Recent content by lh

This 1930 Model A coupe came from my brother in law and he had the engine rebuilt in the 1990’s. It always had an oil leak. He said the rebuilder did not replace the camshaft gasket that fits between the back of the block and the flywheel housing. So about a year ago I pull the engine and...

I may have an vacuum leak. At startup there is a "whistle" for about a minute then it stops. I may spray some starting fluid where I think the leak is located and see if the rpm's increase.

I reinstalled the old oil pump, with crack, and pan today. The timing was severely retarded. It runs much better. More pick up and go. I could not find a replacement oil pump, Snyders, Macs or Sacramento Vintage Ford. I will drive slow until I can replace it.

The rod caps are facing toward the cam so that is OK. I am using 10-30 weight oil. I reinstalled the old oil pump, with crack, and pan today. The timing was severely retarded. It runs much better. More pick up and go. I could not fine a replacement oil pump, Snyders, Macs or Sacramento...

I set the timing which was retarded causing it to heating up. Much more power and get up and go. Now the idle is too fast. The linkage is not causing the problem. The fast idle 'cam' adjustment screw is loose. It appears that there is a main 'jet' adjusting screw but I did not see a idle...

This is a 1930 and not many miles on a rebuilt engine. It had a knock noise for about 15 seconds at start up then went away. I pulled the oil pan off and there was no filings or metal in the pan, nice and clean. I checked one of the rod bearing that had the most "play" and plastigage was...

Today I removed the pan. Took the rod that had the most "play" and plastiguaged the bearing and it was .0015". That is right on specifications. There are two shims on each side of the rod caps. The engine has new pistons and the rods look new also so the person who did the work appears to have...

This Model A was restored by my brother in law. I don't think there is 100 miles on the restored engine. There is a knock for about 15 seconds when starting the engine then it goes away. It sounds like a loose bearing. Other wise the engine sounds fine. So my next step is to remove the pan...

Thanks for the comments and suggestions. I made a clamp from two 1" thick steel plates and bored a hole to fit the shaft. The 20 ton press worked. The "play" in the steering wheel is only 1/2 inch rather than 8. The car is now drivable.

I am in the process of rebuilding this steering gear box with new parts. I am having a very difficult time installing the new worm on the steering shaft. I am following procedures in a book first published in the 1950's, good help. I made a special driving tool as described in the book also...