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How much pedal free play should I have in my 1957 Thunderbird with the three speed manual transmission? Currently, I have zero free play at the pedal and I know that must be incorrect.

I purchased the drums from Larrys Thunderbird. The guys I dealt with were very professional and kind. They've already contacted their supplier and getting corrections in order. My issue was resolved this morning. I removed the hub from the offending drum and found a burr in one of the lug stud...

Replacing my front brake drums and ran into a rubbing issue with the right side. Noticed my new drum is missing a chamfer in the area where the drum fits over the backing plate flange. Anyone run into this??

The swage cutter is around $90 from Goodson Tools. I've seen an article where a guy used a hole saw. I'm going to replace my drums so I may try the hole saw route. Guess I'll have to press the new drums onto the hubs or....open the holes up just enough to slip fit over the studs.

Anyone have experience separating the front brake drum from the wheel hub? I need to replace both front drums and have come to understand a press is needed to separate the hub from the drum.

Anyone out there use their lift to pull the hardtop off of a T Bird? I need to come up with something. I've seen the rope and pulley system. Just thought I might rig up something with the lift arms to pull the top off and hold it temporarily while we go out *******.

Anyone out there have experience with the KYB shock set offered by several dealers? I'm ready to replace our Thunderbird shocks and don't want to make a mistake.

I need a recommendation on the best place to buy a new heater valve. Previous one suffered an internal rupture. It doesn't look to be really old so I'm wondering if it is one of low quality. Thanks for any suggestions!

My '57 Thunderbird has a set of Coker Classic radials. When my right front brake locked up, the wheel got very hot and fatally damaged the tire. I'll buy a new one to replace it but my question is, how reliable are these tires? I've read good and bad but wanted to hear some member experiences...

Just wanted to put this out there in the event someone else runs into a problem like I did. The master cylinder push rod end cap (see pic) should fit snugly into the bore of the master cylinder spool. My previous one was stuck and effectively did not allow my brake pedal to have any free play...

Local shop was successful in machining the drum with the hub in place. The i.d. measured right at 11" so it had never been turned before. I swept the drum braking area with a dial indicator before I took it to the machine shop and found it to have about .040" runout. It was definitely warped...

I am going to see if the local "old school" shop can turn the drum with the hub attached. If not, I'll get a replacement drum and press my old one apart. Thanks for all the advice! This forum is great!

Seems I have an out of round brake drum. Am I mistaken in thinking the front drums and hubs are one piece? I see offerings from vendors for front drums less the hubs but I believe my hubs/drums are one piece. Maybe the hubs are riveted to the drums? Referenced my shop manual but have not found...

The old tip was very tight in the old master cylinder. I pretty much destroyed it during removal. It is what looks like white nylon.

I found the plastic tip stuck inside the old master cylinder spool. Fitting the rod back into the old master cylinder, I found that the end of the rod slips into and out of the tip rather easily. Hopefully the new tip I've ordered will hold securely into the counter bore of the new master...

Ridges. At first I thought they were threads but nope. So the push rod end cap is what I need? Should it fit tightly into the receiving bore of the master cylinder spool? Should some type of adhesive be used to secure it onto the rod end? Thanks so much.

This is the push rod as it came out of my '57 master cylinder. I've seen a couple different ends on these. A flat end with what looks like an o-ring and a rounded end with the same o-ring. Which one is correct? The pic to the right is the rod as offered from NPD.

Anyone out there have success purchasing a downloadable shop manual? I prefer a pdf version but want to make sure the vendor is reputable.

I've seen both 2" wide and 1 3/4" wide. I'm going with what I removed. Brake cylinder bores are correct

I don't like doing drum brakes...really don't. In the middle of a complete brake rebuild on the '57 Thunderbird. Fronts done, moving to the rear I discover the shoes are 1 3/4" wide compared to the kit replacements 2 1/2" wide! Ordered the "complete brake rebuild kit" from Ecklers (Macs)...