Rebuilding carburetor

Blu Dice

Blu Dice

Senior Member
On a '52 Customline 239 "Ford" I'm not real good doing these kind of things so is there a simple way. Any instructions on here I can use? I do better following pictures. I know you guys will say it's not that difficult but I do these things by trial & error and I would rather not do that in this case. Any help and advise would be appreciated.
Thanks
 
I would send it to one of the people on this site who rebuilds them. Charley in NY comes to mind. I found out that in the long run it is cheaper and better. They forget more about these old carbs than we will ever know.
 
Blu,
Here's hoping things go well with your rebuild. In my opinion your best
chance for success is purchasing your rebuild kit from Daytona Parts in Florida.
Google 'rebuild my Ford 94 carb' and have at it. Never forget The Barn is always
here if you hit a snag.
Charlie ny
 
I just got my 50 Merc carb back from Daytona for a rebuild after the "buyer beware" dude that got band from this site screwed it up
I highly recommend Daytona!! So..so helpful Randy
 
Blu Dice, there are a lot of steps that go beyond replacing parts in a kit to get it right. Power valve operation, accel pump operation, vacuum and pressure ports clear. Lots of stuff that needs to be checked. I'd suggest sending it to Charlie ny for a rebuild. You can contact him by private message or let him know here on the forum and he'll (hopefully) contact you.

Lonnie
 
I just had my carb rebuilt j.c. Carburetors in brooklyn ny 2 days put it on my 40 turned on the ieg and stated right up for 175.00 ask for juan 1 718765 1621 good luck
 
The first 94 I rebuilt would hardly run. I took it apart and re-did everything being careful and since then, I have rebuilt several carburetors successfully. I find with 94's the biggest problem is defective or ill-fitting power valves. I check them to make sure they work, and after I install them in the carburetor, I leave the top off and fill the float bowl with gas and let it sit overnight. If the level of gas in the bowl is down significantly, I know I have a problem and get a new power valve or gasket or otherwise determine what is wrong. Later Holley power valves screw in fine, but don't fit right and leak.

Sometimes you have to fail to learn how to be a success.
 
Someone tell what the purpose of the power valve and how to check see if it's working correctly and how to tell if you have the correct one or not. Also I hear alot about throat level adjustments - what are the effects of performance?
 
The power valve opens up and enrichens the mixture during periods of low manifold vacuum. I suck on the open side, and put my tongue over the hole on the non-threaded side to make sure it holds vacuum. Some power valves are marked with their opening vacuum level, and some are not. If they're not marked, they are generally Ford and should be right. I believe that the power valve you want opens at 6.5 inches of vacuum, which is proper for a stock engine. Modified engines that produce less vacuum need a power valve with a lower opening vacuum. There are a number of sites on the internet that will show you how and where power valves are marked. Even if I have a known good power valve, I will run it through my "leakdown" test" before I use the carb.

I think you are referring to "float level", not "throat level". The float is that brass thingy in (what else) the float chamber on the front of the main carb body. It allows the needle valve to open allowing gas to flow into the float chamber. Because of the way carburetors work, they like to have the gas level at just the right height in the float chamber. Too high and the engine will run rich and even flood, too low and it will starve for fuel. All kits I have seen come with a cardboard "gauge" that allows you to check the float level. You can change the level by carefully bending the tang on the float to get the float level right. There are actually two components to float level, the actual level setting itself and float drop. The instructions that come with the kit will usually have recommended settings for both. If the float level itself is correct, I don't see where "float drop" makes a lot of difference, but I try to set it anyway.

One last thing; some Holley 94 rebuild kits come with what looks like two power valves. The second is called a "spark valve" and screws into the base of later model carburetors. Don't get them mixed up. Also, I would suggest getting the best quality kits you can (think Daytona Parts) because some of the cheaper kits come with the incorrect later power valve.

Good luck with your carb, I find it very satisfying to go through an old crusty carb and then putting it on my engine and see it purr.
 
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Well I just did a road test and she runs very good. The reason for this whole deal was from a break down Sunday. Stopped at a light and the motor stalled - wouldnt restart due to flooded carburetor - lol - I know all about not getting gas to these flatheads - my '50 would vapor lock at the drop of a coin. Gas was flowing out everywhere plus discovered it needed a cap, points, rotor, etc. I had not got around to it yet - too busy. So I replaced the gaskets, power valve, accelerator pump, and cleaned her up. So I'm calling it a day for now since it's running so good - next raining day I'll go a little farther now that I got some great info from you guys - thanks again to all who chimed in.
 
i have a holly carb cd with all the specs and data necessary to work on them. it is specific to 94's. can't remember where i got it, somewhere like ebay, but it has come in handy and if you want i could mail it to you so you can make a copy. i don't use it anymore, going with all 97's now.
 
This may also be of interest to you. I posted it a couple of days ago.

"Replacing worn, leaking throttle shafts is no big deal. I have done a couple of them. I got the oversize shafts from Mac's (in retrospect, there are probably better sources). I got a reamer to match off of Amazon. I removed the screws holding the throttle plates and the shafts themselves, reamed the carb base, and installed the oversize shafts.

The only caveat here is that the Mac's shafts have real cheezy arms on them. Luckily, they are held on by screws. I ground the "peened-over" end off of the original shafts, removed the original levers, and installed them on the Mac's shafts, using the Mac's screws and some red Loctite. Carbs run fine with no leaks."
 
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