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I know it's come up before. Does anyone have a chart for proper torques on engine bolts? What I really need is the torque for the timing cover bolts. Les Andrews left this one out of his chart on page 1-134. I'm figuring 30 or 40 lbs? these are 9/16 bolts.

I'm ready to reinstall my Snyder 6:1 head after a project, and I noticed there are two plugged or blocked holes in the head, small ones between #2 and #3. The very same holes are plugged or blocked in the block itself. Snyder's B gasket has the holes open. What gives? I read where one guy...

Ok, this sounds a little wierd, but we don't like to leave unfiltered oil in the Model A for very long, thus we have recommendations to change it after 500 miles or maybe 1000 miles. My assertion is that the oil is still good for an older vehicle which will filter out stuff relatively quickly...

Ok, not quite a Model A topic, but I was fortunate to have the opportunity to fly on a 1928 Ford Trimotor airliner, that is one of just eight still qualified to fly. There were only 199 made, but they have a rich history. Maybe there is one coming to your area. Here's a site you can check out to...

Ok, somebody on the forum knows what the problem is. My 1930 Town Sedan has always registered below speed. It reads 15 when doing 20, reads 38 when doing 45. (At low speeds, about 5 mph off; at higher speeds, about 7 mph off.) But that is not my main concern. Though the speedo is off a bit...

Is anybody familiar with this part? Yes, I know what it claims to be, but how does it work, and is it worthwhile? http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-NOS-FORD-MODEL-A-B-INTENSIFYING-HEADLIGHT-PLUG-SOCKET-F7-/282317202366?hash=item41bb6aa3be:g:s4oAAOSw-0xYUJpE&vxp=mtr

My starter brushes' wear are getting close to Les Andrew's recommended replacement. Two brushes are simply bolted to the starter's body (ground), but the two brushes on the ends of the field coils are soldered on. Now, I'm new at soldering, but I've tried a 70watt soldering iron and a thin...

My '30 TS Briggs, Bonnie, is all back together; engine rebuilt and now sporting a B-Cam and a 6.1 Snyder head, new stock valves & springs & new hardened exhaust valve seats. She has been resleaved back to std. I lightened the 65lb flywheel to 55lb for a little better spool-down of rpm without...

I got the engine back in the car. Runs great and breaking her in. The friend that helped me blew my question off when I asked him to put the brake pedal return spring in. He asked me if I had a problem why it was needed and that it wasn't a stock feature. I had no experience, so we put the...

Has anybody tried using EVAPORUST to clean out the cooling system? It seems to disolve rust very well on nuts, bolts, and parts. I've never seen chunks of stuff, just sediment from disolved rust, so I would expect the same in the cooling system... just drain out the sediment and flush the...

I removed one shim from my front main, and one from my rear main. They were foil-thin, and measured .001 each. All three mains are now .0015; I used assembly lube. The engine turns by hand, but with about 20 lbs of arm pressure. The rods are not connected yet. Is this too tight to start? I'd...

I'm ready to put my engine back together. All pistons, rings and valves, guides & springs are new, all that stuff weighs the same for each cylinder. I am reusing the babbitt rods, since all babbitt looks great, and within specs.The trouble is, the rods are not all the same weight. How far can...

I have my engine out and apart for some work. The bell housing and ****** are still in the car. My question is, can I install a Mitchell O/D from the front, or do I still need to disassemble the rear end? I will be getting help from my club if I decide to get one.

I just came from my Model A club meeting, and got two completely opposite opinions on buying a higher compression head. I was advised against it by two fellows, since I have a babbitt engine. They both independently told me that the higher forces would crystalize the babbitt and destroy it. Two...

The machine shop found that one of my cylinders is sleeved, and my water leak may be coming from it. He will let me know what he finds tomorrow when he removes the sleeve. Also, some *** bored out the stop at the bottom of the cylinder. Though my sleeve didn't slip, a new one could. Question...

I'm curious if there is a site that shows the traditional paint/primer colors of the different engine sections like block, manifolds, housings, ******, bolts, etc. Type of paint would help too. I'm sure the exhaust manifold needs a serious hi-temp paint. Any help appreciated.

I have my block torn down, and the babbitt looks great: plastigauge gave me readings of .0015 and .0020, and I am more than pleased, since I was expecting the worst. question: There is a ridge of babbitt sticking up from the flat block just a little; not as thick as the shims, so it never wore...

I found water in my oil, and had been getting hydrocarbons in my radiator. I just removed the head on my '30 Town Sedan. 1) Can anyone tell me for sure if this is a stock head? 2) If I decide to remove some material for higher compression, how much is TOO MUCH before valve clearance becomes...

Hi, T People! I am crossing lines here from the Model A side for a little advice. Since I have a possible head issue, where I might be getting a little hydrocarbon gas bubbling into my cooling system, I was getting a frothing of my antifreeze mix. This caused my radiator to lose liquid by...

First off, I'm pleading ignorance on door locks. My car has none (30 Town Sedan). Were cars really made with NO LOCKS? And What good are locks for the front and not the back handles? I've just never dealt with this, but don't feel safe leaving it unlocked while in a restaurant, etc. I trust MOST...