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Bob,that is exactly what I did.I bought the one piece because many people were negative about them but I talk to Snyders and they assured me that the fitment was much better than the ones in the past so I went with the two piece.

If you want lacquer TCP Global in California has it.They are knowledgeable of the ford colors.

I got the radiator out and the pulley nut came off easy and the pulley slid loose very easy.So now do I remove the two rear motor mount bolts then the front mount bolts?Looks like if I could remove the center spring hanger I’d have much more room but I’m not sure about doing that. Tom

In the Les Andrews book he makes it look very easy to change this pully.From everything I’ve read and the comments here it’s more entailed than what’s in the book.I hope I can get the pully shaft out without to much work.

The front of my crankshaft pully is completely broken off.I can get the nut off.Is there any way to get the remainder of the one piece pully shaft off without lifting the motor?I plan to replace it with a two piece pully.1930 sport coupe. Thanks Tom

Thank you for your information.Drove the car today.I adjusted the brakes from the Paul Shin video using the rods.I think I have it spot on.Car stops very well.

Ok, makes sense.Ill get the other rear done tomorrow and let you know how it works out.I have the fronts done.Both rear seals were blown so it’s a greasy job even after cleaning them before beginning. Thank for your quick reply.

Rear service brake

I’m replacing the rear brakes on my 1930 coupe and the rear brake cam is only moving the bottom shoe.When I move the the service arm the bottom shoe moves and the cam drops.I know everything is installed correctly and I cleaned everything.I’m stumped. Thanks in advance.

That worked perfectly on the second drop.Sure saved me time and another seal.

How is that done?

I installed a rear wheel seal in my 1930 coupe and it went to far and is touching the bearing housing.The bearing turns fine but the cage does not.Do I need to redo the seal.