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It's funny you say that. Just yesterday I took a piece of 2" seven foot exhaust pipe, cut it in half and flared the ends to replace the mufflers with straight pipe. That'll get me just on the other side of the crossmember so I can have the tailpipes made up

Well fellas I got them on and they really do quiet it down with the louvers opening towards the rear. I planned to try them facing forward but I'm just going to leave them as is for now. I appreciate everyone's input

I'm going to do a Sound test today as soon as my band clamps come in. I'm going to fire it up with just the headers and the head pipes, Which is what I'm running now. Then I'm going to throw the mufflers on with the pipes through the crossmember holes the way he has it labeled and see how much...

They're labeled correctly from what I'm learning. I'm just trying to find out how much quieter they are with the openings facing the motor

So he marked them with the louvers facing rearwards on yours as well? Just wanted to make sure it wasn't a slip through the cracks on my pair

Hey guys... For everybody running 17" (or any size really but I got the 17") Brockman steel packs are you facing the louver openings forward or rearward and how much does it affect the sound. He labeled the inlet on each muffler but it has the louvers facing rearward. Just not sure how much it's...

I really wanted to weld it solid but if the crossmembers necessary I guess I'll just do the clamps

Hey guys quick question. I'm doing my exhaust. I bought a hole saw for the driver side of the '49s crossmember but then I started thinking, I really don't want the pipe going through the holes, essentially making it impossible to remove the welded exhaust. Am I good to remove that crossmember...

Yes sir. Now to drive the hell out of it

Yeah man my bb is about 3/4" to 1" on the other side of the pointer at idle.

So say you're standing in front of the car. If the pointer is at about 11 o clock on the pulley. My dot is about at 11:30 or so. When I rev the motor it goes towards 11. The dot should start at 11 and go back towards 10:30, correct? In other words as the timing advances the dot would appear to...

You guys happen to know the diameter of the 8BA crank pulley?

So my timing is severely retarded. I'm not even sure how it runs and it seems to be pretty smooth

Now that I'm looking I see that haha. As far as what I'm thinking, am I correct or incorrect that with the timing Advanced the BB would be before the pointer and with the timing retarded it would be after the pointer every time the timing light lights up with the Clockwise engine rotation?

I didn't. I was thinking the vacuum advance didn't kick in until 800 rpm or so. Should I retry with it disconnected? Just to clarify for my own knowledge, the pulley mark should be before the pointer if it's advanced and after if it's retarded, or is it the opposite?

It fires right up, runs well, has 19.5" of vacuum, and accelerates as strong as I feel it should being my first flathead. Before I started the motor for the first time I lined the pointer and pulley mark up and the rotor was pointing right to #1. It fired up almost instantly after sitting for 4...

That's what I was thinking. That's the plan for sure

I appreciate the responses. I did set initial timing using the pointer and dot on the pulley.i saw the timing tape set.it looks like there's one for a 6" balancer and from what I've read the pulley is 6 1/8". Of course I'm not with the car this week to verify that measurement. I plan on using...

Fired up my '49 club coupe a couple days ago for the first time in the almost 4 years I've had it. It starts up super easy and doesn't overheat at all, even sitting still in the 95+ degree days we've been having. The problem is, it feels like it has no power. I want to check the timing at 2000...

I think that's the plan. Thanks man