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It's been too long since I delt with this kind of issue - couple weeks along I changed the oil and went to start it and all I got was a click - good battery and connection everywhere. Push it down the driveway and pop the clutch and started ok. No more issues until this morning and click again...

I'm tired of driving around without music - my '52 is radio delete - still 6 volt - I've read that some guys on here have newer radios with 12 volt batteries for power - can you share how you did this? And how you maintain power to the battery. Thanks

My '52 is a stockV8 single exhaust - would like it changed to duals. Won't go with headers and I don't think I want to replace the driver side exhaust manifold. So has anyone done a "Y" off the passenger side pipe and crossed over near the trany? I've seen a pix of this done and I already know...

Should I be worried about a little bit of oil in the coolant - if so what should I look for - there's no water in the oil pan.

I can get my 6 volt generator rebuilt or buy a alternator conversion kit from Mac's for nearly the same price - which way would you go. I don't really care about originality - just drivability in daytime and night time.

Is there a way to check what gauge wire you have when they are not marked?

I'm correcting things the PO did to this car - looks like he replaced the battery cables with 2 or 4 gauge - he replaced the positive weaved cable with a standard type also - so my question is does the positive go to the engine block like my '50 did (it is now), and is there a ground cable going...

What's the deal with thermostats today - second set installed and again one or both delay in opening (180) - pegs to hot - then opens. Once open they operate normal. This is only happening during the first trip out after sitting overnite. should I install fail safes?

Someone explain the need of a pressurized coolant system vs having a non pressurized system. And when and why did Ford go to a pressured coolant system. Is it practical to change from a non pressured system to a presurized system, and visa versa? What can go wrong if you switch from a pressured...

This is a original stock '52 Ford w/ FH V8 - AMP gauge jumps a little but stays on the "charging" side - is this normal - never saw this on my '50. If I should be concerned - is this a generator issue or regulator issue. FYI just installed new brushes in the generator and replaced both fan...

'52 works fine until tonite with lights on the amp gauge needle started jumping around then showed discharge for a while. What's up with this - possibilities?

I've got a '52 Ford w/ EAB motor has 36,000 miles on it - got it last Nov - going thru all the things that need checked out. Had a cooling issue - coolant lost and got hot - so I changed radiator cap, the thermostats, and the hoses - added a catch tank. All's good except the coolant level wants...

Can this work on driver side of a EAB?

I have read that 6.5 is stock for a 94, mine is marked 7.5 - I assume someone has rebuilt this at some point. So what would I notice in performance to switch to a 6.5 - anything much?

'52 Ford Customline EAB Only ID on the carburetor I can find is "ford" on passenger side. So that being said I'm concern on how to set the float, and how to buy parts for the carb. Looks like someone tried to rebuild it before - I bought a rebuild kit from CarQuest and now...

On a '52 Customline 239 "Ford" I'm not real good doing these kind of things so is there a simple way. Any instructions on here I can use? I do better following pictures. I know you guys will say it's not that difficult but I do these things by trial & error and I would rather not do that in this...

Got this car last Nov - only has 35,000 miles on it and it looks it too. Runs great, good oil pressure, doesn't vapor lock, runs cool ---- until now. It's building pressure and pushing coolant out into the overflow tank I installed. Has new cap, no leaks, both top hoses are hot, I can see...

If you were going to exchange your bumpers with new rechrome ones who would you do business with - '52 ford customline.

My '52 w/ 8AB - do you think an after market electric temp gauge would work using the stock sending unit - or should I back off the pain meds?

I read on here once - I think - an old flathead boy said never screw down the radiator cap down tight - run it with the cap loose - and have the fluid level up to the coils only. Thoughts.