1930 Model A Clutch

I think he needs to bite the bullet and swap out the clutch anyway. All that grease and disk material spewed all over everything can't make for a good time.

Pulling the engine and/or trans out will give him an opportunity to inspect the pressure plate to see if its gone the way of the dodo, or if it can be adjusted and salvaged. Also a great opportunity to clean up or replace the throwout bearing.

More than a couple hours of work, but well worth the effort and learning curve, and with a good socket set and an engine crane, its a DIY job.

I've pulled an engine in a couple hours, allow for a couple hours working on the clutch, and another couple hours putting the engine back. It's a good project to spend around a case of beer and the les andrews book.
 
I'm wondering what the free play is like? That would tell you a lot if it is an adjustment problem, but I agree it looks like a mess and really needs to be taken apart and looked at.
 
I'm wondering what the free play is like? That would tell you a lot if it is an adjustment problem, but I agree it looks like a mess and really needs to be taken apart and looked at.

From what i understood from his problem, the pedal is all travel and the clutch never disengages.

The common idea here is he either adjusted the free play in the wrong direction (effectively pulling the throwout away from the plate, instead of toward), or, the pressure plate is bad and he needs to replace the whole clutch.
 
It still looks to me from the last picture that he has a problem with the top finger.

But, maybe I'm looking at it wrong.

It looks that way to me also, but it could just be a camera trick. I wish the OP would do the adjustment and check I mentioned and come back with what he found out.

All the neighborhood mechanics have $500 riding on the answer, and we are wondering who wins the pot?:D
 
It sounds like your clutch release arm may have broken, pin on arm or possible fork ( which would be highly unusual. If it's the clutch arm that is totally fixable from outside of the car. Look at the arm with relation to the shaft and see if it is turning or the arm is split. You can obtain a new arm and pin and fix it where you are at. From your description my bet is on that. Check that out and post an update.
Larry Shepard

I am with Larry on his early post. Given his description that the clutch went from fully functional to not working on a single shift, I would think there is a failure related to the clutch release shaft. I would guess it is either the clutch release fork pin or the fork has failed where the release shaft passes through it. I have replace two failed clutch release forks in the last 5 years. They split where the release shaft passes through on the side you cannot see through the inspection cover and loose the ability to stay properly oriented on the release shaft. Please post your finding when you get into the repair.
 
It looks that way to me also, but it could just be a camera trick. I wish the OP would do the adjustment and check I mentioned and come back with what he found out.

All the neighborhood mechanics have $500 riding on the answer, and we are wondering who wins the pot?:D





I agree. We haven't heard anything in awhile.
We don't know if he contacted the fella on 17 th Ave or not and I wish I knew someone I trusted in that town to help him. I would have been happy to help him. Its a long way up to the main land to have to drive that monster with no clutch.
 
I would be very surprised with that much grease , it wouldn't slip or chatter . new clutch disc & major cleaning
 
Just got back into town and found time to deal with this clutch problem again. After the latest comments I decide that maybe the trunnion arm and clutch fork release needed a closer look.

Here's the clutch fork. New one on the way. I guess the pin just drives in with a mallet?
 

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Here's a picture of me adjusting the last pressure plate I installed for a club member. This pressure plate came from Little Dearborn in Minneaoplis and was very easy to adjust because they use self locking nuts. I've seen the adjustment listed as anything from 5/8 to 3/4". I used 11/16", but the main thing is that all 6 fingers are even.

Looking at this picture, and looking at your green pressure plate, it looks like your fingers could also be OK, and that's why I suggested readjusting the linkage and have someone step on the pedal while you are under the car looking for a cracked arm, or sheared pin.

Any update?

Tom's top finger looks OK to me:p:p I must be missing something here:eek:
 
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