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And thank you everyone for help, much appreciated !

Folks ... We have a winner and it is ... rheltzel ! It was the parking brake spring retaining clip, somehow it broke and a very small piece jammed inside the tube that the parking brake cable runs through. This acted as a "one way check" preventing the parking brake cable to return it's normal...

I will take the wheel cylinder apart this weekend to see what condition the inside is. Would a cleaning of the interior where the pucks and spring are fix this? Or is just better to buy a new wheel cylinder?

Yes, the pics are very similar to my rear passenger brake assembly. If the wheel cylinder is the cause of the dragging brakes, I will contact Richard Lacy about a replacement. The operation of the wheel cylinder seems very straight forward with how the seals and puck move. Could a broken...

I have never tested for a stuck piston in the wheel cylinder before, how is that done? I know there are 2 pistons with a spring in between, a seal and puck?

Had my 1938 for a long time, has juice brakes which never had an issue. About a month ago, rear passenger brake started dragging. Took it all apart, had a difficult time with getting the hub/drum off and readjusted the anchor points and wear cams back to zero. The drum/hub is difficult to put...

Same here in my '38, pull out to turn on, vacuum line runs across to the right side (Viewed sitting in the driver's seat), out behind the A pillar to behind the battery and down to a tube from the manifold

More the merrier! as a newbie myself, great place for info

Glad it worked out! Have fun!

I say paint some teeth on the opening and a couple of eyes above just to make it look Mean! Guess the owner want see where the magic happens? Was told to let out the evil spirits? Mis-informed on how to access the points? Oh, this list could go on and on...

Replacing my spark plugs and would like a few model/part number suggestions if possible. Has anyone had great success with a certain brand (NGK, Champion, ...) ? And one other thing, spark plug wires, better success with any brands? Thanks everyone!

On a cold start, my stock '38 Pickup, 3 pumps of the gas pedal, pull out the choke just a little and hit the starter button. It will crank 2 or 3 times and start. On a warm start, I just hit the starter button and it fires right up.

My 2 cents, Lacquer paints look great when done correctly but can chip a lot easier in my opinion. I used lacquer, wet sanded great, buffed out great but over time, little cracks appeared and chips missing.

I have noticed that if I clean all my grounding points, the lights or signals or even the engine runs better. I use a large or small wire brush depending on the bolt, nut or screw size. Be sure to check if the bulbs are 6V (Not 12V) on a 6V system. The resistance value on a 12V versus a 6V...

I found this site for color codes, it might be useful. Has lots of years and makes/models. http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcod...r=1938&rows=50

39portlander - what group is 38/39 P/U & Panel social group? I haven't seen that in the social group listings.

Circuit breakers are good for obvious reasons but funny, I still like looking at the blown fuse for some reason. And like they say, Keep it simple stupid (KISS).

Engine RPM, wheel sizes, transmission and rear gearing all have a direct effect on "Top Speed". Thanks so far everyone!

A length of wire runs through this loop, usually from the battery to the starter, the direction of current is important too because the meter is reading the direction of current, look at a wiring diagram for the year of gauges

So two out two doctors say around 50-55 MPH, I understand the the various factors involved with "Top Speed". I wanted a general consensus from a variety people who have trucks after 1936 and before 1940. I know what my truck can do speed-wise, around 50-55 is comfortable in it's stock...