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  1. M

    Stalls a stoplight

    For the last year the car ran fine with a professionally rebuilt Zenith carb. Just this week it has started stalling a stoplights unless I pull the throttle lever down or give a pump on the gas peddle as I come to a stop. I gather it is in the carb, but what should I look for?
  2. M

    No longer idling at stop

    My 1929 Fordor has been running very well since I put on a rebuilt carburetor (one of the ones sold on ebay). Once installed, I could slow down very fast for a stop light and it would maintain idle. Now when I am stopping at a stop light the engine dies...no idle. I would assume it is the...
  3. M

    Head Gasket Blown or Not

    If the head gasket shows signs of slight leaking (crusting) in several places after driving at higher speeds (45 mph+), is it considered blown? When does this low level leaking affect performance and need replacing?
  4. M

    Gas Gauge Float Replacement

    Is it possible to replace the gas gauge float through the port you put the gas in? I can see the float and it is not floating on top and usually shows tank is near zero when half full.
  5. M

    Acceleration Smooth but Deceleration Rough

    When my 1929 Model A is under load such as going up a hill or slight incline, the acceleration is very smooth. I typically drive on the open road at 45-50 mph and my engine is stock. However, when I am going down a hill and coasting in 3rd gear, the engine seems choppy, not smooth as with a...
  6. M

    Restoring paint

    My 1929 Model A Fordor has paint from over 50 years ago with little cracking or peeling. In general it is in pretty good shape, however, it shows its years. What is the best approach for restoring the shine and bringing out the best in an old paint job?
  7. M

    Head Removal Tip Needed

    I am going to remove the head on my standard '29 engine. It runs wells but the head gasket is leaking and want to replace the standard head with a 5.5 compression head for more power. The head hasn't been removed in probably 50 years. What is the best way to remove the head and extract the head...
  8. M

    Driving Speed

    I realize we all drive faster today then in the late 1920's but does anyone know how fast Models were originally driven? What speed was the Model A design to cruise at on a good road of the day I would assume the roads weren't very good so I would guess 20-30 mph was about average or was it higher?
  9. M

    Head Gasket and Other Repairs

    Since my head gasket is leaking, I am planning to replace the gasket this fall. I am also going to put on a leakless water pump and new exhaust and valve cover gaskets. Is it worth putting on a higher compresson head (say 5.2 to 1) and are there any other checks or repairs that should be done...
  10. M

    Running smooth above 35 mph

    My 1929 runs pretty smooth up to 35 mph and cruises well at 35 mph. It idles well too. Above 35 or so, it seems to get rougher but will easily go from 35-45. I usually don't drive faster than 45. I have a professionally rebuilt Zenith on it but engine hasn't been rebuilt in 30 years. Any...
  11. M

    Hi Compression Head

    How can you tell if you have a high compression head? On my 1929, which seems mostly an original engine it has a "23" stamped in it near the front top and also has a small diamond shape on front top of the water port. Also if it is a high compression head, it the timing set different from a...
  12. M

    Running Rich

    My 1929 Model A engine (hasn't been rebuilt in 20 yrs) runs very well up to 45 mph or so not ready to rebuild it. I have a new rebuilt carb Zenith 1 rebuilt by an expert. But it still runs rich, no popping or gas smells but even with the GAV almost closed (less than an 1/8 turn open) the plugs...
  13. M

    Plated surfaces - what to do

    I have a Model A Fordor which I believe is fairly original where all of the nickel plates surfaces (bumpers, headlights, door handles and fixtures, radiator shield, etc.) have seen better days and are worn off and/or slightly pitted. In the meantime, I have wire brushed them clean and painted...
  14. M

    Distributor Cam

    I recently bought a Model B distributor cam from Bratton's since it is the only one they sell to replace my Model A distributor cam. The Model A cam was probably ok but decided to upgrade all parts in distributor. I notice it is difficult to get the points (modern points) adjusted so the tab...
  15. M

    Worn Front Tire

    After putting on new tire all around, my passenger side front tire is almost worn bald after 1000 miles The drives side is worn more than the back but still has tread. What would cause this and how do you fix it?
  16. M

    Spark Plugs

    Was reading the Model A Instruction Book and on page 34 says that spark plugs should be set at 0.027". Why do all the new spark plug sellers say to set at 0.035"? Is 0.027" the better setting? Just curious.
  17. M

    Running Rich

    I noticed from my plugs that the engine is running rich, they are completely covered in light black soot (as shown in Les Andrews book). I am using the Autolite 3076 plugs, have GAV open 1/4 turn or less and timing and idle is set properly. I switched to Champion W18 plugs (supposed to be...
  18. M

    Points setting

    What is the effect on the engine performance, if any, if the points are set at the lower end recommended setting of 0.018 versus the higher end recommended setting of 0.022; assuming that the timing is set correctly for both settings? thanks
  19. M

    Front door alignment

    On my Fordor, the rear doors are straight and level but the front doors drop about 1/2 inch from front to rear. Any suggestions on bringing up the rear sag? Thanks
  20. M

    Modern Points Adjustment

    Seems like the original points had a single screw adjustment but the modern points have 2 adjustment screws to the bottom plate. What is the correct way to adjust the modern points? Do you use a feeler gauge in the points at 0.018", push tab to cam and tighten both screws? Thanks
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