1921 Ford Model TT

R

raidmagic

Junior Member
Hey guys I was directed here by the H.A.M.B.

My bosses father died recently and she has asked me to get this truck running for her. They are going through all of his things and this has been in the garage for a bunch of years without running. What types of things do I need to know to protect this while getting it running? I see the suspension has caps you remove and pour oil in for grease purposes. The engine and drivetrain are supposed to be all original sans the alt. It was restored 10 or more years ago. The body was rebuilt to appear stock as best they could based on pictures they had of it. What is the value on something like this? I'm thinking of buying it from her but don't know enough about it. Anything you can offer would be great. It's in my shop now so any other pics that might be needed I can take. Please excuse the weird black out in the pic. I don't like posting my kids on the web.


 
Where are you at. The best thing might be for you to find a T person near you to help you out. Probably wouldn't hate to change the oil, being you don't know the engine I would use Non-detergent 30; no oil filter to catch the dirt.
First would be is to see if you have spark. Then get gas. Does it have electric start? If so get a good six volt battery and hook it up. Do not ever put a battery connection to the top of the trans cover or hogshead as us T people call. Turn on the key and see if it buzzes. If not pull down on the left lever behind the wheel. If you get the coils buzzing as this lever moves, then you may have adequate spark to start. When starting the car leave this lever up, which retards the spark.
Next is there gas in the tank? If so you'll probably have to clean out the entire fuel system, especially if the gas is old.

This is very general and is an easy way to check things out. If I were closer, I'd come over and give you a hand. Check on these and follow up with more questions.
 
Good info and thanks for the link. So the basics of starting an old car works here I just need to learn the specifics of this truck. I'll go through the steps and keep you informed. BTW I am in Tampa Fl. I'll update my profile.
 
Even in great shape these trucks rarely bring over ten grand. I think six or seven for this one would be reasonable.

With no battery carrier showing, I'm guessing it's a non-starter truck. A lot of them are. That should be no problem.

The Model T (and TT) is relatively simple, but it contains some surprises. If you're going to be working on it, start here. Mark's link will tell you what to do. This will help with how to do it.

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html
 
Nice truck! I have a '25 TT and use 10/30 detergent oil. Get a local T guy for help on the ignition, it's different but simple. PK
 
I took some more pics to share with you all and I have a question. Is there any way to tell if this had been converted to 12v? I need a battery and am not sure. It does have an Alt. Which you can see in the below pics. I also took pics of the coils maybe you can tell me from that. Thanks

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You can get an alternator in 6 or 12 volt so the only way to know is to look close at it. It should be stamped some where or at least marked. The starter looks stock 6 volt but that's no help as some people use 12 without modification to it. The coils don't care if it 6,8, 12 volts.
By the way the drivers side shot of the engine, you might have a freeze crack along the front edge. No big deal and it's an easy fix with JB Weld.
 
That coolant leak at the front of the engine could just be from a leaking head gasket. The presence of a water pump suggests the possibility of a bad radiator. The T was designed to run without a pump, and the addition of one is often a band aid applied to a wounded cooling system. The radiator may be OK. With a thorough cleaning of the cooling system, the vehicle should run without the pump without overheating. If it doesn't, it's time for a new radiator or a recore. Radiators go bad because ninety years of vibration separate the fins from the tubes. Without solid physical contact between the tubes and the fins, heat isn't transferred to the fins and into the air. The radiator doesn't radiate anymore.
 
I saw the leak at the front but figured it was from leaky hose or outlet. The rust stain I am talking about looks to be coming from the underside you can see it between the front and rear bushings on the water pump. A number of T blocks are cracked there and on the underside behind the water inlet.
 
Hello, sorry I do not have any details to add to address your question, just wanted to say that the truck looks great and I look forward to seeing the outcome, hopefully you can get it running ( which you will) and have an opportunity to buy it.

Jim
47 ford
 
OK I've gone through everything and I am going to try to start the truck tonight. Any advice on how to operate it? Is the lever on the left the timing lever or the throttle? I'd imagine I will be able to tell when I play with it but I haven't even looked at the controls. There are 3 pedals. What are their functions? It doesn't have gears. I was told the left pedal is for high speed, the middle is for reverse and the right is a brake, is that correct?
Anything else you want to offer I'm all ears. I will be trying to start it after 5 today so there's time to save me :D
 
You may get more and better advice here's what I would do
1. get the rear wheels off the ground on jack stands
2. block the front wheels
3. disconnect the wire from the magneto pole, top center of the hogshead (bell housing)
4. If you haven't determined the voltage of the alternator disconnect it
5. check for a free flow of clean fresh fuel to the carburator
6 gently close then reopen the needel valae 1 1/2 turns
7. set spark control rod, left side of steering column full up this is the retarded position and will prevent "kick back" which can damage the starter or your arm if hand cranking
8. turn the ignition to battery, usually counter clockwise
9.Put in a 12V battery and crank in short burst, prolonged cranking of the starter at 12 V will burn it out in a hurry
10.when it starts, it will they all do!, adjust needle valve for smooth running
Very good looking truck by the way
GOOD LUCK
 
bobthebldr said:
You may get more and better advice here's what I would do
1. get the rear wheels off the ground on jack stands
2. block the front wheels
3. disconnect the wire from the magneto pole, top center of the hogshead (bell housing)
4. If you haven't determined the voltage of the alternator disconnect it
5. check for a free flow of clean fresh fuel to the carburator
6 gently close then reopen the needel valae 1 1/2 turns
7. set spark control rod, left side of steering column full up this is the retarded position and will prevent "kick back" which can damage the starter or your arm if hand cranking
8. turn the ignition to battery, usually counter clockwise
9.Put in a 12V battery and crank in short burst, prolonged cranking of the starter at 12 V will burn it out in a hurry
10.when it starts, it will they all do!, adjust needle valve for smooth running
Very good looking truck by the way
GOOD LUCK
Click to expand...

All good advice;
I would also pull the hand brake on to release the clutch - hopefully
Also it would be wise to check if running the alternator disconnected will harm it.

When it is running the left pedal down is low, all up is high, half way is neutral - sort of. The hand brake lever will hold the pedal half way down giving neutral. For reverse put the left pedal half way down & press on the middle pedal. The right pedal is the service brake.
 
UPDATE


Got it to fire tonight on starting fluid. It does run but I'm not getting fuel in the carb. It's a mess too. Anyone know where to buy a rebuild kit for one of these or what it would cost to have it redone. I took it apart and cleaned it up but it's held together with gasket maker. No gasket. Also should there be a gasket between the carb and the manifold? I'm close. It sounded good.

I still have the magneto and alt disconnected. I figured I'd cross that bridge after getting it running.

Here is the carb.
 
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