Recent content by dave in australia

In the Australian judging standards, they list for the 1930 models, standard phaeton, standard roadster, sport phaeton, sport roadster, town sedan, fordor sedan and sport coupe as the body styles listed. Here is a copy including the colour combinations.

The local car museum, Gippsland Vehicle Collection, holds a coffee and cars get together once a month. After the latest get together, I dropped in to look at the latest display. The display changes every four months with different themes. This one was local legends. Fordbarn is not normally...

Not much has changed since I drove across and back a few times in the late eighties.

Yesterday, moving some spare valance panels, I believe USA calls them splash aprons, I noticed production assembly marks on the underside of one. This is from my dads first model A, a 1929 Australian made tourer. These have never been restored, just dis-assembled in the late 1960's. One is...

Enjoy the trip.

A fordor with a 28-29 cowl and tudor/coupe front door post. The 28-29 fordors have a different cowl and door post.

That was the reasoning behind my question. Just finding out if it is unique to Australia, or are other countries struggling as well with organising and numbers etc.

Are attendance numbers at USA national meets increasing, remaining sort of constant, or declining?

I like the colour combo on the outside.

I've run W20's since I've had A's, 40+ years. Never had a problem. From worn out stock engines to my current engine of counter weighted crank, stipe 330 cam and snyder 5.5 head.

They look like original shocks.

I have used baking soda in my electrolytic cleaner for years. It will go beyond line of sight, but you have to leave it run for a few days. It won't do the fuel passages of a zenith, but will do the throat and larger air path. I've done brake backing plates and everywhere was cleaned, including...

I've been doing Model A stuff for over 40 years, I still wonder some times.

Yes, did that, and had a similar result. Disassembled the halves and tried each half in the house. They ran true. I ran a mic over each half on the face where the two halves join and where the crown wheel sits. The faces were parallel within .001". Then found the culprit, a piece of swarf was...

This explains why I had a tight spot after assembling the diff in my roadster. It was the only thig I didn't measure before assembly. Now to go through my collection of spares to get one that runs true. I don't know how something could get this far out of true. There are assembly marks from...