Improved brake rods

[Russell Reay]

Elsewhere in this forum Terry Burtz has asked for suggestions for a new project. The many suggestions received are great, but I have one that is too simple for Terry's fertile mind--brake rods with an integral turnbuckle. I just finished adjusting my brakes without a helper. Crawl under, pull clevis pin. turn clevis pin X times, replace pin, repeat for 3 more wheels, get up, install brake board, check all four wheels, note which ones need more adjustment, remove board, crawl under, repeat from this step many, many times noting that reinstallation of the clevis pin gets more difficult with each iteration. It would be so nice to be able to adjust a turnbuckle and test wheel tightness all from the same position. Rods would need to be 3/8" instead of 5/16" and perhaps of harder steel for stronger threads, but sign me up for the first set.

 

[Neil Wilson]

It would be so nice to be able to adjust a turnbuckle and test wheel tightness all from the same position. Rods would need to be 3/8" instead of 5/16" and perhaps of harder steel for stronger threads, but sign me up for the first set.

Or just do a hot rod with modern brakes?

 

[nkaminar]

Once the lengths of the brake rods is set the lengths should not be changed again for many many years. All adjustment should be done at the brake adjusting wedges, part number 2041. The brake rods are only adjusted to set the proper angles at the arms and this is only needed when the car is re assembled after bring renewed or when replacing the clevises or pins or other brake parts. Or when someone has mistakenly changed the lengths so that the angles at the arms are wrong.

 

[Y-Blockhead]

Once the lengths of the brake rods is set the lengths should not be changed again for many many years. All adjustment should be done at the brake adjusting wedges, part number 2041. The brake rods are only adjusted to set the proper angles at the arms and this is only needed when the car is re assembled after bring renewed or when replacing the clevises or pins or other brake parts. Or when someone has mistakenly changed the lengths so that the angles at the arms are wrong.

I agree, you should not be adjusting your brakes by adjusting the length of the brake rods.

 

[Keith True]

Right.The brakes should not be adjusted by the rods.Mine have always pretty much stayed OK after initial setup,with some minor tweaking over the years.I do pull the pins to double check after a few years.I pull the pin,hold the arm back,and pull the rod ahead.I put the pin back through,making sure it goes back with just a few ounces of resistance .Sometimes I have to screw the clevis on a half turn more,all those parts are still wearing and bedding in after all these years.There is no way to be accurate adjusting the brake rods with both pins still in place.If you are using the rods to adjust the brakes I think you'll find your brakes are severely out of kilter.And,most importantly,THROW THAT BOARD AWAY.Whoever came up with that idea should be paddled with their board.

 

[jb-ob]

What we need is an accurate method of adjusting Model A brakes.
'Boards' were sold new to Ford service shops in 1928. Before that there wasn't a mechanic who had experience adjusting four wheel brakes on a Ford. 15 million model T's were all two wheel rear brakes.

 

[P.S.]

..... And,most importantly,THROW THAT BOARD AWAY.Whoever came up with that idea should be paddled with their board.

Although I disagree with the "ONLY adjust the brakes at the wedges" crowd, if that works for you, then great!

Equalizing the brakes is what rod adjustment accomplishes. If you don't adjust the rods, then you'll never achieve equalized (and especially not optimized) braking. I did a video on it. Easy.

Everyone in my club who went to "juice brakes" was the "never adjust the rods" type of owner. Going to juice (hydraulic) brakes only accomplishes what they could have accomplished by adjusting the rods properly. Nothing else. Simple engineering!

 

[Y-Blockhead]

I have always followed Purdy Swoft's (RIP) advice when it comes to brake rod adjustment. Never had an issue. Especially pay attention to the plunger gap and the position of the front and cross shaft lever positions. I have seen a lot of people neglect to do this. I did not see this mentioned in the YouTube video either.

 

[Y-Blockhead]

Although I disagree with the "ONLY adjust the brakes at the wedges" crowd, if that works for you, then great!

I never said not to adjust the brake rods. What I said was don't adjust your brakes by adjusting the length of your brake rods. Two totally different things. See post #8 above.

 

[Bob Bidonde]

Brake rod lengths should be set to the factory lengths, and those lengths should not be changed to adjust the brakes. If the rods need to be changed to make the brakes work. then the brakes need restoration to properly fix the system or the Model "A" has a serious geometry problem somewhere. Changing the rod lengths is a bandaide for a fault.

 

[P.S.]

Brake rod lengths should be set to the factory lengths, and those lengths should not be changed to adjust the brakes. If the rods need to be changed to make the brakes work. then the brakes need restoration to properly fix the system or the Model "A" has a serious geometry problem somewhere. Changing the rod lengths is a bandaide for a fault.

I agree with some of that. My opinion is, if the car were still factory-fresh, then yes! However, these frames and axles and components are stretched, warped, changed out, etc. almost 100 years later, and the way to make the brakes all work the same again is to adjust the rods. Otherwise, why would Henry bother putting threads on them?

 

[alexiskai]

I agree with some of that. My opinion is, if the car were still factory-fresh, then yes! However, these frames and axles and components are stretched, warped, changed out, etc. almost 100 years later, and the way to make the brakes all work the same again is to adjust the rods. Otherwise, why would Henry bother putting threads on them?

Yeah, it's both unrealistic and unhelpful to say "the brake rods should be set to factory length, and if your frame turns out to be 1/8" off spec, the only acceptable solution is to remove the body and correct the frame geometry."

 

[P.S.]

Yeah, it's both unrealistic and unhelpful to say "the brake rods should be set to factory length, and if your frame turns out to be 1/8" off spec, the only acceptable solution is to remove the body and correct the frame geometry."

Yep. Spot-on.

 

[The Master Cylinder]

FWIW, Ford switched to solid brake rods for a while in mid '28.

 

[nkaminar]

Focusing in on the front brakes, here is my recommendation: First, the brakes should be in premo shape, including the wedges, rollers, roller pins, shoes, cast iron drums, etc. Loosen the retaining nuts on the clevises then remove the pins. Back off the adjustment wedges all the way. With the hubs, drums installed, move the arms towards the rear until all slack is taken out, but no more. If it is not close to 15 degrees, then check the wedges, replace the push rod that goes through the king pin, or install a shim (pill). The wedges should have 3 distinct sections and not show any wear. After you get the arms to 15 degrees with the slack taken up, screw in or out the clevises until the pins can slip in while holding the arms in the no slack position. Put the cotter keys back in the pins and bend the ends over.

Now, without changing the length of the rods, adjust the brakes in the normal way using the adjustment wedges. Take the car for the trial run and adjust the front brakes one click at a time if the car pulls to one side or the other.

I usually adjust the brakes with a front bias. I find the stopping distance is reduced by about 25%.

 

[Keith True]

All it takes is for somebody to have dropped the cross shaft on the floor,a tweak in the pedal somewhere,past 1/8 tweak in the frame,new springs,kingpin heads machined a little off,and a dozen other things for that measurement to be off.Ford certainly didn't abandon the one piece rods for no reason.I have never worked on an A that had nice working brakes that had all four rods the exact length.Fresh off the line maybe,but even Ford did away with them.But,once you get the rods set for your car,and things bed in,it would be a rare occasion to need to change them.

 

[WHN]

I have always followed Purdy Swoft's (RIP) advice when it comes to brake rod adjustment. Never had an issue. Especially pay attention to the plunger gap and the position of the front and cross shaft lever positions. I have seen a lot of people neglect to do this. I did not see this mentioned in the YouTube video either.

66 years of experience with these cars. My advice to all. Follow Purdy Swoft’s direction. It will make your life easier.

Purdy Swoft knew Model A’s. He is missed by many people.

 

[Hitman]

Just learn how to set and adjust brakes, and you'll find there's no need for a central, turnbuckle adjustment.

Brake adjustment is not hard, and certainly not unique to Model A's.

 

[Y-Blockhead]

What we need is an accurate method of adjusting Model A brakes.
'Boards' were sold new to Ford service shops in 1928. Before that there wasn't a mechanic who had experience adjusting four wheel brakes on a Ford. 15 million model T's were all two wheel rear brakes.

I didn't see any mention of 'Boards' in the Service Bulletins. It does mention "Do Not Turn Up Clevises on Pull Rods for Average Brake Adjustments" tho.

 

[Keith True]

That's because it was not a Ford tool.There was a big market for gadgets and snake oil,and plenty of folks jumped on the bandwagon inventing and selling the stuff,whether it was really useful or not.I have a few of those old trinkets around that were peddled off to garages and car owners years ago.I have plenty of J.C. Whitney gas saving devices around.If I used them all on one car with all the MPG savings I was promised I should be able to drive 10 miles and have gas flooding out the top of my tank.Most of the useless tools I have are solutions looking for problems.