Recent content by Skipstaxidermy

I converted my 1930 "A" to 12 volts about 9 months ago. Since then I cannot keep condensors in it. It burns them out in about 35 miles. The car runs flawlessly otherwise. The car has been gone over by at least three real old car mechanics as well as the electrical shop that did the conversion...

Where can I find a A & L burnout proof condensor? What is it? I converted my 1930 "A" to 12 volts and despite three good mechanics working on it, it burns up condensors in about 35 miles. Skip

Brattons sells brand new ones, for about $350. The first one they shipped me had big problems with the accelerator butterfly--it froze up in about 15 minutes. They replaced it immediately, but I haven't had time to put the 2nd new one on yet. Will let you know how that goes. Skip

I have an oval Speedometer. Rebuilt, out of the box, this is the third one we have put in. The first one quit at 350 miles, second one quit at 89 miles, We can't get this new (Rebuilt one) to register at all. If you turn the stem in your hand it does work. If you put a 16 penny nail in a drill...

I painted my hood about a month ago. I consider my car a "nice" driver. Here's what i did. I made a quickly put together saddle horse out of scrap wood just enough to place the hood on and maintain it in somewhat of a normal operating shape. Then I took the hood off, layed it down on a table...

I looked through the Snyder's catalog and sure enough they have listed several configurations of teeth. Assuming that I have a "Standard rear end", am I correct then that the lesser number of teeth would register faster speeds? I'll have to count the number of teeth on my gear. Skip

I have 1930 2-door sedan. Speedometer reads about 30-35 mph when I know I am going at least 10 miles per hour faster. It has never read over 35 mph. It is a new speedometer(rebuilt) and the second one I have installed in this dash. Both reacted the same. The catalogs only list one speedo gear...

Mitch, I don't understand. If we are shorting it out by screwing the ignition wire in too far-- and touching the body of the distributor, why then, if we eliminate the potential short by running the wire directly to the points--thus bypassing the potential short--Why would that be a problem...

You might change to a solenoid and a push button-- much more reliable! Skip

Why can't we just eliminate the contact with the lower plate and just cut off the pigtail and run a wire directly to the points? Skip

My 1930 leaked even after several repairs were attempted (previous to me). So I sent it to gas tank Renu and had them completely remove the soldered bracket and redo the tank. This is the second one they have done-- very satisfactorily I might add. I bought one of those 1931 brackets from...

I think that the problem is in the starter--needs to be rebuilt. You can get a new one from any of the supply houses or they can be easily rebuilt by an electrical shop. I have had several rebuilt for a number of antique cars by Certified Auto Electric in Bedford (Cleveland) Ohio tel...

What would be an expected/acceptable running temperature for my 1930 "A"? On a typical summer day-- 80-85 degrees--It quickly heats up to 150-160 degrees If I run it a few miles it climbs up to 180 and more though no boil over. If I take a 25 mile trip it seems to run at between 160-180--the...

I am Skip Schweitzer, Secretary of NOMAC (Northern Ohio Model "A" Club). We sponsor the swap meet. What questions can I answer? Contact me at Skipstaxidermy@yahoo.com or call me at 330-562-9801. The Medina County fairgrounds are located west of the town square on LaFayette Road (Rt 42), Medina...

The Model "A" swap meet that I think you are referring to is on Sunday January 13, 2013. It is at the Medina Fairgrounds and sponsored by the Northern Ohio Model "A" Club. It is most definitely loaded with Model "A" parts both new and used. I am the Secretary of that club-- NOMAC. The club is...