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i kind of thought the same thing as D.P. but it sound like alot of work. so just order new ones from snyders.

There i fix my spelling, some times i get ahead of my self when i type

Does antone know of a way to repair the perch bushing hole. I press my perches out and knocked the bushings out, but on one of them the hole is just barily wore out of shape so that the bush just slides right thru. Or is just better to replace the perch. Thanks Nate...

man that carb se t up is slick. it well be interesting to see what you have up your sleve for the carb linkage though.

i think the car looks really sharp the way it is. id fix the upholstery and the top, then just drive it.

Got to love it when you pull the main caps and they look like this.

there is a tip on nwvs.org go to technical then high performance then click on engine hopup. at the bottom of that page there is a tip on how to make a o-ring seal for the pedal shafts. so if it is leaking around the reverse pedal u could maybe try that. hope this helps

I was wanting to know if anyone has used either style oil slinger. I know there is a diffrance in cost and i know alot of time you get what you pay for. Any feed back would be helpful. Thanks

thats right i forgot about the carb rod. i have only work on a pre1927 bock and it had the two piece vavle cover with the big window openin. i thought it was a hole in the block because it was'nt a clean hole. that a big relief. thanks to all who posted.

I was doing my tear down on my engine when i pulled the valve cover off, i notice there was a hole in between the middle main cap bolts. I know there is a some oil slung up in the cover. the motor is a 27 and it has a one piece cover. If its not supposed to be there is there any thing i could do...

well if u dant have the ruxtell in yet you could alwasy the the auxillary trans in the drive the truck and see how it does, then ethier leave it or put the rear end in.

im in the hunt for a engine/transmission, and a auxiliary trans. got anything of the sorts? if so how much?

if the cooling system and the timing is all good, might try inriching the carb alittle. i was always taght that a lean burn is a mean burn.

well frank pkny if u wont to keep it more peroid correct u could always go with a rocky montain set up. had a set on a speedster build i did any i was really happy with the system.

well i havent seen the new system but a buddy of mine had a system custom built with a set of rear calipers of a expedition, i think the rotors were specaly made. i have drove the car and it stops really well, nothing like the old trans brake.

thanks atch i would appreciate any info on it. i looked at a pinto head gasket & a T head gasket and they look really similiar.

i used kevlar in a build i did and after you get the adjusted in right they work really well. however they are a little pricey compared to the cotto n or the scandanavian. aslo no matter what u go with i highly suggest you install a trans sceen. it a great investment that could save you engine...

I was looking thru these rules for this speedster race and under there rules for cylinderheads it states that any period correct or aftermarket look alike is allowed. But your not allowed to run a modern head such as a pinto OHV head. I was wanting to now if anyone had ever heard of doing this...

well if the N.O.S bendix spring was a old one its posable that it could be alittle weak. but i feel that the bendix on the old T always sound alittle wierd. you could alsway put the new one from snyders and see if that makes a difference.

i ment to put langs is alittle cheaper them snyders, and i dont know how snyders does there shipping. if u find out that snyders shipping is cheaper then langs id just go with snyders, becuase im talk about a $0.25-$2.00 difference between the two parts companys.