1931 Victoria Wood
- Thread starter MKERWIN
- Start date
james heider
Senior Member
Mike,
If you send me your direct email address I can send you alot of pictures of my victoria. It is still open and I can photograph all the wood for you.
james.heider@yahoo.com
If you send me your direct email address I can send you alot of pictures of my victoria. It is still open and I can photograph all the wood for you.
james.heider@yahoo.com
Terry NJ
Well-known member
FWIW, I am doing the complete wood on my TS (Town Sedan) I can only offer these suggestions;
I am using the original type of wood that Henry used, Ash. There's Walnut in there too, but I'm looking past that. Dried ash is pretty light and strong, they make axe handles out of it.
Get a Vernier caliper to measure the old wood with and duplicate everything to within .005. Yes, you can do it! Here and there you may miss it now and then, but you'll have a much better job if you try.
Watch your angles! Many pieces have very subtle angles on them of 1 or 2 degrees. You may not notice them at first. You will need to measure and duplicate them pretty close. Getting a 12" scale with a protracter head will help immensily. They're usually available in flea markets for a few dollars.
Most radii will have to be taken off old pieces or measured directly from the curves in the body. Making wood patterns will be helpful.
Dont't drill any bolt holes till you're sure everything fits and in the case of doors, does not exceed the original size.
You may need to skim off, say, .030 of a side of a piece. The way I do it is to make a rip fence for my saw out of a 2x4 and position it wher I want it with only .030 of the blade sticking out of the side, This is with the blade depresed below the deck height of the saw. I clamp it into position (The 2x4), start the saw and bring the blade upwards into the 2X4. With a 3/32 or .093 blade. 1/16th or .060 will be in the rip fence and .030 of the blade will be exposed. Just run your piece along the rip fence and viola! It will take .030 of your piece. I hope this helps!
You will need at last a 3x18 belt sander which can be gotten in a flea market for $10-$15. A good place for belts is Royce Sales in Canada. Google Royce Sales
Terry
I am using the original type of wood that Henry used, Ash. There's Walnut in there too, but I'm looking past that. Dried ash is pretty light and strong, they make axe handles out of it.
Get a Vernier caliper to measure the old wood with and duplicate everything to within .005. Yes, you can do it! Here and there you may miss it now and then, but you'll have a much better job if you try.
Watch your angles! Many pieces have very subtle angles on them of 1 or 2 degrees. You may not notice them at first. You will need to measure and duplicate them pretty close. Getting a 12" scale with a protracter head will help immensily. They're usually available in flea markets for a few dollars.
Most radii will have to be taken off old pieces or measured directly from the curves in the body. Making wood patterns will be helpful.
Dont't drill any bolt holes till you're sure everything fits and in the case of doors, does not exceed the original size.
You may need to skim off, say, .030 of a side of a piece. The way I do it is to make a rip fence for my saw out of a 2x4 and position it wher I want it with only .030 of the blade sticking out of the side, This is with the blade depresed below the deck height of the saw. I clamp it into position (The 2x4), start the saw and bring the blade upwards into the 2X4. With a 3/32 or .093 blade. 1/16th or .060 will be in the rip fence and .030 of the blade will be exposed. Just run your piece along the rip fence and viola! It will take .030 of your piece. I hope this helps!
You will need at last a 3x18 belt sander which can be gotten in a flea market for $10-$15. A good place for belts is Royce Sales in Canada. Google Royce Sales
Terry
Last edited:
james heider
Senior Member
Terry,
Didn't you buy a wood kit or are you building from scratch?
Didn't you buy a wood kit or are you building from scratch?
Roadster62
Well-known member
Are joints glued & screwed or just screwed?
Terry NJ
Well-known member
James, I bought the top and bottom wood kits because they were so far gone I couldn't get reliable dimensions off them. I'm making the body and door wood and it's "Fun". I was lucky, there was an Ash tree in my backyard that had to come down and I milled it into lumber and I'm using that. Plus my wife's Pergula! I have one of the most complex, extensive and expensive wood frames that Henry ever built (Briggs T.S.) There are a lot of mortise and tenon joints, angles, radii, and just P.I.T.A. woodwork. Thank God I think I have to skills to do it. Costs so far are about $1900 for the two wood kits and a savings of about $ 23-2400. This is the cost of the body wood and the door wood. Some times I get only one or two operations for one or two pieces done in a day. Mostly more, but this work goes slow.
Terry
Terry
Terry NJ
Well-known member
I don't know, Haven't got to joining them yet. That question has been on my mind too. I think at least the Mortise and Tenons will be glued and screwed. I don't know what glue to use. Elmers Carpenters glue might stand up but after a while I don't know what rough roads will do to it. Also, How about putting non hardening silicon in behind the wood to "Bed" it against squeaking later? Just a thought!
Terry
Terry