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I’m looking for a usable 1940 ford pickup door latch for the drivers door. Anyone have one they want to part with. Thanks Mat

Been working on my 40 half ton pickup and ordered a new transmission cover and the back of the new cover has a tunnel where the driveline or something would go through. The issue is the floor in the truck is flat. I looks to be the original floor it has a 85hp flathead and a 4 speed which is...

42-47 for pickup be great shape, a little surface rust in the front. Comes with tailgate and some wood for the floor. Call or TXT mat @ 806-three four one-7949. Located in Vernal UT

I’m getting ready to put the cab on 1940 ford 1/2 ton. Any one have any tips or techniques they would recommend? Also should I treat the cab mounts since they are wood?

Does anyone know if the cab doors on the 46 Ford pickup are the same as a 40 Ford pickup? I need to replace one door and found a 46 pickup locally. TIA

1940 ford pickup sorry I left that out

Hey guys getting ready to put the cab on the finished chassis. Does anyone have any pointers to make this go easy as the cab was off when I bought it. Also what bolt size is used to secure the cab to the frame if anyone remembers this would be helpful. Thanks in advance and Ill post some...

I am trying to figure out how the fuel push rod goes back in to the motor. mine had an electric fuel pump and I am switching it back. Does the push rod get placed in before the intake manifold goes on or does it dropped in from the top after? My intake has this in it (see Pic) and I am not...

Did some measuring and it appears the coarse thread side is to long the are about 1 in. I have cleaned all the threads out with brushes and with old head stud with three grooves cut in it. Looks like ol Ron was right. Gary thanks for the info I’ll order the next set from you.

Im rebuilding a 1940 24 stud I was able to remove the old studs but I am having issues installing the new ones. The new studs do not seem to go in all the way to the shoulder. I spent the money in the arp kit from reds... anyone have any ideas on what to do?

no Mike I am not planning on it, I went with the standard ARP studs for the stock cast heads.

Thanks I will give that a try

It's a 59a block guessing the year of 1946, the heads are stock.

I am putting in new head studs and am looking for a schematic that tells the proper bolt length for the proper hole. Has any one come across one of these for a 24 stud motor or is this a trial and error type deal?

The brake drums came from c&g Ford and thats what they list for a 41 ford pickup. As for anchor bolts not is the right positions thats just where they ended up before i took the picture. I have turned those thing 360 degrees trying to get the drum to fit, I took the shoes is to get then shaved...

So the length of all shoes is the same, should there be a short one and a long one and what is the length of each. Thanks for all the help everyone.

yes i have the right adjustments the indentations on bottom bolts are facing each other, I think im gonna order new cams for them then retry it.

just did that, the surface of the drum measures right at 2 in and the shoes are 1.75 wide....I was able to get the drum on after i loosened the bottom brake shoe cam and took off the spring but still sits a little low, i think i may be in need of some new cams for the bottom.

I am having trouble getting my new brake drums on my pickup, the brake drum does not want to sit right when i put it over the brake shoes, it sits low and wont go over the backing plate. I have had the drums turned and shoes arched, and adjusted the the brake shoes at the bottom and the top...

ok thanks for the info everyone... i pulled the head off today and found that there was a round water hole in the center of the block, which was a mercury block identifier from what I have read an with the 99A stamp and 59 stamp i think it is a merc block from 46....Also found a remanufacturer's...