Recent content by Jim16A1

There is a Williams 6pt 13/32” wrench on eBay right now for $11 plus shipping. I have the same wrench. It fits nicely.

Hey Zach! It’s Jim, we met at Clark’s place (999 build maybe? Something Latimore related for sure) years ago when, just like you, I was a young guy in love with old Fords and early hot rods. I’m 43 now and finally have that ‘29 Roadster I’ve always wanted, albeit stock and not hotrodded. A few...

I’m not a big fan scrapping things that are still useful. Why wouldn’t you list it for sale locally for a few dollars? You’ll make a couple dollars over scrap price and somebody who finds it useful will come pick it up, so you won’t have to drive it to the scrapyard.

You can check diodes for continuity/resistance. You should have continuity/close to zero ohms in one direction and infinite ohms the other direction. That said, have you tried wiring the bulbs directly to your battery? Hold the socket part of the bulb against the frame/ground terminal and...

The DeWalt grease gun is a game changer! If you’re using a different line of tools, check and see if they offer a battery powered grease gun. Don’t buy a different brand of battery if you don’t need to.

I recall seeing a tech article somewhere that showed how to modify a socket that fit inside of the crank nut by drilling through the socket sideways and adding a long roll pin. Basically, you’re emulating the tip of the hand crank.

Snyder’s has received a lot of my money from when I got my first Model A this past August. Mike’s, Bratton’s, and Smith & Jones got a few orders as well, but I’d say that 90% of my catalog parts came from Snyder’s.

Replace the slippery rubber pads with this stuff and you never have to worry about the glass falling out of your crappy repro wind wing brackets. I also use it on my headlight bar to keep my license plate brackets from sliding around and chipping the paint. Pretty much every larger hardware...

My ‘29 roadster does the same thing. I’m guessing that it has crappy 80’s/90’s repro hardware. I took three basic hardware store washers that were just barely undersized and opened them up enough with a drill bit and a file until they would just slide over the clinch fasteners and hold solid...

Re: A Won’t Start and Stumped How old is the gasoline in your tank? I’d also recommend testing for spark with starting fluid.

Excellent recommendation! Project Farm is one of the best channels on YouTube.

Did you hook it directly to the battery? Maybe you have some corroded/weak connections that are making the horn see a big voltage drop.

That looks like heat signature to me. Also, not that I was ever good at all with a TIG, but that looks kind of rough. It might even be a MIG weld. Anyways, that heat discoloration should polish out.

Go to a sporting goods store and get a steel bore brush or three, as well as some bore solvent and a rifle length cleaning rod. Chuck it up in a drill if you have to. That should knock most of the crud loose.

I put a clothespin on my fuel line, as is tradition. Does it actually help? Probably not, but I leave it there as a conversation piece. Any time an old timer sees it, they always comment about how it stops vapor lock.