Rear brake issue
- Thread starter Ltmoeller
- Start date
Gravity in action in this scenario. The “path of the least resistance” is another way of explaining. Push up on the bottom lining to make sure the cam is free to move upward. If it does, once the drum is on, the lower shoe will still have a tendency to move first, but, once the shoe hits the drum, the cam will be pushed up to expand the upper shoe. This is exactly the process of equalizing the shoe contact. Maybe the vertical orientation of the rear shoes was not the best placement, but it allowed for better access to the square brake adjuster and optimum use of both the service and e-brake levers. The lower shoe will probably always wear more than the upper shoe ………. Just not significantly faster than the upper shoe or worthy of concern.
nkaminar
Well-known member
I will second what Bob Bader said.
The Flat Head Ted Floater kit will allow the shoes to float and even out the shoe wear. For the stock brake system one shoe wears more because it is assisted by self actuating. With the Flat Head Ted Floater kit both shoes have the self actuating feature which reduce the pedal effort and improves braking.
In contrast with what a lot of instructions say, the front brakes do most of the braking and the brakes should be adjusted so that 60% of the braking effort is in the front and 40% in the back.
The Flat Head Ted Floater kit will allow the shoes to float and even out the shoe wear. For the stock brake system one shoe wears more because it is assisted by self actuating. With the Flat Head Ted Floater kit both shoes have the self actuating feature which reduce the pedal effort and improves braking.
In contrast with what a lot of instructions say, the front brakes do most of the braking and the brakes should be adjusted so that 60% of the braking effort is in the front and 40% in the back.
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Ok, makes sense.Ill get the other rear done tomorrow and let you know how it works out.I have the fronts done.Both rear seals were blown so it’s a greasy job even after cleaning them before beginning.
Thank for your quick reply.
Thank you for your information.Drove the car today.I adjusted the brakes from the Paul Shin video using the rods.I think I have it spot on.Car stops very well.
nkaminar
Well-known member
Paul Shinn posts here using his Barn name as PS. He has made a lot of how-to videos for the Model A community. Paul has been a great help for those who need help with their Model A's. See https://www.youtube.com/@ModelA.
Ltmoeller, The brakes will stop better if biased to the front, 60/40. This is in contrast to most of the instructions. Plus, once the rods are set to the proper length they should not be changed to adjust the brakes. The rods should be adjusted to provide the proper angle for the levers in the front and the proper length in back and then not touched until after 20,000 miles or so. All the pins should be kept lubricated.
Ltmoeller, The brakes will stop better if biased to the front, 60/40. This is in contrast to most of the instructions. Plus, once the rods are set to the proper length they should not be changed to adjust the brakes. The rods should be adjusted to provide the proper angle for the levers in the front and the proper length in back and then not touched until after 20,000 miles or so. All the pins should be kept lubricated.
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