube to de-rattle tailgate chain. Put a drain hole in the lowest part of the tube.
What is the name of your rig? (Dumpy Woumpy ain't so good)
How many beer keg can you carry. I got 4 in my 29 Model A +hay bails and chicks
sugarmaker
Well-known member
Nate,
Clem and I are all over your truck!
He has some great suggestions! I got so many good ideas, I am still overwhelmed! Go slow keeping you plans and goals in mind. These can take big chunks of money and time.
Regards,
Chris
Clem and I are all over your truck!
He has some great suggestions! I got so many good ideas, I am still overwhelmed! Go slow keeping you plans and goals in mind. These can take big chunks of money and time.
Regards,
Chris
Redpond2
Member
Thanks Clem! Already had the pan off (super clean, no sludge) and valve cover off(crusty and sticking guides). Got the engine pulled tonight and clutch/pressure plate look like they’re almost 90 years old. Going to get new clutch disk and resurface flywheel and replace ring gear. Throw out bearing looks newer and in good shape.
Engine will be off, over the next few days time, for a valve job and an overall inspection by a machinist.
Tank and radiator are off to get boiled. Local radiator shop looked at tank and thinks that procedure will be sufficient, it’s really not that bad.
Front end inspected, everything is tight up there, oil pump disassembled and inspected, looks good as well.
Got gauges on the way, original hood latches and some other misc. parts.
Any insight on how the fuel sending unit works? Waiting on my 32 book, I’m assuming vacuum line to the gauge??
Also haven’t had any luck getting rear drums off. Is a puller needed? Are they held in with a woodruff key? Don’t want to beat on em too hard if the books going to tell me an easier way.
Great idea for the tubes to quiet the chains!
And I will have to get back to you on how many kegs and women I can fit in the bed, I don’t think I’ll find the number by weight limit, but rather, by real estate!
No good names have come up just yet. It’s just the old truck for now, I’m sure something will come up naturally!
Not much in the way of pictures tonight, I’m whooped!
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sugarmaker
Well-known member
Nate,
You have been busy! Great update on your dump truck!
Good progress and plan too.
Looking forward to drooling on your truck next week.
Regards,
Chris
You have been busy! Great update on your dump truck!
Good progress and plan too.
Looking forward to drooling on your truck next week.
Regards,
Chris
petehoovie
Well-known member
Redpond2
Member
Redpond2
Member
I believe it’ll be your truck that will be needing cleaned up! Excited to see the potential this thing has. In person, I expect will be so much better than through the barn, as great as it is.
If I keep at it there won’t be much but a shell for you to look at! I better slow down for a few days!
Thanks
DavidG
Well-known member
In the third photo of #70, it would appear that the right lower corner of the flywheel housing is MIA, which is not uncommon as the castings are weak in the two corners. Evidently the problem must have shown up in 1932 as the '33-''34 version of the four-cylinder flywheel housings are beefier in both corners.
sugarmaker
Well-known member
BobC,
Wow you get serious when it comes to getting wheels off!
Nate,
I used a three leg Snap On brand (old) puller that pulls on the wheel studs. I had to do some slight mods to the puller. The drums/hubs are a tapered fit on to axle. I had some tense moments before it came off like a shothgun blast. Lots of turning/ tightening/ beating and waiting!
Having the right tooling is important. The rear hubs probably have not been off for 80 years! They like where they are at and are happy. But they have to come off!
David is so observent, I missed that totaly, But I see the casting is broken.
Is there a replacement out there? Numbers wont match if you replace it.
Regards,
Chris
Wow you get serious when it comes to getting wheels off!
Nate,
I used a three leg Snap On brand (old) puller that pulls on the wheel studs. I had to do some slight mods to the puller. The drums/hubs are a tapered fit on to axle. I had some tense moments before it came off like a shothgun blast. Lots of turning/ tightening/ beating and waiting!
Having the right tooling is important. The rear hubs probably have not been off for 80 years! They like where they are at and are happy. But they have to come off!
David is so observent, I missed that totaly, But I see the casting is broken.
Is there a replacement out there? Numbers wont match if you replace it.
Regards,
Chris
Redpond2
Member
I’m glad you guys caught that, as I had missed it entirely. Yup has a chunk out that looks like it should have a bolt in that spot. I would very much like to keep this truck numbers matching if possible. I know cast is hard to work with as far as repairs but have you guys had or heard of any success in building a new ear onto the bellhousing?
This is interesting. I would have thought it was sacrilegious to change numbers on a block, on in this case flywheel housing. May be worth diving into, before I do that. What would the ramifications be if I, say, put this back in as is? Will I be dealing with leaks? Or run the risk of the flywheel housing totally shattering? I know the truck won’t be worked nearly as hard as it was in the 30’s so my thought process is “ yeah, it’s broken, but is it detrimental?”
On a side now, through some more research and FB, found this engine block to be a diamond block. Date stamp shows it to have been produced September 26th of 1938. So that gives ones reason why not to care so much about the flywheel housing, would still be cool to have it matching numbers with the original if feasible.
Your guys thoughts??
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DavidG
Well-known member
The flywheel housing is separate from the engine block and when it comes to '32s, "matching numbers" does not mean that the engine and chassis are original one to the other, but rather only that the numbers stamped on the transmission case (v8s) or flywheel housing (fours) match those on the left side chassis frame rail. Yours is a good case in point, the original engine is long gone; all that is left of the original engine/transmission assembly is the flywheel housing and presumably the transmission (and we don't even know that for sure in the case of a four). In my opinion, far too much worth is attributed to "matching numbers" when so little is known of the real service history of nearly all vehicles of this vintage. Do they run better if the numbers match?
Repair of broken cast iron in an area of stress (unless your flywheel housing was dropped along the way) is problematic compared to broken steel components. There is/was a good reason for the material to be there in the first place and a good reason for its absence ninety years later. If it were my truck, I'd value the integrity of a re-numbered unbroken flywheel housing far more than the intangible value of unaltered "matching numbers".
Repair of broken cast iron in an area of stress (unless your flywheel housing was dropped along the way) is problematic compared to broken steel components. There is/was a good reason for the material to be there in the first place and a good reason for its absence ninety years later. If it were my truck, I'd value the integrity of a re-numbered unbroken flywheel housing far more than the intangible value of unaltered "matching numbers".
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Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
I'm with you David - it is much better to have things repaired and running as they should be, than worrying about a component that needs to be replaced. The only number that really matters is the one on the frame and on the title (they should match) . . . every else can be different and frequently is (due to maintenance and the long history of "keeping it in service" - where nobody really cared about a stamp on the cast iron).
The transmission that came in my 32 was a 32 transmission - but its numbers didn't match the title/frame. The engine was a 24 stud from the 40's (obviously the original was replaced somewhere along the way . . . usually because there was a solid reason too).
These cars/trucks were driven and used a lot during their first couple decades of service - and given WWII, folks did anything they could just to keep them running and in use . . . because getting a "new car" was not possible, even if you somehow had the $$$.
The transmission that came in my 32 was a 32 transmission - but its numbers didn't match the title/frame. The engine was a 24 stud from the 40's (obviously the original was replaced somewhere along the way . . . usually because there was a solid reason too).
These cars/trucks were driven and used a lot during their first couple decades of service - and given WWII, folks did anything they could just to keep them running and in use . . . because getting a "new car" was not possible, even if you somehow had the $$$.
sugarmaker
Well-known member
Nate,
Dimond block, 1938, learned another tidbit of information. I would agree with all the above. And only Chevy guys are obsessed with numbers matching stuff. I would not try a repair on your broken bell housing, very tough project in my opinion. You may have a used bell housing headed your way soon.
Regards,
Chris
Dimond block, 1938, learned another tidbit of information. I would agree with all the above. And only Chevy guys are obsessed with numbers matching stuff. I would not try a repair on your broken bell housing, very tough project in my opinion. You may have a used bell housing headed your way soon.
Regards,
Chris