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My 1930 huckster steers very hard, but I have still put on 1000 miles this year. I just drove a friend's cabriolet with good steering, and what a difference ! It has been suggested that the tie rod/ drag link ends may be too tight, and having installed the EZ steer nylon parts I think it is...

I have read-probably on this forum--that it is possible to remove the distributor and cause the oil pump to drop into the oil pan. I plan to rebuild my dist, but do not wish to prompt an oil pump recovery project. There is no mention of this issue in the red book. What precautions should I take?

I have never driven my car at night, but just installed a pair of focused beam bulbs just to be prepared. When adjusting the aim it became apparent that my hi- and low beam switch positions are reversed. 4 o'clock is low and 5 o'clock is high. I have a new Bratton's wiring harness and turn...

I followed Paul Shinn's video about installing a cell phone charger using a unit from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D4YSHSH3?tag=atomicindus08-20. It is described as a 12V cigarette lighter and power outlet, and says it comes with a 10 amp fuse, but this is the one that came with it. As...

I sent a pm to Fred a couple weeks ago, but have not heard back. If he sees this can he get back to me. If he is unwell, I hope for speedy recovery.

I found several old threads on this subject and viewed a few videos, but the details of a successful (and short ) exercise escape me. The red book says to remove the e brake assembly, then remove the 4 large bolts to permit further disassembly on the bench. I tried that but cannot determine...

This drive shaft nut is torqued to 100 lbs. The red dot at 1 o'clock is the location of the hole for the cotter pin. There is no way that the nut can be turned another 1/12 of a turn to align the next notch on the castle nut with the hole. This means I must back off the nut 1/12 of a turn to...

Doing a winter-based examination and cleaning of brakes. The rollers move freely and there is no evidence of wear (these components are not original to the car), but I don't like the rust that is evident. It will be easy to wire brush them clean, but what can I apply as a rust deterrent that...

I just bought a Harbor Freight shop press to separate the pinion bearing from the pinion. The press came with 2 thick plates whose function and purpose seem pretty obvious, but I need plates about 1/8" thick to fit between the bearing and the pinion gear. A quick Google search shows no such...

In my quest to identify the source of the clutch chatter, I am down to this stage. With 12:00 set at zero, 3:00 is 0.010" out and 9:00 is 0.013" out. A couple YouTube videos reference inserting shims under the four wired bolts as necessary to correct the variation. After loosening the motor...

Due to serious clutch chatter I must disassemble to bare bones. When I removed the transmission (T5) I found this little bolt and lock/ keeper washer in the bottom of the bell next to the big cotter pin. I know I have seen this washer in the past, but I don't recall where. When reminded I can...

My torque tube is disassembled, and the drive shaft with pinion and bearings is on the bench. I have watched Tom Endy's differential video, but it is based on a completely disassembled differential. I only need to deal with the drive shaft. There is a good discussion in this thread...

Elsewhere in this forum Terry Burtz has asked for suggestions for a new project. The many suggestions received are great, but I have one that is too simple for Terry's fertile mind--brake rods with an integral turnbuckle. I just finished adjusting my brakes without a helper. Crawl under, pull...

A recent post on the Facebook MAFCA page showed a brake rod that has been bent to clear the front shock. Responses all agree that the shock is a later V8 shock, and the solution is to install the correct model A units or friction shocks from Speedway Motors. I have the same issue, but am not...

With 2 tooth sectors and worms unavailable I can at least buy the other parts that are available, clean up the box and reassemble per the book. I haven't studied the worm, but wear on the sector is clearly evident. How advisable--or not- is it to have a machine shop weld up the wear and...

Last winter I converted to a T5, and used a new Burtz lightened flywheel, new 9" clutch disc and Early V8 pressure plate. Everything went together fine, just as I expected, but I made no effort to avoid handling the components. I just saw Paul Shinn's latest video on clutch replacement, and he...

In my trip this afternoon one leg was 1 1/2 miles down a continuous 5-12% very crooked grade. With the spark advance at ~ max I kept the car in 4th (5 speed) to limit the braking, and experienced several backfires. Is there some tweaking of the advance that will eliminate, or minimize the...

After curing the starter problem, the car started right up, and I went for a test drive. Within 1/2 mile It was clear that the engine had very little power, and responded poorly to the throttle. Deal with timing first--Used the timing pin, located dead-on TDC with flashlight in the spark plug...

My starter has worked fine for the four years I have had my car. I recently bought a firewall insulator panel. During installation I made sure that all screws thru the firewall that were needed for ground were, in fact, well grounded. These were primarily the solenoid bolts, wiring harness...

The rotor gap is supposed to be 0.025". I have two distributor bodies and two rotors. In all combinations, the gap at the contact for plug 4 is pretty close, but all the others are much greater. The gap for contact no.1 is the greatest at 0.050"+. The engine starts and runs fine, but doesn't...