1929 Model A new to the A world

K

k24556

Member
I'm new o the Model A world just bought an almost complete 1929 A. Body is really straight. In the process of evicting the current resident mice and the resident black snake. The snake has been eating well but the mice are very prolific.

I have 10,000 questions, and this looks like the best place for answers.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0661.jpg
    IMG_0661.jpg
    62.8 KB · Views: 336
Welcome. I only joined last month. Seem like a great bunch of guys. Lots of knowledge. Fire away!

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
Welcome. The first thing I want to caution you about is the belt molding that goes around the cab. Be very careful if and when you decide to remove this. They are very fragile and very scarce. In fact, one of the hardest original parts to find or replace. No reproductions are available.

Enjoy your new find. Lots of fun ahead.
 
Also, think about keeping that trunk. Cars with original trunks are also hard to find. Many if not most have been converted to rumble seats, which are cute but dangerous in today's traffic.
 
Welcome, and it looks like you found a nice driver. What are your plans for the car?
I'd drive it as is rather than restore it, because it looks good just the way it is. Even if you do restore it, at least drive it for a year and really get to know it and like it, then decide if it isn't better to leave it as is.

Lube all the moving parts and enjoy the ride. :)
 
mainly a driver. I am finding a few things deep in that need fixing. And North Carolina has strict title laws. It has to be inspected for road worthy before it can be tagged. Thought about just fixing to driver status, but I think the fenders would only get worse as far as rusting goes, and now is the time to stop the progression to rust.

The previous owner modified to hydraulic brakes and the engine has been replaced, so it probably never would be a show car.
 
Welcome to the barn! I agree with Tom, drive the ad as is and buy the parts as you learn which parts go where and which are the best quality repos. I prefers original if at all possible as they are generally better in quality.

Mike
 
Welcome, hope you have found a local chapter to join. It is nice to have some local contacts on where to find things and get them done. It is a great hobby and hope to see you on the road soon.
 
WELCOME!

I agree you should drive it for a while to really learn about and enjoy you car.

Then restore it if:

1. You decide you would like a sharp driver (You don't need to create a "show car" to produce a model A that you are proud of.) and that will last long enough to pass down to your kids.

or

2. You want to grow your skills set and enjoy the restoration process.
 
k24556 said:
mainly a driver. I am finding a few things deep in that need fixing. And North Carolina has strict title laws. It has to be inspected for road worthy before it can be tagged. Thought about just fixing to driver status, but I think the fenders would only get worse as far as rusting goes, and now is the time to stop the progression to rust.

The previous owner modified to hydraulic brakes and the engine has been replaced, so it probably never would be a show car.
Click to expand...

there are ways to stop the rust while maintaining the patina. you repaint one thing and the things around it look bad so before you notice the whole car is painted haha.
 
Welcome. Looks good. I'd leave it the way it should s also. At least for a while then work on it little by little.
 
call you K for short, OK?
I would find another DMV place in NC, both of my A's required no inspection to get plates and or title. the DMV trooper did come out and look at engine numbers so I could get the title. No inspection either time including my 73mustang and 57 thunderbird.
good luck with the great find, welcome
 
Thanks for all the kind words and the videos are awesome. Used one to solve a problem. I'm finding out some of the history of the "repairs" that were done over the years.
1. Model B engine&trans, but locked up (not worried, though)
2. moved the radius rods to the frame (cobbed up welding job that needs fixing bad)
3. Hydraulic brakes. nothing but rust in the system and broken hoses.
4. Cobbed up job on the clutch release lever to pedal.
5. Cobbed up job on the cross shaft for the brake and clutch pedals.

Had to lift the body off the frame to verify the VIN since the engine is different, and to fix the welds made that look like a seagull flew over and dropped a load.

Here's the body lifted off (luckily I'm already a gearhead and have a 2-post lift):
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3383.jpg
    IMG_3383.jpg
    71.7 KB · Views: 104
I suggest doing a string test of the right frame rail top while the body is off. It may save you some grief later when you try to align the hood.
 
I would love to come across one in that condition, get some good rust remover and stabilize the rust , a good clear job and people would much rather come up and look at that because they are afraid to get too close on one with a shinny paint job . Good luck
 
30yr32 said:
I suggest doing a string test of the right frame rail top while the body is off. It may save you some grief later when you try to align the hood.
Click to expand...

Good point, now is certainly the time to remove any frame sag, which is usually right at the rear motor mounts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top